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 1 
 on: Today at 23:05:46 
Started by diizzyy - Last post by diizzyy
Unfortunately I have no idea how to fix this except doing a RMA so I figured I'd try asking here.

Here goes:

PSU: Seasonic S12II 430W - https://seasonic.com/product/s12ii-430/
RAM: (1) Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4 PC19200/2400MHz CL16 8GB (BLS8G4D240FSA) - http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/bls8g4d240fsa
CPU: Intel Core i3 7320 - https://ark.intel.com/products/97484/Intel-Core-i3-7320-Processor-4M-Cache-4_10-GHz

So, to be clear this build booted fine a couple of times until I updated BIOS from 2.0 to 2.2 using the BIOS flash utility.

After rebooting no image, Debug CPU and RAM cycles indefinitely.
I've tried swapping the ram around in all DIMMs, reseated the CPU fan, same issue.

I've ripped out everything except the bare essentials (I had a GTX 1060 and 2 SATA HDDs installed from the beginning, these were all disconnected during testing) and given that this started to occur after I updated the BIOS I'm very sure it's related to that. Any suggestions before I return the board under warranty claim?
I did even try to make it cycle for 10 minutes without any issues which seems to have worked for some.

I've also compared the checksum on two different computers and it adds up correctly.

 2 
 on: Today at 22:55:14 
Started by fangd2151 - Last post by david
I've had a GE62 for a while now, and would like to do a thorough cleaning to remove the dust build up by the air intake and exhaust fans.

I heard mixed messages regarding vacuuming.  Is it a safe way to clean laptops?

What are some good ways to clean MSI laptops?  How do you do your cleaning?  What cleaning products do you use?

Thanks in advance.

Hi fangd2151,

Yes, it is safe to clean your own notebook if you take basic precautions. There are two primary precautions: (A) Avoid static electrical discharge. You need to wear a grounding strap connected to a metal part of your notebook chassis to prevent this. If not, you can damage sensitive components inside it. (B) Always secure a fan so it cannot spin before either blowing air on it or vacuuming dust from it. If you allow the fan to spin freely, either compressed air or the suction of a vacuum can cause it to spin very fast and generate an electric current that backfeeds into the motherboard and can damage components.

Here are the steps I usually take:

1 - Turn off the notebook, disconnect it from AC power and disconnect all external cables.
2 - Gently vacuum the exterior of the notebook case, including all air intake and output vents, and keyboard.
3 - Remove the notebook's bottom cover and connect your wrist grounding strap to a metal component that connects the chassis (for my notebook, this the optical drive case).
4 - Gently vacuum all dust from the bottom cover then lay it aside.
5 - Gently vacuum all lose dust from the interior of the notebook without pointing the vacuum nozzle directly at any fans. Be careful not to touch the end of the vacuum to any part of the notebook.
6 - Using a can of compressed air, blow the dust out of the heat diffusers (the devices that look like little radiators that the fans blow/draw air through). Be careful not to spin the fans.
7 - Insert a small plastic stick or screwdriver between the blades of a fan so it cannot spin and use the compressed air to blow dust out of the fan. You may need to reposition the fan blades several times in order to get them all clean. Repeat for each fan.
8 - Carefully go over the notebook interior one more time with the vacuum, including all heat diffusers.
9 - Disconnect your wrist grounding strap and install the notebook's bottom cover.

Tips: Most any can of compressed air that says it is safe with electronic components will work. I avoid an air compressor because they must have an excellent moisture trap in good working condition or you'll blow water into your notebook. I don't want to risk getting water in the notebook and, if the compressor is not mine, I don't trust that it's been properly maintained. Cans of air are safer and I've used cans of "Office Depot Cleaning Duster" as well as cans of "Blow Off Duster". I usually use two cans because they get cold really fast and I'll alternate between them so each one has time to warm before the next use. That way you avoid condensation and moisture from them. Never shake the cans and always use them in an upright position or you may blow the liquid propellant into your notebook. If you do blow any kind of liquid into your notebook, allow it to fully dry before turning on your notebook. Before I use the compressed air, I position the vacumm nozzle on the opposite side so the dust that I blow out will be sucked into it. Otherwise, you will simply redistribute the dust.

You can check with MSI or your MSI rep, but most countries where MSI notebooks are sold have consumer protection laws that allow owners to open their notebooks to clean them without voiding the warranty AS LONG AS you take reasonable precautions as described above.

Kind regards, David

 3 
 on: Today at 22:44:04 
Started by dbaechtel - Last post by dbaechtel
Is there an API for programatically making changes to the LED colors and pattern?

 4 
 on: Today at 22:22:45 
Started by RemusM - Last post by lilsaf44
Updated bios, xmp2 profile and it shows 2993mhz, what's weird is I get 3 long beeps, then followed by another 3 and then boots up?

 5 
 on: Today at 22:19:29 
Started by smaran.kapoor - Last post by david
I own a GE72MVR 7RG Apache Pro laptop. I am facing a problem in terms of memory space in my SSD drive.
So, the thing is my my laptop's C drive, which is the ssd drive is about to be full because I had restored some of the steam games onto this laptop from my previous crappy laptop. Whereas, my D drive which is a 1TB HDD drive shows 914GB OF 914GB free, but I am confused whether to use it or not as I was told by the seller of this laptop that D drive is for recovery and shouldn't be messed with. So, is it ok if I use the D drive for installing games? Also, if let's say D drive can be used for installing new games, does replacing the HDD with SSD drive worth it? What difference does it make in comparison with HDD? Also, I saw a few videos on youtube regarding the process of replacing the 1TB HDD with 500MB SSD and it seems to me that one just needs to put the SSD into the SATA slot and nothing more, no cloning is needed for D drive if I am right? Moreover, ultimately I was thinking of replacing the 250GB SSD also in my laptop but even after hours of watching youtube videos and reading forums I haven't come across an authoritative procedure of installing a new SSD and replacing the old one. So, if you guys could guide me here by giving me any links or advice I would be very grateful to you. Looking forward to your replies.

Hi smaran.kapoor,

This is a volunteer user-to-user forum so don't expect to find how-to guides here. There is plenty of information elsewhere on the internet to help you do what you want to do. What I can do here is provide a few guidelines and dispel some false information that you received.

First, the idea that you cannot use your HD to install games or that installing games on it will break your ability to "recover" your notebook is patently false. Without being present to hear what your seller said to you, it's impossible to know if there is just a misunderstanding. Here's the truth: MSI (like most computer manufacturers) no longer provide Windows installation media. Instead, they create one or more factory restore partitions where the files are stored which enable you to restore your notebook software (Windows and any apps provided by MSI) to its factory new condition. When the notebook includes both an SSD and a HD, MSI typically installs Windows on the SSD so the notebook will boot fast and locates the bulk of the factory restore files on the HD so they don't take up valuable space on the SSD. You can see these factory restore partitions with the Windows Disk Manager but they will not appear in the Windows File Explorer because they are hidden.

What this means is this: If you want to be able to do a factory restore in the future (for example: your notebook is so messed up that you need to start over or you want to sell the notebook to someone else) then you need to preserve the hidden factory restore partitions that may be located partly on the SSD and mostly on the HD. There are two ways to do this. One way is to preserve the factory restore partitions where MSI created them on the SSD and HD. But this is a bad way because, if your SSD or HD fails, you lose them. A second and better way is to create external factory restore media as soon as you receive your new notebook. This can be created on a USB flash drive or a writable DVD disc. Once you've created external factory restore media, you no longer need the factory restore partitions on your SSD and HD and you can delete them all and reclaim their storage space.

Most of your HD is available for you to use any way you want. You can install your old games, new games, whatever. As long as you don't delete the hidden factory restore partition(s), you shouldn't have a problem. And, if you've created external factory restore media, you can even delete the factory restore partitions from your HD as described above.

Personally, I hate factory restores because manufacturers like MSI stuff bloatware and other undesirable stuff in them. This can include trial versions of antivirus/antispyware/antimalware software which can be very difficult to fully remove. I have my own standards for security and I don't want MSI to provide anything. So I buy my own license for Windows for each new computer and do a clean install of Windows and the MSI drivers so my computers have only what I want and are optimized the way I want. So I never keep the factory restore partitions. I wipe them as soon as I've made external factory restore media in case I ever decide to sell the computer during its operational life (which is extremely rare---I tend to use every computer until it's ready for recycling).

Second, the only difference you should see between installing a game on your SSD vs your HD is that the game will load a little slower from the HD. But, once the game is up and running, you should not notice any difference (unless the game must make heavy use of the drive during the game). However, there are other reasons to replace the HD with an SSD. My GT80 2QE came with a 1 TB HD also and I replaced it with a 2 TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5-inch SSD (they are now available with storage capacities up to 4 TB!!!). Besides the obvious increase in storage capacity, it is much faster, it is totally quiet, it generates less heat and consumes less power.

If you decide to replace your HD with an SSD and you do not create external factory restore media and you want to be able to do a factory restore in the future, then you will need to clone the hidden factory restore partitions on the HD to the new 2.5-inch SSD. But you can avoid this if you create external factory restore media. If you search MSI's FAQs you should find the instructions.

Third, replacing your existing SSD with a larger one is definitely an important upgrade in my book. 250 GB is just too small. Depending on the type of SSD you are using now (and your budget), you should be able to replace it with either a 1 TB or a 2 TB model. This should give you lots of storage without touching your HD. But I would replace the HD too---that way all of your storage will be solid state. To replace your main SSD, you'll need to clone it to the new SSD so you don't have to reinstall Windows. If you buy a Samsung SSD, they provide the software to do this at no charge. But all it will clone are your OS partitions---I don't think it will clone any factory restore partitions if one or more are located on your SSD also. Again, the best solution is to make external factory restore media so you no longer need any factory restore files or partitions on your internal storage devices (SSD or HD).

However, if you are interesting in doing a clean install of Windows like me so you can begin with a lean clean notebook, then you'll need to purchase a Windows license and media. And it is not a task for the faint-hearted because Win 10 is a nightmare owing to its pernicious auto-updater than cannot be turned off. Before you do a clean install of Windows, download all of the MSI drivers and utility programs for your model notebook---do not use files for a different model. Store them someplace safe like an external flash drive so you'll be able to access them later. Then do the clean install of Windows and allow it to authenticate with the Microsoft server over the internet. Then disconnect your notebook from the internet and install the MSI drivers in the exact sequence they prescribe (the sequence is listed above the driver list on the download page---it is NOT the order that the driver installer files are listed on the page). Then install the MSI utility programs beginning with the SCM (System Control Manager). Then "hide" all of the MSI drivers from Win 10's auto-updater as described in the MSI FAQ here. This will prevent the Win 10 auto-updater from replacing the MSI drivers with newer generic versions that will "break" your notebook. After the MSI drivers are safely hidden from the Win 10 auto-updater, you can reconnect to the internet and allow Win 10 to install its own updates.

That should be enough information to give you an overview and help you avoid some of the most common pitfalls. In my experience, MSI gaming notebooks are significantly more difficult to maintain and update than other notebooks---especially non-gaming notebooks. If you are new to MSI gaming notebooks, do not take anything for granted. You may be used to updating firmware like the system BIOS with other notebooks but it can cause trouble with an MSI gaming notebook and the procedure is more complicated. To make matters worse, MSI does a poor job of documenting this stuff. Basically, if it isn't broken, don't try to fix it (or update it) unless you have a very strong reason to do so. One exception is the NVidia video driver---it is usually okay to keep it up-to-date with the "game ready" releases from NVidia. NVidia's GeForce Experience software can handle this for you.

Kind regards, David

 6 
 on: Today at 22:04:40 
Started by tendaiamos - Last post by tendaiamos
Hi,

So I bought the board and researching the memory support could have sworn the ram I bought was there, come four months later and looking to add another stick of ram lo and behold the model I'm using is not there.

How important is it that the ram you can use on the board needs to be on support list?

Also this board doesn't seem to support led ram which is weird, if I bought led does it mean it won't work?

My computer works fine with the ram I'm using at the moment, although it's now not on the official support list.

Thanks

Tendai

 7 
 on: Today at 21:58:21 
Started by coneslayer - Last post by coneslayer
A defect in the Intel Skylake and Kaby Lake processors was recently announced on the Debian Linux mailing list, stating that there's a problem with hyperthreading that could affect stability (not just on Linux). Intel has issued erratum KBL095 for Kaby Lake confirming the issue, stating that "it is possible for the BIOS to contain a workaround for this erratum." Does MSI plan to issue a BIOS update for Z270 motherboards to address this problem? What is the timetable for such an update?

 8 
 on: Today at 21:52:43 
Started by dylandebie - Last post by husam.banno
I have same problem but in different brand the problem is from the Gtx1060 yes
but on gaming I never had the freeze screen.
the only thing you can do is to wait for an update ..

 9 
 on: Today at 21:26:03 
Started by neverfailmore - Last post by josefrancisco.saez
Try to overclock with stock voltage and the system will not boot.
The memory seems more stable but cpu very bad. Ryzen 1700.

 10 
 on: Today at 21:19:04 
Started by pjbenes - Last post by pjbenes
ahoj,

Mám notebook GS63VR 6RF cca pu Roku.
Až Dělať minulého týdne Jsem Si nemohl na nic stěžovat.
Pri spuštění hry Entry. Pult strike- Globální ofenzívu která s y Není jakkoliv náročná SE cca 5 minutách sníží chlazení na minimum se Teplota CPU je kolem 88-90%.
Je to PRI jakékoliv LZZ. Bez spuštění hry Bezi chlazené normálně. I Jsem snížil Výkon procesoru na 90%, Výsledek Není o moc Lepší.
po 15 minutách na notebooků právě Právě neudržíte RUKU hra JE nehratelná kvůli sekání ve LZZ.
Nejsem zadny Počítačový expert, prostě přijdu domů po praci Jako kamarády vypnu u CSKA :-) 

Díky moc chlapi za jakoukoliv radu :-)
Honza

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