B460M Bazooka Not Recognizing front 3.0 USB after Win 10 to 11 upgrade

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Jun 1, 2023
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I upgraded my roommate's PC from Win 10 to 11 and though all ports used to work fine, the front 3.0 port doesn't work at all and the remaining ports, be in 3 or 2.0 don't go anywhere near as fast as they should. I can't tell you how many different solutions I've tried but nothing helps. Nothing at all has changed other than going from Win 10 to Win 11. Please help, this is infuriating.
 
Have you tried updating the drivers at all? Getting them from Intel, etc? Chipset mainly would be the one I would be worried about in regards to this.
 
First, you can try updating the BIOS to the newest version from https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B460M-BAZOOKA/support

But it might have to do with the drivers or Windows configuration. Reinstall the Intel chipset drivers. Press Win+X and check the device manager for any problems. Check programs and features if there are any old drivers installed, and either uninstall or update them.
 
First, you can try updating the BIOS to the newest version from https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B460M-BAZOOKA/support

But it might have to do with the drivers or Windows configuration. Reinstall the Intel chipset drivers. Press Win+X and check the device manager for any problems. Check programs and features if there are any old drivers installed, and either uninstall or update them.
Hi. I already upgraded the BIOS and chipset drivers. I do see that if in device manager I show hidden devices, two of my Samsung phone USB drivers (to transfer from phone to PC/back etc) are greyed out, there's also two "unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed) listings, one USB Mass Storage greyed out and one XBox 360 Controller for Windows greyed out. I should mention that whether it's my phone or the XBox controller, though the front USB 3 that's "dead" typically doesn't do anything AT ALL once in a blue moon when I try it again it'll show a popup in windows as device last malfunctioned/unrecognized or something along those lines. I know that nothing was knocked loose inside, all is still hooked up properly, etc. It must not be a hardware issue but something software/driver etc related.
 
I checked the manual, this board uses no extra chips for its 6+6 USB ports, they all come from the B460 chipset. So whatever is happening, if you already have the latest BIOS and maybe even tried a Clear CMOS, it's probably just down to something in Windows being messed up. The easiest way to fix it is to back up the user data and do a fresh install of Win11.

Were there ever any similar problems in Win10? Then you could list all your hardware, everything including PSU and USB devices, and we could take a look if something is the matter there (or post that list anyway, if you want). But if it only started to happen after the upgrade, it's usually faster and less stressful in the end to just bite the bullet and do that fresh install. Because it could be any number of things that are wrong here.
 
I checked the manual, this board uses no extra chips for its 6+6 USB ports, they all come from the B460 chipset. So whatever is happening, if you already have the latest BIOS and maybe even tried a Clear CMOS, it's probably just down to something in Windows being messed up. The easiest way to fix it is to back up the user data and do a fresh install of Win11.

Were there ever any similar problems in Win10? Then you could list all your hardware, everything including PSU and USB devices, and we could take a look if something is the matter there (or post that list anyway, if you want). But if it only started to happen after the upgrade, it's usually faster and less stressful in the end to just bite the bullet and do that fresh install. Because it could be any number of things that are wrong here.
There were never any problems when it was Win 10. This actually is a fresh install. I meant upgrade as in a never version.
 
Don't use an old Windows installation DVD you might already have, always let the Media Creation Tool create an up-to-date one on a USB stick. It's vital not to use an outdated installation media for Windows, otherwise some drivers will refuse to install.
 
Don't use an old Windows installation DVD you might already have, always let the Media Creation Tool create an up-to-date one on a USB stick. It's vital not to use an outdated installation media for Windows, otherwise some drivers will refuse to install.
He just bought it a couple weeks ago though.
 
Doesn't matter, it's probably still outdated. Those DVDs are not constantly updated, and it might have been sitting on a shelf for months. Plus, the valuable thing is the license key, not the DVD, the DVD can be put away.

What you want is the newest Media Creation Tool preparing a USB stick with the latest build of Win11 22H2 on it. I highly advise you to install using that and see if the issues are solved. Leave the BIOS mainly on defaults (not sure what you tried there), you can also do a Clear CMOS before and then just enable XMP for the RAM, and install Windows pressing F11 for the boot menu.
 
Doesn't matter, it's probably still outdated. Those DVDs are not constantly updated, and it might have been sitting on a shelf for months. Plus, the valuable thing is the license key, not the DVD, the DVD can be put away.

What you want is the newest Media Creation Tool preparing a USB stick with the latest build of Win11 22H2 on it. I highly advise you to install using that and see if the issues are solved. Leave the BIOS mainly on defaults (not sure what you tried there), you can also do a Clear CMOS before and then just enable XMP for the RAM, and install Windows pressing F11 for the boot menu.
Hi again. I feel like an idiot. I checked the mobo connector and it's clearly not in good condition. After trying my best to position it better than it was the front 3.2 is now working, albeit even slower than you'd expect from a 2.0. I also noticed the front 2.0 is split off of the 3.2 connector, which would explain why even the front 2.0 goes slower than the rear ports. There's nothing I can do short of getting a new mobo and that's just not feasible in my financial position. It all makes sense now, since the connector (not the cord, rather the port on the mobo) is so wonky it's not possible to secure the cable well. My only question is why the back ports are still slower than they should be. Or maybe I'm overestimating how fast 3.2 ports can go. Is it normal for a 3.2 to take an hour to transfer 100Gb? If so then there's not actually anything wrong.
 
As for the headers, they are usually just called USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 headers. So i take it you mean the USB 3.0 header, where the front USB 3.0 connector goes on:

usb-3-terms-speed.jpg


3ybBV.jpg


USB ports on the case not working, or only working very slowly, can often be a problem with the pins on the USB header of the board. Those pins on the USB 3.0 header are extremely fragile and thin compared to the USB 2.0 headers, and the plug doesn't guide them very well. In my opinion, the USB 3.0 headers are a bad design. When you force the plug on there with the pins not perfectly lining up, you can easily bend a couple without noticing. Then when you unplug it to check, and try to bend them straight, they tend to break right off. See here for example, https://superuser.com/questions/166...-3-0-on-this-motherboard-if-it-has-broken-pin

This even happened to myself once, and i build PCs for people all the time. I saw that i bent one of the pins, tried to fix it, and it broke off immediately. Once this happens, then depending on which pin broke, you may not get a USB 3.0 connection anymore, it will be stuck at USB 2.0 speeds with are about 35 MB/s tops.

The actual write speed though depends only partly on the port's capabilities. Often times, the attached storage device is the limiting factor. So for example, when you put a mediocre USB stick on there with maybe 20 MB/s max write speed, it doesn't matter what the port can do. On your board, you only have 5 Gbit/s ports anyway, so the normal "USB 3.2 Gen 1" previously known as "USB 3.0" ones, with a theoretical maximum speed of around 500 MB/s, but usually below. If you were to max out the port's capabilities, say with a very fast external SSD that doesn't throttle after some time, then transferring 100 GB would take under five minutes. BTW, GB usually means GigaByte and Gb usually means Gigabit (i saw you writing Gb when you probably mean GB).

I also noticed the front 2.0 is split off of the 3.2 connector, which would explain why even the front 2.0 goes slower than the rear ports.

Split off? Are you sure? That makes no sense, you always have two USB 2.0 headers, even on a lower-end board model. These are your board's USB headers:

usb.jpg


What model is your case?
 
As for the headers, they are usually just called USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 headers. So i take it you mean the USB 3.0 header, where the front USB 3.0 connector goes on:

usb-3-terms-speed.jpg


3ybBV.jpg


USB ports on the case not working, or only working very slowly, can often be a problem with the pins on the USB header of the board. Those pins on the USB 3.0 header are extremely fragile and thin compared to the USB 2.0 headers, and the plug doesn't guide them very well. In my opinion, the USB 3.0 headers are a bad design. When you force the plug on there with the pins not perfectly lining up, you can easily bend a couple without noticing. Then when you unplug it to check, and try to bend them straight, they tend to break right off. See here for example, https://superuser.com/questions/166...-3-0-on-this-motherboard-if-it-has-broken-pin

This even happened to myself once, and i build PCs for people all the time. I saw that i bent one of the pins, tried to fix it, and it broke off immediately. Once this happens, then depending on which pin broke, you may not get a USB 3.0 connection anymore, it will be stuck at USB 2.0 speeds with are about 35 MB/s tops.

The actual write speed though depends only partly on the port's capabilities. Often times, the attached storage device is the limiting factor. So for example, when you put a mediocre USB stick on there with maybe 20 MB/s max write speed, it doesn't matter what the port can do. On your board, you only have 5 Gbit/s ports anyway, so the normal "USB 3.2 Gen 1" previously known as "USB 3.0" ones, with a theoretical maximum speed of around 500 MB/s, but usually below. If you were to max out the port's capabilities, say with a very fast external SSD that doesn't throttle after some time, then transferring 100 GB would take under five minutes. BTW, GB usually means GigaByte and Gb usually means Gigabit (i saw you writing Gb when you probably mean GB).



Split off? Are you sure? That makes no sense, you always have two USB 2.0 headers, even on a lower-end board model. These are your board's USB headers:

View attachment 173469

What model is your case?
I meant how the usb 3 connector to the mobo has a portion that connects to the 2.0 ... I'm out and about but I'll let you know what case I have when I'm back.
 
That is probably specific to your case model then, i've never had a case where the USB 2.0 and 3.0 front panel cables weren't completely seperate.
 
That is probably specific to your case model then, i've never had a case where the USB 2.0 and 3.0 front panel cables weren't completely seperate.
This is a mesh Cougar but it doesn't specify which exact model. I looked at several manuals for different ones and you're right, it shows the USB connector as one, unlike what's actually provided.
 
That is probably specific to your case model then, i've never had a case where the USB 2.0 and 3.0 front panel cables weren't completely seperate.
The picture you provided is what I'm referring to. How the 3.0 connector's cable splits off, one part for the 3.0 and the other for the 2.0. My drive is SSD and I was trying to connect to my Galaxy S22 but it went at like 1.0 speed. So does any other device I try. I checked the pins and they're all intact.
 
That is probably specific to your case model then, i've never had a case where the USB 2.0 and 3.0 front panel cables weren't completely seperate.
Btw, I'm really concerned about something I just noticed... Win 11's system information reported my mobo as MAG B460M BAZOOKA, so I installed the latest BIOS for it. However, I just looked up the part in parenthesis "(MS-7C83)" and it's a different mobo with newer BIOS! Is it possible I upgraded the wrong BIOS?!
 
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