B650M Mortar Wifi CPU / RAM not detected

[BrazilianFriend]

Hello guys I just finish my new pc and CPU and RAM leds are showing that both my Ryzen 7700x and my DDR5 2x8GB (XPG Adata Hunter 5200Mhz) were not detected and it doesn't boot.

I've tried everything, start with no ram, start with just one ram, one in each channel, one in a2 and other b2, reinstalled the cpu and AIO, change psu 4 pin to second connector, checked my mb for bad pins to the processor and its ok, nothing bend, reseted bios using USB, changed to the newest bios, I followed each step to rename the bios file to MSI.ROM.

I saw at least 15 posts with this issue here in the forum and zero solution, this is normal for MSI Motherboards and Support? I'll have to send back my mb and wait 1 month?

My PSU it's a A600DN MAG from MSI, aio (Cooler Master Core ARGB V2 240mm) and fans working normally just won't boot

 

[citay]

change psu 4 pin to second connector

You mean 4+4-pin? It has to have an 8-pin CPU_PWR header populated, with a 4-pin it won't work.

The PSU is too low-end, MSI A-DN is only 80 PLUS White certified, no doubt this is cheap stuff. I would try with a better PSU, maybe you can borrow one, or you buy one to replace this MSI which is not really good. See my Guide: How to find a good PSU. For a modern system, don't buy anything with 80 PLUS White, it guarantees that it's low-quality, using outdated technology. 80 PLUS Bronze is the minimum, but actually i would go 80 PLUS Gold, and then there are other factors. For example, is the warranty 5 years or longer? Are there professional reviews about a PSU model, showing if they use proper-quality components, and checking the performance of it?

For the A-DN you cannot find reviews from reputable reviewers using professional equipment. So if you can't find that, you don't buy it, if it has this low of an efficiency rating.

Of course, it's possible that the PSU has absolutely nothing to do with this, but i would replace it nonetheless. Save on everything else, for example get a Ryzen non-X (they are better anyway, almost the same performance at a considerably lower power draw), but don't try to save too much on the PSU, it will only cause problems later.

 

[BrazilianFriend]

You mean 4+4-pin? It has to have an 8-pin CPU_PWR header populated, with a 4-pin it won't work.

The PSU is too low-end, MSI A-DN is only 80 PLUS White certified, no doubt this is cheap stuff. I would try with a better PSU, maybe you can borrow one, or you buy one to replace this MSI which is not really good. See my Guide: How to find a good PSU. For a modern system, don't buy anything with 80 PLUS White, it guarantees that it's low-quality, using outdated technology. 80 PLUS Bronze is the minimum, but actually i would go 80 PLUS Gold, and then there are other factors. For example, is the warranty 5 years or longer? Are there professional reviews about a PSU model, showing if they use proper-quality components, and checking the performance of it?

For the A-DN you cannot find reviews from reputable reviewers using professional equipment. So if you can't find that, you don't buy it, if it has this low of an efficiency rating.

Of course, it's possible that the PSU has absolutely nothing to do with this, but i would replace it nonetheless. Save on everything else, for example get a Ryzen non-X (they are better anyway, almost the same performance at a considerably lower power draw), but don't try to save too much on the PSU, it will only cause problems later.

PSU is not the problem. I understand 80 plus White is not a good PSU but still a 600w psu with 80% efficiency for a CPU with no Graphic Card installed.

I just need some real answer to solve this problem, it looks something usual for MSI Motherboards, dozens of people complaining about it and no support to solve the problem.

 

[citay]

I would still test with a different PSU, because you have tested almost without any components except the CPU, you said the socket pins look good, and you never had something other than CPU+DRAM LED. So it's already between the CPU, the board, or the PSU. Out of these three, arguably it should be easiest to borrow a different PSU for testing. Then you can strike the PSU from the list. But then you still don't know if it's the CPU or the board, unless you test a different CPU in your board or your CPU in a different board.

If there is no solution to be found on this forum, there probably just isn't a good solution for it. On AM5, even the CPUs are sometimes known to be DOA. It is hard to tell unless you have another CPU to test with. Maybe you can ask some PC shop in the area if it's possible to test it there.

 

[BrazilianFriend]

I would still test with a different PSU, because you have tested almost without any components except the CPU, you said the socket pins look good, and you never had something other than CPU+DRAM LED. So it's already between the CPU, the board, or the PSU. Out of these three, arguably it should be easiest to borrow a different PSU for testing. Then you can strike the PSU from the list. But then you still don't know if it's the CPU or the board, unless you test a different CPU in your board or your CPU in a different board.

If there is no solution to be found on this forum, there probably just isn't a good solution for it. On AM5, even the CPUs are sometimes known to be DOA. It is hard to tell unless you have another CPU to test with. Maybe you can ask some PC shop in the area if it's possible to test it there.

I will test the PSU but this is a BIOS issue of MSI Motherboards in general, you'll find the same problem with different setups with MSI MB and the same suggestion of change the PSU didn't solve to these other people neither.

Anyway I just though that buying a MSI board and a MSI psu that can handle at least 480w would work together but if a new PSU from the same brand is the problem, well that's explains why all these people are complaining about the same thing in all MSI Motherboards.

 

[citay]

If you are convinced that your issue is identical to the other people (and it might be), and they tested with a different PSU and it made no difference, then you already narrowed it down to board or CPU. You said you flashed the BIOS using the Flash BIOS Button? Did you try different BIOS versions, and did it flash for 5-8 minutes and then rebooted?

I would open a ticket with MSI about it. Once you are down to the CPU or the board, and BIOS flashing doesn't improve things, then there is not much to do, unless you can test the CPU.

 

[BrazilianFriend]

I solved the problem, it is not a damaged cpu, nor memory or psu, the problem is in the RAM connector in the construction of MSI motherboards with DDR5.

Generally when installing the RAM, you place your fingers on both ends and push the RAM until the latch closes by itself, then you apply a little more force to make sure that the RAM is properly connected and that's where the construction problem comes in, you have to first fit the lower part of the RAM (with a force you have never applied to any other RAM module in your life), you will hear a "CLICK" at the end of the RAM (south or close to the USB 3.2 connection to make it clearer), then you go to the top of the RAM (north or close to the CPU FAN connectors) and apply the same force.

Everything working perfectly.

I hope this helps anyone who is experiencing the same problem, don't send your motherboard, memories, processor and power supply back without testing all your options first.

 

[citay]

Wow, that is unexpected. Good find! I will make sure to include this in my list of troubleshooting for AM5 / DDR5 boards.

 

[BrazilianFriend]

Wow, that is unexpected. Good find! I will make sure to include this in my list of troubleshooting for AM5 / DDR5 boards.

It's worth mentioning that I also did an update to the latest BETA version of the BIOS, but it only started to recognize the memories and the processor after I installed the memories in this other way.

 

[elijah.schuman152502cd]

I solved the problem, it is not a damaged cpu, nor memory or psu, the problem is in the RAM connector in the construction of MSI motherboards with DDR5.

Generally when installing the RAM, you place your fingers on both ends and push the RAM until the latch closes by itself, then you apply a little more force to make sure that the RAM is properly connected and that's where the construction problem comes in, you have to first fit the lower part of the RAM (with a force you have never applied to any other RAM module in your life), you will hear a "CLICK" at the end of the RAM (south or close to the USB 3.2 connection to make it clearer), then you go to the top of the RAM (north or close to the CPU FAN connectors) and apply the same force.

Everything working perfectly.

I hope this helps anyone who is experiencing the same problem, don't send your motherboard, memories, processor and power supply back without testing all your options first.

View attachment 180677

Dude thank you so much. You might have just saved me a few hundred dollars.

 

[pineda.jaso157202dc]

I solved the problem, it is not a damaged cpu, nor memory or psu, the problem is in the RAM connector in the construction of MSI motherboards with DDR5.

Generally when installing the RAM, you place your fingers on both ends and push the RAM until the latch closes by itself, then you apply a little more force to make sure that the RAM is properly connected and that's where the construction problem comes in, you have to first fit the lower part of the RAM (with a force you have never applied to any other RAM module in your life), you will hear a "CLICK" at the end of the RAM (south or close to the USB 3.2 connection to make it clearer), then you go to the top of the RAM (north or close to the CPU FAN connectors) and apply the same force.

Everything working perfectly.

I hope this helps anyone who is experiencing the same problem, don't send your motherboard, memories, processor and power supply back without testing all your options first.

View attachment 180677

I have no idea how much force is needed. I'm at the point where I can break my thumb if I force it more and yet I can't restart the pc reliably. The system works fine without any expo installed and at very low ram speeds but the problem is restarting the PC hangs the system at a yellow light.
How do you know when enough pressure was applied?

 

[fatedust]

I have no idea how much force is needed.

As other has mentioned you will hear a "Click" sound at the end of the RAM slot when the latch closes.
Here's a random video that I found on YouTube:
At 5:58 you can hear the click sound,