Goa?uld Al?Kesh [scratch build]


New member
Feb 17, 2016


Goa?uld Al?Kesh

is a space ship of the bomber class from the TV series Stargate SG1.
What is there to say?

Designation: Al'kesh
First appearance:SG1_04x22SG1 4x22 Exodus
Sheath material:Naquadah
Other systems:escape pod,ring Transporter,Camouflage shield (optional)

As a big Stargate fan I always wanted to have one of the spaceships.
Unfortunately it is very rare in the series and since the game there, every Alkesh looks different.
So just the right thing to let my creativity run wild.
Sometimes I do not even like the original right so I build the Al`kesh as I see it.
The Al'kesh was supposed to be a functional ITX system, and the rest would be inspired by Stargate

In this sense: Shal'kek nem'ron ('I die free!')

CPU: -
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666


in advance two pictures of the hardware which is installed.
Since I am still not sure how or how much I get into the case
I've sent the AERO ITX carefully to Alphacool to let me make a suitable water cooler for it.
Unfortunately there is not yet one on the market for the MSI VGA.

I would like to thank you very much to



since they support me so energetically in this project


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Hi ,
Sorry for beeing to late
I can?t edit the start post.

The updated spec list:

CPU: Intel Core I7 6600K
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: Enermax Revolution SFX 550W
Fan: 2 x Enermax T.B.RGB

Bitspower custom water cooling

I would like to thank you very much to





since they support me so energetically in this Project

More updates comming soon then I explain what was going on.


New member
Feb 17, 2016

Now it's going on again.

As previously mentioned I've sended the VGA to Alphacool, which arrived there at the beginning of 10/2017. As a hint, I should calculate with 20 days for the mapping. (ca. 11/2017) and 8-12 weeks manufactoring, so max 01/2048 - 03.2018.

The VGA was sended back short before Christmas, on demand, they couldn't give me an Answer about the further term, so I have to school myself in patience.

In my assessment I've asked them again in January, but I'm not able to find the email for it. My last request was at the 27.02.2018 but since Christmas I'm not getting any replies.

But because MSI and Crucial/Ballistix are trust in me, which I've already strained in my Opinion, I needed to orienteering me otherwise.

And see there I was able to find a fitting VGA Cooler at Bitspower and could convince them to support my Project.

That opens me of course an other possibility to even adapt the Watercooling on the typical Goa`uld Al`kesh Colors.

But see for yourself

The acerbity of course was, no sooner as Bitspower sended out the Packet to me, it was honestly the same day 14.03.2018 (Big Brother is watching you and so), if got a reply from Alphacool. Sorry etc.

Very well then I've now two Cooler Super. :klatsch:

Well now, let's start.

As first step, I've builded on my own a Styroporcutter, more flexible as a table and hand device. I don't need to say a lot about it I think. All right, working with the water level, cause with bevel cuts I can't work.

Here the auxiliary solution to stretch the Wire

And here the fixture to make it able to use the hole thing also as Hand device/ lance.

Now I've got two Styroporplates in 100x50x16cm. At first I wanted to glue them together to get enough height for building but meanwhile one plate is enough. So first a fitting egg was cutted.

And the the Lance unplugged and worked securely with free hands. How it is at all works, a bit less cutting then to much.

Now it's go further with 40er and 60er sandpaper, that works really well. With this result I haven't thought, apart from that mess.

So step by step I fumble my way to the Form that delight me.

As far as good, now I started to sister the different layers from the Al`Kesh. For that you use preferably thick construction paper for it.

Everything somehow compromises but only these makes imaginative. How a painter just is, he's thinking that filler will do its best, but the more the better is the working now, as less level out is needed later.

False sequence sorry but here is the Material that I organized for it. I will comment in the next working steps.

To get a stand clear gap and to hamper the contact between the polyester resin and the Styropor (it would decay in a short time) I've insert a 3mm thick PE Tube in the side.

Now only the Back. I've thought everything would went easier/faster but that is making a DIY?er out.

I didn't know how the Polyester Resin would react with the duct tape, so ever duct tapes and gaps would glued more with paper and instantglue

and so its begin, the hole paper covered in a deep layer of Polyester Resin and then carefully dap little strips weaves on it. not spreading just dapping that the Strips won?t move.

In the same way the spreading would tear down the weaves.

The Weaves draws full of the resin from alone.

During the work the resin will begin gelation and you can dap the next mixture on it or the remaining Material until the Weaves are completly embedded.

Because the work with the Paper became silly i?ve tried on trail to paint the sides with wall color to get a seperation between the Polyesterresin and the Styropor. That was really marginal, as the Weaves was on it, i saw the Styropor began to wind up. Phew saved by the bell.

To reach the most highest stability I've choose two Polyester putty knifes. One rude fibre-reinforced and a fine Polyester putty knife.

Here the rude one. He is remove the biggest surface irregularities.

Groundhog Day. For Days always the same work steps by a processing time of 2-5 min, nerves after a time but as Painter it's buisness as usual.

Blending - processing - cleaning tools - smoking break :D

Time for the next Layer: the Cap

The Cap was painted with Polyester Resin so it can reach the right form. The process of gelation is going on fairly quick,os you can take an eye on the dry process. It was fixed with assembly adhesive out of the cartridge. At the Borders I watched out that it isn't gluing with the spaceship. I went regularly along the sites with a boxcutter.

The resin which was to much I painted on the Spaceship, like you can see.

Now I've coated both side of the Cap with GRP Weaves. I two working process for sure. It gelate fast but is hardened first after 12h. It depends on how good you mix it. To observe the presets is really important. I've mostly mixed with Syringes of 50-100ml but how you think a lot helps a lot, that's not the fall here. To much hardened can extend the dry time fastly to more then 24h. I've looked a bit silly out of the clothes xD

Temperature is important like at varnish minimum 20?+.

Okay this is going to explode the picture limit.

A weekly update is verified herewith :)

See you next time!!



New member
Feb 17, 2016
Thx guys.
after I covered everything with the fine polyester knife it went to the bottom.
Exactly the same procedure as above

Now the Back had to be straightened, but I needed a guide rail.

Paper helps very well as a ruler replacement if you want to cut polystyrene,
So I cut the shape of the spacecraft from construction paper and taped it on styrodur, and cut it out.

Now I had a straight line to fix the paper strips and then brush with polyester resin.

the same on the bottom

Now I could cover everything with the polyester putty.

Now it was time to determine the perfect shape for the pyramid.
First try with paper.

Nooo that Looks not good :p

second try :  is better.  :thumbsup:
Nice snappy in the front and a fat back to look inside.
The pyramid is later built from plexiglas :rock:

first template i built from wood

What do you think about the form?

Now I can cut everything up

remove cover carefully

Hole drilled

and cut out, after that I began to fill the underside.

After cutting the spaceship, the whole thing looked like this.

Unfortunately I did not have a picture of the empty interior at this time.
But i have posted a Video onFacebook .
But as it looks exactly then you see in the next post :p


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Hello and Happy Easter!
This time a monster update.

I have a lot tube remains but nothing fits for a engine

I found 4 feets for shop shelves

and yeah I think that suits.


and lenses to illuminate each engine from the inside

Then the Ballistix Sport LT.
I remove the decals and cooler. 
I closed the holes with aluminum kit

paint in Gold

and glued them with thermal adhesive

i cut out 3mm Alu for the Riser Cable.

and glued with GRP 

I noticed that I forgot a level on the bottom.

Unfortunately, it has slipped by 2 mm

finally the radiators arrived

cut out 

i like it

The point why i used 2 120mm rads and no 240

then i glued the rads with epoxy and the poylester resin

brood brood- Power Supply Ventilation - Transporter Rings, Dr Watson Combine! :rofl:

Hahaha YES!
For the holder 2 alu angle i used.

fixed with fiber-rainforced knife

and then with GRP

As a dust filter I've cut out a circle from an old mesh

bend arround the tube

and glued with Acrifix R192.

now the hinge mechanism

 3mm Alu for the shipside.

everything was as large as possible placed in GRP as usual

now i marked the layer for the MB tray
and used two small alu angle

these where fixed with fibreglas-rainforced putty and painted with polyester resin  

Good you are now up to date.
Yesterday I started customizing the MB Tray but more about it next time.​


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Tek?ma?tek Tauri!

Now it went to the MB tray.
To measure it, I just measured every two inches from the center
and put me on the tray points.

so I could accurately as possible to cut the aluminum.

now the riser card 

and cut the threads for it

then all holes and spacers were set

now it went to the cockpit
I just played something with Plexiglas to see where that leads.

So I started sticking together piece by piece

yes its okay

Next, I have a mini-hinge, generously with the Acrifix, glued into the pulpit and cut on the ship's side a thread in the large hinge (M1.5)

Now I have the pages straightened and ready.
With the pulpit I now have a small hinge which hides the big hinge :stupid::rofl:

So now the flop at all.
Last week I built landing skids. But the fit absolutely not to the spaceship

So they come in the showcase.
I need another solution for that . :wall:

At some point I have to do it, I also want to finally install gas spring for the lid but without the pyramid, the lid is still too unstable.
Lets go

First attempt went wrong but so I can practice gluing something

Next, I will prepare the plates for gluing.
Thank you all.
Until next time


New member
Feb 17, 2016

Hello ,

All cut surfaces were sanded and deburred

then cleaned and masked with polyester adhesive tape and glued.

Of course, the first attempt went awry. When masking I kept the scalpel too oblique, so the gap was too big and I could only remove the excess adhesive by force.
I even had a fugue apart, well that was somehow clear.
So second try.

second attempt was actually okay except for a minimal blistering

So I tried it a third time.
But that was even worse, I use number 2

Now I've packed the pyramid clean again for all subsequent operations and cut out the shape of the spaceship

Then the spaceship so that the pyramid fits in perfectly

so that the adhesive and the filler form any unwanted reflections I have all cut edges painted gold.
Then inserted the pyramid and puttied all the gaps again.

finally progress :cool:

In addition, I built an IO shield for the motherboard.
Which form suits the concept best?
Right, a goa?uld sarcophagus.
For this I cut some aluminum

and bend it in shape

For the outer curves fits 16er tubes

For the circles I took 5mm Plexiglas

I then glued the pipes liberally with the glass fiber spatula and then brushed it with polyester resin

then small aluminum strips were cut and folded.
Now I've stuck everything with epoxy glue on IO-Shield and set a few decals.

and painted.

Hahahah :banana: like it
especially since the motherboard remains fully functional, back is open and all ports are fully accessible on the board

So let's see how far I am next time! :cool:


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Sooo let's go on.
There will be a lot to report after this weekend :cool:

Where do I start?
I pretty much worked on all areas in parallel, but sorted the images by topic to keep things more manageable.
The drives were finally fastened.

Since the fiber putty is hard after 5min I held each drive individually in position and lubricated from the inside the putty with finger on it.
I actually wanted to be able to remove it and glue it at the end, but it was not necessary. After the second fiber putty operation, they held up very well

Then I came up with a brilliant idea.
For the drive I have cut 4 rounds of 1cm Plexiglas

the edges thereafter roughly chamfered by the router and not ground on purpose but only slightly polished.
The effect fits very well when all lights up

after that I prepared the original light guide plate and the new one for gluing

and glued to the Acrifix R192. Of course this worked right away (almost where it does not matter :wall: )

The result, unprocessed, perfect. No bubbles no cracks. I do not expect anything more. :heul:

Now the impression that I imagined :banana:

Then I started yesterday to put the holes for the LEDs and glue these.
3mm blue concave

Part 2. The bomb
Now I could finally dig out the thermoforming box and deep pull the bomb.
If someone wants more details just let me know. ;)

after I cut out the bomb with scissors and sanded it reasonably straight.
Have I set a clean cut to the desired height with the Proxxon tool.


then I cut a ring on which I can then stick a LED stripe

Now I painted both from the inside without a primer black, because as I said, the green does not fit into the concept.
I've got 4-5 photos of the bomb or Al'kesh control panel here and only one of them is green. The others are all black.
Also, each has different symbols.

Which brings me to the next point.
I could not find a direct font for Goa'uld writing.
There are either only the gate symbols or it is referred to one of the many ancient Egyptian scriptures.
None of them would be eligible for the bomb.
I had then first made a few decals with the ancient script which I was also allowed to manually trace but that did not look good.
So I traced the font from the photo of the last post and used it.
Luckily, I could see just 10 icons to assign them 10 LEDs.

Part 3. The holder second try

The basic idea was already in my head for a while, but I still lacked the final attachment to the Alkesh itself.
As usual, "hit it and get started" I've just built it and I do not think it's that bad.
1. Create an ellipse and half close it to the circle.
This then cut out of 8mm extruded Plexiglas

Then with the router all edges chamfered to 4mm.

Now I cut a 4cm Plexiglas rod at 20 degrees.

the whole is then glued to the base plate

Now the support surface for the Alkesh.
Also cut here 8mm extruded Plexiglas and bevelled all edges to 2mm.

After that I started to bend both sides by 25 degrees each 4cm from the center.
Great the photo forget crap!
4cm from the outside I bent then by 65 degrees.
Thus I have three points that I can push into the Alkesh and under the radiators still enough space for the ball valves and sufficient supply and exhaust air

Part 4. The pillars

Just the 8mm slit Plexiglas strip was not enough for me so I cut out of 3mm Plexiglas also 8mm strips and have these all provided with Slots.

so in style

Now I've cut all the pillars exactly to length

and then stuck the 3mm Plexiglas in the offset

Now I began to prime and fill all the pillars.

until I was satisfied with the surface.

Now I stuck all pillars with foil. Similar to the sarcophagus.

Then everything again primed

and painted several times in Gold.

Last but not least part 5. The Alkesh

At the Alkesh I had to put under the res one more recess so I can put the pump directly under him.

Then I positioned the IO-Shield from below behind the radiators

Although I actually wanted to do without it, I smoothed the interior once again

everything primed

and then closed the last little holes to waterproof the whole case

The motherboard tray I have already provided with a 1K Alugrundierung and a few layers of primer

So far, so good, nice to finally see a little bit of color :banana:​


New member
Feb 17, 2016

So that was a short week but it went forward.
The base plate of the bracket has been polished.

The acrylic glass rod I have now glued to the base plate.

Now I put the holes for the holder in the Alkesh

I then filled the cavity (between the attached trapezoid of the rads and the actual Alkesh bottom) with glass fiber spatula


Now I've polished all edges of the bracket

and here is an impression of the holder.
I still have to glue the overlay to the pipe. Still coming.

then I began to paint the Alkesh and prepare for it.
First only primer.

The waves on the top were filled two to three times with the polyester spatula

then back primer and a tin of spray filler.
Now everything looks different and feels much better

Now I sanded the whole wet with 400 and had to make only a few corrections.
The lid here is exactly the same.
Here you can see quite well the looped points of the first operation and how the areas in between all filled with polyester spatula.

The current status.
To no new waves or bumps purely to grind through too much grinding I went over only with paper 600 and have primed everything again.
I will definitely repeat the whole thing 2-4 times until I am satisfied.

Well, we'll see.
Short week and then there is plenty of time to keep working:cool:


New member
Feb 17, 2016
And on it goes, I completely forgot that the Modding Masters already on 2.-3.6.18 is.
I really wanted to be done so now we have a Deadline.

As I mentioned earlier, there was a lot to fill and to grind.

The IO panel should still be clad with ribs, after long thinks whether Plexi or Alu I have decided jokingly for a PVC design flooring.
The surface is like everything else slightly arched, so I was reluctant to bend ALU or Plexi for.

I then cut this 16 times in 5mm strips, sanded some edges and glued with mounting glue in 7mm distance on the IO panel

oh so and the Alkesh would then slowly ready for the paint job

After curing, I then sanded the supernatants, a little more leveled and primed

As I mentioned in some forums, blue LEDs are not bright enough for the drive so I rebuilt the lens without the holes for LEDs on the back.
Here is just a white high density LED stripe behind the lens. The effect is really cool because you go blind: rofl:
but a slight blue tint, I would have been happy.

I have here now two lenses back with light and dark blue painted but except that the light intensity decreases does not bring much synonymous.
The blue effect comes only from the reflection of the plexiglass on the side, but the light itself remains white.
No plan then I'll leave it White.

so I had a roll of 4mm trim in chrome, they fit perfectly to the front of the Alkesh's.
Normally, two more lines would cross in the middle, but at this point the Bitspower Dragon is supposed to. As this is very similar to the symbols of Jaffa Tattoos.
Attached with superglue, keeps bomb

When I wanted to paint the cockpit, I noticed that the part of times something crooked is so I was allowed to build me a new cockpit.

Since the moldings are rounded down, I still had everything neatly trowel here

and so that I can still open the lid properly, the ends were still bevelled.

Now I've taken a day off the weekend and made various patterns for the Alkesh.

then plotted out

and glued on the Alkesh

I then primed all of them and painted them in a dark gold.
Just like other surfaces.
If anyone knows the Tel'Tak, guess what I intend to do ;)

Well, I experimented with circles and ellipses for a while until I had the radii of the Alkesh.
These were then plotted out.

and then stuck to the Alkesh.
Yes, and that was not easy to get both sides top AND bottom identically. : Banana:
in parallel, the gold-painted decals were taped again so that only certain areas remain gold.
The lines are almost exactly the same, the foil is removed later so that only the lines are gold

partly also other decals were set which are only painted and then visually stand out from the surface.

So that the color does not run under the foil later on, I painted all the relevant spots a few more times in gold.

Well, just before then I primed everything again slightly. This should dry now that I can once again sand everything with 600 wet and can check off the final paint.

The Alkesh is now painted in silver and then the whole spaceship gets a Washing Effect (YouTube)
As I said before, a dark gray would be the right shade, but with gray I just do not have the metal effect, so it's now painted silver.
See you next time, now it's moving forward :cool:


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Here I am again.
This time there were many low blows but it goes ahead.
Where had I stopped?
Achso, the Alkesh I have now completely painted outside silver.

and then remove all the tapes.
Although the film is good for masking because no color runs behind but the paint has decomposed the film that remained the adhesive on the spaceship.
In addition, you needed so much power to remove that I went to 30% everywhere the color with.
In the dark places you can see very well the glue residues here.
Okay, so only the removal of the residue has cost me smooth 3h and from the repair of the paint damage, we need not even talk.
All affected areas taped again or partly plotted first and repainted.

Now it was up to the interior and the MB Tray.
At first I painted all of this anthracite,

and then sprayed with two colors, silver and white, marble effect spray. I've put a few shades with gray and black shadow spray and provided everything with a gold glitter spray

the very end I still have sealed everything with semi-gloss varnish.

The cockpit I have set off laterally in gold

then finally the upper bracket glued to the acrylic tube.

The rings of the drive could now be glued to the scattering lenses.
Before that taped so that the diffusion lenses when washing effect not be dirty.

Now it went to the LEDs for the drive.
Without words, I have tried other LED positions but this is the best choice.

I then stuck the stripes in the drives with hot glue

and from the inside everything still wired clean.

on the door to the PSU I have drawn lines with a golden edding

before I stuck the pillars on it. Superglue is just perfect.

Cooooooool :love:

now something went on in the interior.
Fan PSU and a few Fittings mounted.

The HDMI connection by itself and the USB 3.0, I fixed with hot glue and then poured completely with epoxy glue.

I was able to solder the 230V extension of the SFX Revolution.

On sunday it finally got to the cable.
Probably the shortest extensions I was allowed to do.
First, the 24pin ATX cable to about 10cm.

then the PCIe cable to 20cm, because the original would be too short.

And the 8pin EPS cable I could 1: 1 sleeving.

Ahso and the pump cables are the same.

I do not even know where to start but I have so much spanking this weekend.
This is not even the half of the photos I had.
But without words.
Yeah the digital LEDs for the bomb I wanted to fix with velvet ring with hot glue from the inside but please let brain rain.
The hot glue has of course destroyed the whole shape :wall:

Well for the bomb, I've still cut a base plate, chamfered the edges and also immediately painted black.

The cockpit I have now provided with Goa'uld font, but without meaning, there would be no room for it.
I then opted only for optically matching hieroglyphics.

I have dissected a light cord, which I originally wanted to use but then discarded again, and found that lead the only one strand for the mass.
Just soldered some cables.
Because of the split tray, I need two cords, but have only bought one and did not want to install two extra separate.
This should then serve as edge interior lighting.

okay, I then soldered the second string to the controller and it works, yeah!
Via 5V

Okay for the 5V still a small distributor made in black

glued a 3pin connector to the PCB and soldered it to the battery poles.

Yes and I wanted to use these homemade combs for a long time xD.
Sorry that no sharp photo at is when you always double photographed everything on cell phone and camera does that happen.

I simply screwed the entire board to the tray from below with a plastic spacer.
Before, of course, the holes drilled in the tray.
I also find cool on what you do not come for ideas if you have a long time. :rofl:

Okay and then I stuck the string to the tray, fixed it with adhesive and then reinforced it with epoxy glue from the outside.
Sorry at such late times I'm always really unable to shoot sharp photos, too dark too much energy drinks and so on

Slowly I'm running out of ideas.
Oh yes, there was something else: crystal control panel, but first I want to finish the coating so that all tapes can go away.
The pyramid still has to be polished, the bomb is still to be programmed and otherwise only minor things

THX a lot


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Lets go, it was a bit stressful the last two weeks but it was worth it.
That's what he looks like now the "Washing Effect".

I have used black acrylic paint for this and also some of metallic effect colors on acrylic base (black, silver, anthracite, gold)
The colors are simply diluted down to water, applied, and then wiped off again with a fuselage-free rag.
Depending on your preference you wipe them in some places more on others less down.
This results in a very nice wear effect after 5-8 passes.
Unfortunately, I could not count because I was very often dissatisfied and the colors have completely wiped down.
As always there were some problems:
- Water colors or school colors do not work, they dissolve each time you work again
- as the first colors are permanently beaded off the rim varnish I sanded the Alkesh again completely with 1000 sandpaper.

Since the curves pardu did not want to get darker, I felt different here.
I wrapped the rag around my index finger, dipping the finger lightly into black undiluted paint and distributing it evenly.
But in very small steps so max 5-10 square centimeters.
Immediately after applying, I began to beat the color like a madman with a finger.
This resulted in this beautiful hammered effect. :love:

Okay, after I had finished, I stuck the interior completely off and painted the whole Alkesh Clear.

After the third Goa'uld bomb was finally finished I was able to deal with the programming of the Arduino

I like it. I also had a short video of it on Facebook uploaded

The control for the light string I had provided with the hot glue, then it was quiet.
Unfortunately, it was suddenly loud after installation. Try the whole thing again with candle wax.
The whole control I do not want to pour only the throttle.

Okay, when I touched the Al'Kesh one day later I realized that I had applied a lot of dirt with the "washing effect"
  So everything was ground again smooth and once again painted clear.

On the bottom plate, I put a Chrome logo as a Tauri sign and the sponsors to match in matt gold.

For all the RGB LEDs, I have tinkered with a small distributor to control all over the Motherboard.

so for the cockpit I put a yellow LED in a small reflector

took me a small bulb and made me with the thermoforming of it an imprint.

I then cut it into shape and stuck it on the reflector

then painted in gold

To recognize something bad, but finally, after the foil was removed from the pyramid, I polished the cut edges of the window

The reflector I stuck now in the cockpit, previously drilled a hole for the cable of course

So now Tialc also has a steering wheel to fly XD

The Arduino was now soldered to a board, in addition to the LEDs of the bomb, I still put the connection for the yellow cockpit LED and the drives.

Finally, I glued a 3mm Plexiglas plate with hot glue from below so that there is no short circuit here.

Well the cables are all sitting, time for hardware installation.

There's not much to say about cutting tubes.
For the ball valves under the Alkesh I cut two 4cm tubes to 45 degrees.

and then edited them with the Bunsen burner.

The effect is super cool. We would then have the mouths of the ship's cannons.
Again, no photo ... [***CENSORED***].
I feared that the ball valves with Q-distributor would be too big for the Al'Kesh but quite the opposite.
They fit perfectly.

Okay, at least something I photographed.
The finished loop :love:

Soo we went to Modding Masters in Friedrichshafen.
I had not registered the Alkesh because the ROG Carbine was not there yet.
This won but smooth the first place for scratch build and additionally the audience Award.

I still had a Casemod at which there is not even a worklog and also this one won the second prize. Really unexpected because I just cobbled this just for fun together.
But since there has been something in the case for over a year, there was plenty of work in it.

Okay, I really do not want to torment you, but it should still be a little exciting.
The holder for the Alkesh made of 8mm Plexiglas was a bit shaky for me.
It has held but also the orientation does not tell me so completely so I started yesterday just after the car unload a new bracket from 1cm thick Plexiglas to build.
First cut the bottom plate again with the jigsaw

and then chamfered edges and polished the same everything.

Then I cut the star, the chamfering, bending and polishing will come tomorrow.

Okay that was it again, a few little things are still to be done, until Gamescom I have so much time again :D


New member
Feb 17, 2016
Sooo the wait is over.
Here is the last update.

Next it went to the new 1cm bracket.
After all edges were beveled I bent them now differently to change the angle of Al`kesh something.
So it feels a bit more coherent and you can look much better into it.​

The whole pyramid was now covered with frosted glass foil,
really took a while until I had created a design which optimally fits the transparency and now
the pyramid is not quite as invisible as on the Modding Masters.
More photos will be available at the end of the article.​

Now I took some time to design a few decals for the bottom plate.
This time it's the original Goa'uld font combined with the sponsor logos.​

After these were transferred to the base plate, she got anti-skid and finished.:love:

Now the first outdoor finalpics.
With the lighting you have to wait a bit, after removing the hot glue of the light string control it will not work anymore.
I have already ordered new but unfortunately, the earliest comes until the end of this month.
The system is running anyway, OS is not on it yet.
After one or two hours of bios, the temps were at 36 degrees, which I find okay for two 120mm Slim.
But see for yourself, what do you think?​

Okay, so if I look at this myself I think it's pretty PORN: banana:
Yeah I finally have an AL`KESH: D
For the drives, I had extra with a 9Volt battery taken but the performance was unfortunately not sufficient despite cloudy day.
Well, no matter what you see at the next indoor photo shoot.
Hope this happens this month but now I have to move on to the next project.
This time again a Casemod name "Anubis" :hmm::d​


New member
Feb 17, 2016

Hi, sorry for my delay, I had a sick cat at home the last few weeks and had to go to the vet almost daily.
At the moment my cat seems to be better but the cause still could not be found.
So I still fear daily for his life :(

So as promised here a short video of the Alkesh and the last photos on the fly.

For all who go to Gamsecom, you can see the Goa'uld Bomber there at the ECOM booth, hall 10.1, booth B.20.





New member
Feb 17, 2016
Hey guys,
The DCMM (germany?s casemodding championship) is now taking place in Leipzig on the Dreamhack.
And what can I say .... YEAHHH, I was able to defend my title and have actually again occupied the 1st place in the category CaseCons(scratch build) with the "Alkesh".



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