Guide: How to set up a fan curve in the BIOS

[citay]

Setting up a fan curve involves a balance between airflow and noise. But it is not that difficult when you know a good way to do it, and you only have to do it once.

First, a word about the fans. I'll try not to make it too difficult, there is just some precise terminology i have to use, but in the end it's not that hard to understand, i promise.

If you want to skip this part and go right to the information about setting up fan curves, scroll down to FAN CURVES.


There are two different types of fans, which you can tell apart by their plug. Let's look at this picture:

A three-pin plug means the fan is DC (= direct current) voltage-controlled. A 4-pin plug means it's PWM (pulse width modulation) controlled.
With a DC-controlled fan, the fan speed is regulated by the board powering it with lower or higher voltages (say, between 3V and 12V) instead of steady 12V.
With a PWM-controlled fan, the board powers it with a steady 12V, and the fan speed is controlled through the fourth pin via a PWM signal.

Note: The "RPM Speed Signal" pin (rotations per minute) in the picture is telling the motherboard at which speed the fan is spinning, it is not controlling the fan.

So for each fan, you have to select the right fan control method: DC for a 3-pin fan or PWM for a 4-pin fan.


Beware: Some cheaper motherboard models may only allow DC control for most of the fan headers, or only allow PWM control for all of the fan headers, regardless of the fan headers all being 4-pin headers or not. This may save them a few cents/pennies on components around the fan headers, but it can be very inconvenient if you have the wrong type of fans, and you can't control them properly. So pay extra attention to that.

It's easy to notice in the BIOS: When you can't control some 4-pin fan headers with a PWM signal and instead only have DC (voltage) control available. Or when you don't have the ability to set a DC voltage for the fans, and you can only set a PWM percentage (then, when using 3-pin fans, they would always run at full speed here, because they would get constant 12V).

But you can also find out about this in the manual, before purchasing such a board.
Two examples of such boards. First, a board where they saved money on two of the headers:

Both CPUFAN headers can control the fan speed via PWM signal or DC voltage (depending on the fan and which control method you select in the BIOS).
But the SYSFAN headers at the bottom can only control the fan speed via DC voltage, despite having a 4-pin fan header.
"NC" means Not Connected, so they didn't implement PWM control on those headers for cost-saving. On more expensive board models, all the fan headers should be able to control fans with both methods. But in this example, you'd want your 4-pin PWM fans on the two CPUFAN headers, if possible.

Second example, from the MSI PRO Z790-S WIFI, the worst Intel Z-series board on the market:

This board simply doesn't offer DC Voltage control for any fan headers, only PWM control. So if you use 3-pin case fans (or CPU fans) on this board, since they don't have the fourth wire for the PWM speed control signal, they're stuck at a full 12V. There is no way to control 3-pin fans on this board at all, the fan curves will be useless for them. You need some kind of solution like a seperate fan controller, which some cases may offer.

These shortcomings are mostly on lower-end board models. Once you go for a slightly nicer board model (from lower mid-range onwards), they should be able to have all fan headers controlled in both ways, DC voltage or PWM.


By the way: Every PWM fan can also be DC-controlled, it's just a slightly worse method of controlling it. One advantage of PWM control is that the fan will always turn on, even at a very low setting (unless it's purposely configured to stay off below 5% or 20% PWM signal for example). But when you go too low with the voltage on DC control, the fan might not turn on reliably, as the voltage is not enough to overcome the fan motor's resistance, so you'd have to add a bit of extra margin on the voltage.

The general target for the fan curves is:
- Nice low RPM (fan speed) at low temperatures
- Let the RPM ramp up gently with rising temperatures
- Only ramping up the RPM faster when the temperature approaches a quite high level.


Now, before setting the fan curves: Since we're doing this in the BIOS, this is a good time to first update the BIOS to the newest version. Because if you decide to update the BIOS later, it will reset all settings (on a lot of boards, that includes the fan curves), and you have to enter everything again. But since we'll start from scratch now anyway, updating the BIOS beforehand is a good idea.

A quick how-to on BIOS updates:
1) Get the latest BIOS. It's always the topmost one when you click on "BIOS" on the MSI support page for the mainboard.
2) Extract the file and you will get a text file and the BIOS file. Put the BIOS file into the root folder of a USB stick/drive.
3) Enter the BIOS by pressing DEL during boot, go to "M-FLASH" in the BIOS.
4) Once M-Flash (the updater) is loaded, it will show a list of your drives. Select the USB stick and select the previously extracted BIOS file on there.
5) It will ask for confirmation and then update the BIOS. It's fully automatic from there, takes about two minutes.


Now, before we come to the topic of how to set good fan curves, let's first look at a proper way to create an airflow through the case. Normally there should be at least one intake fan (usually at the front) and at least one exhaust fan (usually at the rear, in line with the CPU cooler). This will ensure a defined airflow through the case which can extract the heat from the components.

All the fans should work in unison within that airflow, to get one stream of cold air coming in from the front, picking up some heat (mostly from the CPU and GPU), and the warmed-up air being exhausted out of the rear. So in modern cases, the airflow usually looks something like this:

Perhaps minus the fans on top of the case. But there often will be at least one fan (if not two or three) in the front, and one exhaust fan in the rear behind the CPU cooler. Each fan will have one or two arrow markings on one of the sides, showing the rotational direction as well as the airflow direction, and all the "airflow arrows" should be pointing towards the rear of the case. When the fans come pre-installed in the case, they will already be installed like that.

If the front intake fans outnumber the rear exhaust fan by 2:1 or 3:1, then the rear fan ideally runs on slightly higher RPM than the front fans, to create a more even airflow.



FAN CURVES

Now it's time to set the fan curves. Enter the BIOS (press DEL after power-on/reboot) and open the "Hardware Monitor" which offers the fan control.
For each fan, you can set four points of a curve, MSI calls this the "Smart Fan Mode".

This is how it might look:

Note that each of the four points of a fan curve is restricted by the points next to it, it can't go lower than the previous point or higher than the following point.
So you may have to move a neighboring point if you hit a restriction on the point you want to adjust.

The goal for the first point of the curve is to find a setting with a bit of airflow, but where the fan is very quiet. This will be the setting when the CPU is doing nothing (idle).
You don't need a lot of airflow when the CPU temperature is low anyway. My fans spin only at around 400 RPM there, as you can see, just enough to keep some air moving through the case. Note that i have a high-end air cooler with two fans on there, as well as three 140mm case fans in a large case. So in a small case with fewer fans, you will need a bit higher RPM to keep it this cool inside. But there is no need to have the fans spin for example at 1000 RPM in idle.

For testing, it's good to open the case and put your hand behind the fan or behind the cooler (where the air gets blown through) to feel how much airflow the fan generates with different values. As long as you don't touch the motherboard or other components, there's no danger. And you can immediately feel the results of your adjustments.

For testing the airflow, turn off "Smart Fan Mode" for a while, so you can influence the fan speed directly. You can also turn off the other fans, so you can find the sweet spot for low temperatures with the particular fan you're checking. Remember, you only need a slight airflow for this starting point of the fan curve, the goal is not to have unnecessary noise when the temperature is low.

For this goal (a bit of airflow, but being very quiet), the resulting PWM % value (or DC voltage on 3-pin fans) is your starting point at 30°C or 40°C for this fan's curve. The temperature you select depends on where you want the fan to first start ramping up. It makes no sense to define a temperature below the ambient temperature, or below the minimum CPU temperature, you'd just be wasting the whole adjustment point. So anything below 30°C only makes sense with powerful cooling methods that can actually hold the CPU below 30°C.

Next, don't go to the second point, but the third one. Find a good level where the airflow is strong but the noise is still bearable, and use this as your "full CPU load" setting for higher temperature values like 65°C or 75°C. To fine-tune this point of the curve, you might have to go back and forth from the BIOS to Windows, where you monitor the fan speed with certain CPU load and fine-tune the setting afterwards. But it doesn't take that long to do, and you only have to do it once.

As for the second point of the curve, the inbetween point: Set it slightly below a straight line between the first and third point, to not make the fans ramp up too fast at medium temperatures.

For the final point, set it for 85°C or 90°C CPU temperature and 100% PWM value (or full 12V DC with a 3-pin fan). This is the "worst case" point for safety.
Now you should have all four points of the curve set to a sensible value, and most of the time, the fan should stay between the first and the third point. The highest last point is just a safety measure.

I would always create such an "ascending dominant" curve:

A perfectly straight line makes no sense, you'd be wasting the two middle adjustment points.
A descending dominant curve makes no sense, as it will make more noise than necessary.

Here are examples. You might of course have to use different values, but just to see how it should rougly look like. The curve needs to be done for your particular fans.

This is for a PWM fan (4-pin), which is controlled by a PWM % signal:

I would always prefer "Temperature source" CPU for the CPU fan(s), and probably most other fans too.
Usually, the CPU temperature is the most important one, and will influence the other temperatures.
Step down time 1.0s makes the fans spin down less audibly.

However, it's also feasible use "Temperature source" System for case fans. Here's an example for a DC (voltage-controlled) 3-pin fan.
Note: The following picture is not how it should be set when using the CPU temperature as the source (which is the usual temperature source),
it's an example of a fan curve when using the System temperature as the source, which could be done for case fans.
When using CPU temperature as the source, the fan curve should not be this steep, it should be more like the pictures above.

Of the five total fans in my PC (two on the CPU cooler, three in the case), this lower front intake fan is the only one for which i use the "System" Temperature Source. I want it to react to the system temperature with a steeper curve, since the system temperature will obviously increase much more slowly than the CPU temperature. The graphics card can be a major contributor to heating up the whole system, and since i can't use a graphics card sensor as the temperature source, this is sort of a roundabout way to handle that. Of course, you can also have the CPU as the temperature source for all the fans, then you should use a shallower curve like in the pictures before this one.

Here's a 4-pin system fan (in my case, a Noctua NF-A14 PWM) with the CPU as the temperature source:

In my system, the CPU temperature actually stays very low under load, since i have a mid-range CPU and a high-end CPU cooler. Therefore, even for the system/case fans, i can set this steep of a fan curve and not worry about getting jet engine noises under load, it will still stay pretty quiet. Depending on the individual configuration, it might be better to have the system fans on less steep of a curve compared to the CPU fan(s), just so the noise is less annoying under load. It all depends on your setup, what kind of fans you have, and noise/temperature preference.

When you have a graphics card (GPU) with a pretty high power draw, and/or there will be a lot of gaming done on the PC, then it's also a good idea to observe the various temperatures during a stint of gaming, running HWinfo Sensors in the background, set up as mentioned in step 1) of this guide with the sensors expanded. Because apart from the CPU temperatures, the GPU and other temperatures (SSD, RAM, System...) are of course also important. A GPU can take quite high temperatures, and for some cards it's not unusual or concerning to see high 80°C there under load, that can be pretty normal. But it shouldn't cause excessive temperatures for other parts. So while thinking about achieving a good balance of temperatures vs. noise, it's good to keep the entire system in mind, for example in a gaming scenario, and not only test full CPU load.


Each fan model has a different RPM range and therefore needs different values or voltages to reach a certain airflow. Also, each different PWM-controlled fan model can interpret the PWM signal differently. This is because some mainboards don't allow a PWM signal lower than 20% for example, to never have the fan turn off. So to circumvent that, a fan maker might decide to let the fan interpret a 20% PWM signal from the mainboard as "still turned off", and turn on at 21% PWM. Another fan might interpret 0% PWM as the turn off signal and 1% as the lowest possible RPM, or may never turn off and just map the entire PWM signal range to the lowest and highest RPM. And all variations in between.

Here's an example of an Arctic fan which has implemented a semi-passive mode, it stays off with any PWM signal below 5%:

These Arctic P12/P14 PWM PST are very good fans by the way, almost unbeatable in price/performance.

Another example of a fan with a semi-passive mode is this Noiseblocker one, which has the following PWM-signal-to-fan-speed mapping (depending on the variant):

So for each fan model, you will need different PWM values (and for 3-pin ones, different voltages), but just go by airflow and noise.
And the concept of the fan curve is always the same.

Once you're done, it's a good idea to write down your settings or make a screenshot/picture of them (in the BIOS, F12 saves a screenshot to a FAT32-formatted USB drive).
Because whenever the BIOS settings are reset (due to BIOS update, CMOS Clear or empty battery), you'll need your notes or pictures to know what fan curves you had before.
Although in BIOS updates for newer boards, the fan curves are actually kept between updates nowadays, which is good.

My other guides:
RAM explained: Why two modules are better than four / single- vs. dual-rank / stability testing
Guide: How to set good power limits in the BIOS and reduce the CPU power draw
Guide: How to find a good PSU

Someone asked me if they can thank me for my work by sending me something via Paypal: Yes, that's possible, just write me a message and i'll tell you my Paypal

 

[citay]

Yeah, it's one of the best (but also most expensive) models, certainly for this wattage range. 80 PLUS Titanium efficiency is the thing that drives up cost, they have to use quite advanced technology to reach that. I just like to have a really nice PSU. But as i said, i will stick with my PSU for now, there is no need for a new one.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

Yeah, it's one of the best (but also most expensive) models, certainly for this wattage range. 80 PLUS Titanium efficiency is the thing that drives up cost, they have to use quite advanced technology to reach that. I just like to have a really nice PSU. But as i said, i will stick with my PSU for now, there is no need for a new y

Do I still contact you about the fan curve with my cpu temperatures rising to far under Cinebench r23, while using light videos to multitasking, thread about making a fan curve to reach half rpm and 60c+ temperature setup for the last needed fan curve, however the bench proved that 10 minutes the aio on low quiet has my speeds not even running the software at 50-60c on cpu. therefore i cant use a 35-55 cpu curve of half speed. with restarting the pc has issues of rising to 70c on normal restart boot after installing a chipset driver on pc. id include the cinebench to the system attachment on like rpms listed in hwinfo.

 

[ron-rono159702e1]

Right now my favorite would probably be the FSP Hydro Ti Pro ATX 3.0, these models did very well in reviews like here. The wattage starts from 850W though, which is quite overkill for my needs. Also, since i have a high-end PSU to begin with, and it's not old yet, it makes little sense to buy a new PSU now.

And at what speeds should the pump still work if it is connected to the 4-pin connector on the board?

 

[citay]

AIO pumps can be very different, it depends on the model. Some are not meant to be fan-controlled, but a lot of others can be fan-controlled according to the CPU temperature, so the pump makes less noise at lower temperatures. The pump speed will generally be higher than the fan speed, because the pump is a lot smaller than a fan. Anyway, without knowing your cooler model, i can't be more specific than this. If you want to know exactly, read some reviews of your AIO, often times they test such things (if they are good reviewers).

 

[ron-rono159702e1]

AIO pumps can be very different, it depends on the model. Some are not meant to be fan-controlled, but a lot of others can be fan-controlled according to the CPU temperature, so the pump makes less noise at lower temperatures. The pump speed will generally be higher than the fan speed, because the pump is a lot smaller than a fan. Anyway, without knowing your cooler model, i can't be more specific than this. If you want to know exactly, read some reviews of your AIO, often times they test such things (if they are good reviewers).

You are right, but unfortunately reviews almost never write about speed settings, more about appearance and test results in comparison with other models. There are no instructions on the manufacturer's website either, only an illustrated installation guide. They do not answer questions. Having searched the Internet, I see that many users are inclined to believe that the pump should operate at constant speeds close to maximum, since frequent changes in the number of revolutions are harmful to it. And in the BIOS for the pump, you need to set a straight line, not a curved line. Therefore, I decided to ask you, as an expert, for your opinion. My cooling system model is THERMALTAKE TH360 V2 ARGB Sync. With respect.

P.S. Cools the i7-14700K processor. I configured the case fans according to your diagram.

 

[citay]

Usually you can check the specifications from the manufacturer's website about the model. For yours it says about the pump:

So you can fan-control it via PWM signal between 1500 and 3300 RPM. Lower speeds for idle, higher speeds when the CPU gets hot.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

Ok, that was a bit difficult to read, but let's see if i can answer some things here.



Yes, if you have a 3-pin fan, it needs to be DC- (voltage-) controlled, not with a PWM signal. PWM control only works with 4-pin fans. If you try to send a PWM signal to a 3-pin fan, it doesn't have the fourth wire for it and it will just stay at the full 12V, so it will spin at maximum RPM.

You only ever set the voltage (3-pin) or PWM percentage (4-pin), never the RPM directly, that's impossible because each fan model behaves differently. Also, different fans perform differently at the same RPM, if you compare things like airflow, static pressure, noise and so on (important parameters for fan performance). One fan at 1000 RPM has different results than another model of fan also at 1000 RPM.



1000 RPM for what? Idle / in the BIOS? That's a bit much. As you may have seen on the screenshots in the first post, my fans are below 500 RPM in idle. Because think about it, why would you need a lot of airflow in idle? Nothing is getting hot, so all it does is create more airflow and noise than necessary in that situation, and cause more dust buildup in the system over time. So that's why you would set a fan curve, to have peace and quiet when there's nothing going on anyway, and then the fans can ramp up to higher speeds if the CPU gets hot under load.



What's your AIO model? Where are the fans connected?



Fixed fan speeds aren't good for much. Also you don't need to match any other fan's speeds, the GPU fans are quite different from case fans. Basically you need to get away from the fixation of a certain RPM, and look more of the temperatures and the noise. Normally, if you bought a GPU with a good cooler, then you can leave its fan curve exactly as it is from factory. If the GPU fans are too annoying for you, or they switch on and off a lot under certain load, then you may have to set a custom fan curve for them. I would orient myself at the existing fan curve, just tweak it in some important places.



47°C would be very high for an Intel CPU in idle, maybe less unusual for an AMD CPU. So you see, i first need to know all your hardware in detail if you want me to help you in detail. Maybe also a photo of your system, so i can see where the fans and coolers are. Otherwise it's difficult to make specific recommendations. The only thing i can tell you already, 1000 RPM in idle, there is no need for that, it should start lower.

Can you adjust my rpm for idle ( 55c temperature of GPU if its on 20% speed under 600rpms fully but could be added 10% more for 39-41c of 900rpm), adjust inside bios to run the zero percent fan on gpu and still get the idle on both parts ? make recommendations for no spin ups during case fan current rpm under 600, probably needs to stay at 38c no matter how much it reaches during this stage both gpu curves to fine if its on and close to not hearing the fans, the only thing u recommended before was set it quiet, and no loud fan spins under mininum hardware fan changes for 40c-30c cpu.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

40-50°C GPU temperature in idle is normal for your card. Just prevent the fans from spinning up periodically in idle, by setting a higher temperature for the fans to turn on. Or set a very low fan curve for such temperatures, if you rather have the fans running constantly.



For me, i want to see all fans individually, even if i set them to the same fan curve. This way, i can see in HWinfo what is going on at all times, all fans are shown.

For your AIO, the best you can do is to experiment where you connect the fans. Connect it in a different way and see which way you like best. One way will probably allow to you set all the fan curves in the BIOS, and the other way will require the Corsair software. This is specific to your AIO, so i can't really give good recommendations without sitting in front of that system and seeing how it all works together. I can only give advice how i would set up a fan curve. I hope you got enough information about that now to come up with a good configuration.

liquid temperature is slowly going up, from 31c to just not using the pc reaches 36c, with the balanced profile on icue, 2080 rpms, it wont cool down, unless you add 880 rpm for the air to get out of the case, after long term use i still change it to run quiet + 880 rpms on top exhaust, might i change the rear case fan set too on bios fan curve only for that rear exhaust fan? i wanted to get cool water temp.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

Ok, that was a bit difficult to read, but let's see if i can answer some things here.



Yes, if you have a 3-pin fan, it needs to be DC- (voltage-) controlled, not with a PWM signal. PWM control only works with 4-pin fans. If you try to send a PWM signal to a 3-pin fan, it doesn't have the fourth wire for it and it will just stay at the full 12V, so it will spin at maximum RPM.

You only ever set the voltage (3-pin) or PWM percentage (4-pin), never the RPM directly, that's impossible because each fan model behaves differently. Also, different fans perform differently at the same RPM, if you compare things like airflow, static pressure, noise and so on (important parameters for fan performance). One fan at 1000 RPM has different results than another model of fan also at 1000 RPM.



1000 RPM for what? Idle / in the BIOS? That's a bit much. As you may have seen on the screenshots in the first post, my fans are below 500 RPM in idle. Because think about it, why would you need a lot of airflow in idle? Nothing is getting hot, so all it does is create more airflow and noise than necessary in that situation, and cause more dust buildup in the system over time. So that's why you would set a fan curve, to have peace and quiet when there's nothing going on anyway, and then the fans can ramp up to higher speeds if the CPU gets hot under load.



What's your AIO model? Where are the fans connected?



Fixed fan speeds aren't good for much. Also you don't need to match any other fan's speeds, the GPU fans are quite different from case fans. Basically you need to get away from the fixation of a certain RPM, and look more of the temperatures and the noise. Normally, if you bought a GPU with a good cooler, then you can leave its fan curve exactly as it is from factory. If the GPU fans are too annoying for you, or they switch on and off a lot under certain load, then you may have to set a custom fan curve for them. I would orient myself at the existing fan curve, just tweak it in some important places.



47°C would be very high for an Intel CPU in idle, maybe less unusual for an AMD CPU. So you see, i first need to know all your hardware in detail if you want me to help you in detail. Maybe also a photo of your system, so i can see where the fans and coolers are. Otherwise it's difficult to make specific recommendations. The only thing i can tell you already, 1000 RPM in idle, there is no need for that, it should start lower.

Can you describe the tweak to the idle gpu fan curve change for it to be happier while its on, factory setting. Leave the fan at that, but continue to keep the case cool, makes sense, just doesnt seem to stay low enough before the click comes on and loads of sounds appear every minute or so, the other type is the card has a normal mode for it to function on no rpm, graphics cards dont say what works, like gigabytes frozer zero rpm, or brands that produce the loads of rtx 3000series.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

I see,
Here is the curve so far, by middle you mean mostly messing with the 30c to 50c dots?
View attachment 197174

As for different fan conditions and types, while the CPU fan is obviously different from the two upper fans, and definitely somewhat blocked by the heatsink,
Does it still recommended to keep it or the upper top fans at 200 rpm different from each other? or should I adjust one of them like the top fans so they will slow down a bit to be closer to the CPU's even if the temp is the same?
Consider I don't hear them much at 600-650 rpm, and that the CPU fan also at 600 rpm most of the times, won't it be better?

 Though the upper fans got their own job taking out the hot air so maybe they do need to be faster than the CPU's, but as I'm uncertain in it considered I'm no expert in these kind stuff I rather wait for your answer (sorry if I'm making something obvious sound more harder than it should be xD).

Do you recommend that you put 30c top exhaust fan curves + 50c top fan curves exhaust fans on a couple hundred difference if its AIO controlled ? or Back fan is a case fan just let that link up with the aio / case fans running intake, on more value rpm?

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

So you get different RPM for the intake vs. the exhaust fans, on the same exact fan curve, is what you're saying? And these are identical fans? Well, fans naturally have a bit of a variance/tolerance in RPM, they are never 100% the same. Then, the RPM is also influenced by something being in the way, either in front or behind the fan.

Of course, if the fans are different models, then this is completely normal. They all behave differently to the same PWM percentage or DC voltage. To start with, different fan models have different RPM ranges. For one PWM fan, it might go up to 1600 RPM, another fan model might go up to 2000 RPM. So right there, for a 100% PWM signal, you have 400 RPM delta between the two fan models. And according to their amount of rotor blades and their geometry, they will additionally differ in the air they move at a certain RPM. So with different fan models, you don't aim for them to have the exact same RPM, you only set them so that the end result is good. Good temperatures at as low noise as possible. Just a bit of trial and error.

If i use a fan that is the same brand for each fan setting on the curve i dont go identical pwm percentage or dc voltage likely on its exact number of RPM, if you want it to have 500 fyi just type it the same percentage, could work, but in theory u want it to run the extra rpms? a 1500 rpm fan intake set to 500 is 34% on curve, and a 1700 fan for 500 at 30celcius for it at 29% so if its lower to match the first intake set is that incorrect? are you saying to differ those two to meet or not meet in boot up?

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

After some time testing the noise, I think I've found the sweetspot for my top fans
View attachment 197651

I can use smart fan mode but with volt for DC fans too right?
I was thinking of trying set something for the rear fan, but wonder if I should (default settings):
View attachment 197652
Maybe I should set it to be around 600 RPM on low stress and 1200 to its max RPM on very streessed times?

how much more rpm is ur cpu fans?

 

[citay]

Can you describe the tweak to the idle gpu fan curve change for it to be happier while its on, factory setting. Leave the fan at that, but continue to keep the case cool, makes sense, just doesnt seem to stay low enough before the click comes on and loads of sounds appear every minute or so,

If your GPU fans come on under low GPU load (not in a game, just browsing or playing a video), then you either need to tweak the GPU fan curve seperately (for example in AMD Adrenalin for a Radeon or in MSI Afterburner for a GeForce), or you can experiment with setting the case fans a bit higher to keep the GPU cooler. But to me, it would make more sense to define a custom fan curve for the GPU fans, to prevent them from coming on intermittently while you're not gaming.

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

If your GPU fans come on under low GPU load (not in a game, just browsing or playing a video), then you either need to tweak the GPU fan curve seperately (for example in AMD Adrenalin for a Radeon or in MSI Afterburner for a GeForce), or you can experiment with setting the case fans a bit higher to keep the GPU cooler. But to me, it would make more sense to define a custom fan curve for the GPU fans, to prevent them from coming on intermittently while you're not gaming.

Could you point me to a example of the custom fan curve id like to keep it on full time at 30% three fan blades, or at around 41c, during a game 72c on overclock. but in that case its still set for my custom curve atm, quiet profile mostly i dont know the second point of % and temp readout, maybe 64celcius or 60celcius?

 

[Changeemailaccount2025]

Can anyone tell me the problem with the idle temperature for my system, has during a game for 25 min the fans still are ramping up to 740rpm when its on a temperature of 35c starting, and fourty celcius is not supposed to read anymore than its set in bios fan headers, during the temp readout its also has +200 for top exhaust added so its too much noise, could i just start the curve on 40c #1 and 500 rpm for it solid during minor loads under 45% start up or would it not make any differrence during the beginning and middle of using the computer for 5c increase????

 

[ron-rono159702e1]

Usually you can check the specifications from the manufacturer's website about the model. For yours it says about the pump:

View attachment 201093

So you can fan-control it via PWM signal between 1500 and 3300 RPM. Lower speeds for idle, higher speeds when the CPU gets hot.

Thanks, I saw it. My question sounded different. Many users believe that the pump should always rotate at a constant speed close to the maximum. What do you, as an expert, think about this?

 

[citay]

Could you point me to a example of the custom fan curve id like to keep it on full time at 30% three fan blades, or at around 41c, during a game 72c on overclock. but in that case its still set for my custom curve atm, quiet profile mostly i dont know the second point of % and temp readout, maybe 64celcius or 60celcius?

Each graphics card uses a different set of fans and fan curve. Normally you would take the default fan curve as a baseline to work off of, and modify it so it so it allows a bit higher temperatures before the fans start to spin. Usually, when you're not playing a game, they don't need to come on at all. So when they come on for a second or two when you watch a video for example, just allow slightly higher temperature for that state.

You can read a review of the card where they test the cooler, for example here: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/?category=Graphics+Cards&manufacturer=&pp=25&order=date
They tend to compare the coolers to other cards with the same GPU, so you get an idea if the fan curves are set well or not, and how well the cooler performs.

during the temp readout its also has +200 for top exhaust added so its too much noise,

As long as the temperatures are low enough, you can prioritize low noise levels, i do the same. The CPU doesn't care too much if it runs at 35°C or 45°C, no need to cool it much at all at these kinds of temperatures. So if you get annoying noise there, lower the fan curve for those temperatures.

Thanks, I saw it. My question sounded different. Many users believe that the pump should always rotate at a constant speed close to the maximum. What do you, as an expert, think about this?

I don't really see the point. If someone presents me with some kind of study that varying pump speeds are somehow bad for pump longevity, that would be a different thing, but i have not heard of such a thing yet. For the cooling, it's not really necessary to circulate the coolant at a high rate when the CPU doesn't produce much heat. So much like the fans on the radiator, if the manufacturer allows for it, you can lower the pump speed to enjoy a lower noise level and lower power draw for the pump motor.