Hibernate resume keeps failing plus no option to boot into UEFI - MPG Z490 Gaming plus

[alexncfc]

My motherboard (MPG Z490 Gaming Plus, Intel i7 10700F, 32GB RAM) seems to have some intermittent problems, but lately have been happening more often than not. I don't think they're linked, but when this happens they both seem to be issues at the same time.

Firstly, I use hibernate all the time - it's quick and convenient, and I like to resume from where I left off. Except for the past few weeks, hibernate's resume fails 9 times out of 10. On the odd occasion it might work, but most of the time resume fails with a number of Event Log entries including:

Error: BL_LOG_ERROR_RES_INVALID_MEM_MAP: The memory map has changed since associated cold boot. Status: {Operation Failed}
The requested operation was unsuccessful.

Now this happened once before for a period, but then it just seemed to go away. Now though, it's pretty much every time my system will do a clean boot rather than resuming from hibernation. I have tried re-creating hiberfil.sys with Powercfg from the command line, to no avail.

The other issue is, when you do Windows Advanced Start Up (either from Windows settings, or holding shift+restart from the Start menu), it never shows the option to boot into UEFI from that startup menu. It *has* shown it before, but again, this seems completely random, and I'd say more often than not. Why is this?

I should mention that the system is in UEFI mode, CSM is not enabled in any shape or form and Windows is also installed and started in UEFI mode. I know the second isn't a major issue, but the Hibernate issue is really starting to get on my nerves.

Any advice? Thank you!

 

[ericj159802e9]

I want to focus on the system disk. Try running chkdsk/f from an elevated command prompt and see it reports and fixes problems with the file system. Nest step is to run sfc/scannow from the elevated command prompt and see what that brings.

And last but not least check the health of your system disk using CrystalDiskInfo.

 

[plutomate]

The other issue is, when you do Windows Advanced Start Up (either from Windows settings, or holding shift+restart from the Start menu), it never shows the option to boot into UEFI from that startup menu. It *has* shown it before, but again, this seems completely random, and I'd say more often than not. Why is this?

I don't know why, but what you could do is to simply execute the following command in cmd(admin) and system will reboot directly into BIOS.
shutdown -fw -r -t 0
sometimes, you will need to enter twice to avoid this message,
"the system cannot find the environment option that was entered"

 

[citay]

Could you list your hardware including SSD model, RAM kit model and PSU model, as well as the BIOS version?

 

[alexncfc]

I want to focus on the system disk. Try running chkdsk/f from an elevated command prompt and see it reports and fixes problems with the file system. Nest step is to run sfc/scannow from the elevated command prompt and see what that brings.

And last but not least check the health of your system disk using CrystalDiskInfo.

I'll give those a try, thanks.

 

[alexncfc]

I don't know why, but what you could do is to simply execute the following command in cmd(admin) and system will reboot directly into BIOS.
shutdown -fw -r -t 0
sometimes, you will need to enter twice to avoid this message,
"the system cannot find the environment option that was entered"

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately I've already tried this, I set up a shortcut specifically to go into the BIOS with shutdown -fw -r -t 0 but that "the system cannot find the environment option that was entered" error shows every single time. With a number at the end which I can't recall - sod's law is in full effect, as I went to run it just now to get the error code and it restarted into the BIOS. I just don't understand why it works sometimes but mostly not.

 

[alexncfc]

Could you list your hardware including SSD model, RAM kit model and PSU model, as well as the BIOS version?

Sure, just going to copy the information from various programs:

Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 10700F @ 2.90GHz 60 °C
Comet Lake 14nm Technology
RAM
32.0GB Dual-Channel DDR4 @ 1333MHz (16-18-18-35)
Motherboard
Micro-Star International Co., Ltd. MPG Z490 GAMING PLUS (MS-7C75) (U3E1) 41 °C
Graphics
R241Y (1920x1080@60Hz)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti (ASUStek Computer Inc) 40 °C
Storage
931GB Western Digital WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 (NVME)
1863GB Seagate ST2000DM006-2DM164 (SATA ) 32 °C
931GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO 1TB (SATA (SSD)) 25 °C
967MB Generic Flash Disk USB Device (USB )

BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. A.F1, 15/04/2026
DIMM # 1
SMBus address 0x51
Memory type DDR4
Module format UDIMM
Module Manufacturer(ID) Corsair (0x029E)
SDRAM Manufacturer (ID) Samsung (0x80CE)
Size 16384 MBytes
Ranks 2
Stepping 0xFF
Max bandwidth DDR4-2666 (1333 MHz)
Max JEDEC DDR4-2133 (1066 MHz)
Part number CMK32GX4M2A2666C16
Nominal Voltage 1.20 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes, rev. 2.0
AMP no
EXPO no

DIMM # 2
SMBus address 0x53
Memory type DDR4
Module format UDIMM
Module Manufacturer(ID) Corsair (0x029E)
SDRAM Manufacturer (ID) Samsung (0x80CE)
Size 16384 MBytes
Ranks 2
Stepping 0xFF
Max bandwidth DDR4-2666 (1333 MHz)
Max JEDEC DDR4-2133 (1066 MHz)
Part number CMK32GX4M2A2666C16
Nominal Voltage 1.20 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes, rev. 2.0
AMP no
EXPO no

and the PSU is a EVGA 500W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply

If I've missed anything please let me know. Thanks!

 

[citay]

Ok, let's see...

Intel Core i7 10700F @ 2.90GHz 60 °C

Is that supposed to be the idle temperature? If so, that would be unusually high.

2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti (ASUStek Computer Inc) 40 °C

Positively ancient, came out in 2012, chances are that UEFI support is only rudimentary. But may not be related, since the issue only started to happen recently.

Are you using these drivers? https://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/475.14/475.14-win11-win10-release-notes.pdf
They are the latest ones for GTX 600- & 700-series.

Part number CMK32GX4M2A2666C16

Some DDR4-2666, should pose no problem.

and the PSU is a EVGA 500W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply

Can you look up the exact model? Could be a BQ for example.

Lastly, you're still on Win10, that's not ideal either.

Can you enter the BIOS normally, via DEL key?

 

[alexncfc]

Ok, let's see...



Is that supposed to be the idle temperature? If so, that would be unusually high.



Positively ancient, came out in 2012, chances are that UEFI support is only rudimentary. But may not be related, since the issue only started to happen recently.

Are you using these drivers? https://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/475.14/475.14-win11-win10-release-notes.pdf
They are the latest ones for GTX 600- & 700-series.



Some DDR4-2666, should pose no problem.



Can you look up the exact model? Could be a BQ for example.

Lastly, you're still on Win10, that's not ideal either.

Can you enter the BIOS normally, via DEL key?

Sorry I can't figure out how to do the quoting the same way you did it on here!
Thanks for your reply.

Is that supposed to be the idle temperature? If so, that would be unusually high.

This is idle but it will usually be sat in the 40s-50s at idle - although this is something I've struggled with, I use the stock Intel heatsink and fan and I have had a thing ever since I put this PC together where the CPU fan seems to ramp up and down a lot, like even if I just have Word open with a document, the CPU fan keeps ramping up and down. I finally got around to trying to sort it by asking ChatGPT to help me, and it suggested fan curves in the BIOS. But perhaps you would be able to better help me with this? Ideally I do want a quiet system, and don't want to fan to be ramping up and down all the time when I'm not actually doing much!

Positively ancient, came out in 2012, chances are that UEFI support is only rudimentary. But may not be related, since the issue only started to happen recently.

Agreed, I'm aware it is ancient by todays standards. It was actually given to me around 5 or 6 years ago, is the definite weak link in the system, and I wish I could afford to upgrade it. When I put the system together I had intended to use Intel's graphics on the CPU, but wasn't aware when I got the 10700F that I wouldn't be able to do this as it has no on-CPU graphics. But I did update the GTX 660 BIOS to be UEFI compatible a while back, but then even that support probably isn't great. Ideally something I want to replace, but everything is too expensive at the moment. I am also using those latest/final drivers for the card which you linked to.

Can you look up the exact model? Could be a BQ for example.

Not sure if this is the model, but looking back through my e-mails for the order, it has this next to it on the order: 100-B1-0500-KR

Thank you for your advice.

 

[citay]

Sorry I can't figure out how to do the quoting the same way you did it on here!

Highlight the text you want to quote, and then a "Reply" will appear at the bottom right of the selection.

This is idle but it will usually be sat in the 40s-50s at idle - although this is something I've struggled with, I use the stock Intel heatsink and fan

The boxed cooler isn't very good, yes. Especially for an i7, it is assumed that the buyer will use a more powerful cooler. In more recent boxed CPUs, they don't even include a boxed cooler anymore.

he CPU fan seems to ramp up and down a lot, like even if I just have Word open with a document, the CPU fan keeps ramping up and down. I finally got around to trying to sort it by asking ChatGPT to help me, and it suggested fan curves in the BIOS. But perhaps you would be able to better help me with this? Ideally I do want a quiet system, and don't want to fan to be ramping up and down all the time when I'm not actually doing much!

ChatGPT is probably both right and wrong. The main problem is the under-dimensioned cooler for the cooling requirements of an 8-core / 16-thread i7. Even with such an "officially 65W" CPU, for around half a minute, it will be allowed to draw close to 140W (it was discussed a bit here). Which is too much heat output for a boxed cooler to deal with, this is squarely in decent-tower-cooler territory. So if you have a short burst of load, the fan(s) can ramp up, especially so if the fan curves are not set properly.

Now, another issue especially with the boxed cooler can be thermal paste or the thermal pad having hardened over the years. Then, instead of bridging the microscopic air gaps between the CPU's heatspreader and the bottom of the cooler, it will act as more of a thermal insulator. In such cases, you would need to take off the cooler, carefully scrape off the hardened stuff everywhere (but not with a metal tool) and clean it with isopropyl alcohol, then apply new thermal paste and mount it again. But here, I would suggest to straight-up swap the cooler with a better one, something like this for example.

When I put the system together I had intended to use Intel's graphics on the CPU, but wasn't aware when I got the 10700F that I wouldn't be able to do this as it has no on-CPU graphics.

Yes, common mistake, people just go for the cheaper CPU model, but it's always cheaper for a reason. With the -F models they can sell CPUs with a defective (and disabled) iGPU.

Not sure if this is the model, but looking back through my e-mails for the order, it has this next to it on the order: 100-B1-0500-KR

EVGA B1, yeah, not a very good model I'm afraid, see here and the following post. It may very well be involved in your problem, because it plays an important role in sleep/hibernation in that it has to provide stable standby power for the PC to wake up properly with all the data still intact. It's possible that, due to the inevitable ageing of the electrolytic capacitors inside PSUs as explained in my PSU guide (which further gets accelerated in cheap PSUs because they use cheaper capacitor models and they get hotter), it has deteriorated enough by now that the OS cannot exit hibernation properly anymore.

With a Tier E (or F) PSU, I would recommend to outright replace it with a new, higher-quality model. If you want, you can test with a borrowed PSU first to make sure. But this B1 came out like 13 years ago, with a three-year warranty, and wasn't a good model to begin with. It's time for electronics recycling.

 

[alexncfc]

The boxed cooler isn't very good, yes. Especially for an i7, it is assumed that the buyer will use a more powerful cooler. In more recent boxed CPUs, they don't even include a boxed cooler anymore.

Thanks for confirming. The thing is, I did actually buy a Cooler Master tower cooler (Hyper H412R) a few years ago for this very CPU and board, but I haven't got around to fitting it. I've lost confidence in myself with computers in recent years and just feel it'd probably be quite a pain to fit, having to clean off all the old compound, etc. Maybe it's simpler than I am thinking?

EVGA B1, yeah, not a very good model I'm afraid, see here and the following post. It may very well be involved in your problem, because it plays an important role in sleep/hibernation in that it has to provide stable standby power for the PC to wake up properly with all the data still intact. It's possible that, due to the inevitable ageing of the electrolytic capacitors inside PSUs as explained in my PSU guide (which further gets accelerated in cheap PSUs because they use cheaper capacitor models and they get hotter), it has deteriorated enough by now that the OS cannot exit hibernation properly anymore.

With a Tier E (or F) PSU, I would recommend to outright replace it with a new, higher-quality model. If you want, you can test with a borrowed PSU first to make sure. But this B1 came out like 13 years ago, with a three-year warranty, and wasn't a good model to begin with. It's time for electronics recycling.

To be honest, I am using the PSU from my previous build from 2015 (Asus H81MK with an i5) and I recall it being a fairly good quality PSU at the time of putting that machine together and I've never had any issues with it, but maybe it does need replacing - what tier is my PSU currently? I wasn't even aware there were different tiers. But as I said initially, there have been periods of time where hibernate's resume works fine for months on end. Also I should mention, I notice that if I was to hibernate, leave the system off but plugged in and on at the mains, then resume always works. But if I hibernate and then unplug at the mains, that is when it tends to fail. It's really odd.

Forgot to reply to some parts of your previous post, yes I can enter the BIOS by hitting Del on boot so that isn't a problem, but I was just curious as to why it doesn't always show the UEFI option on the advanced startup screen from Windows, or via the shutdown command. Wasn't sure what could be causing that to be so intermittent. Also, I am still using Windows 10 because for now it is still supported and I prefer it over Windows 11. I will update to 11 eventually, but I do like Windows 10 for now.

 

[citay]

I've lost confidence in myself with computers in recent years and just feel it'd probably be quite a pain to fit, having to clean off all the old compound, etc. Maybe it's simpler than I am thinking?

Well, it's not a 5-minute-job, but it's not rocket science either. Just watch a couple videos first, here are some, https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+install+Hyper+H412R

And there's of course this general video, it doesn't deal with your specific cooler, but you can learn how a lot of such tower coolers are usually mounted.

After watching a few of these videos, you should be good to go. To clean the surfaces (CPU and cooler baseplate, or just the CPU in this case), I always use soft lint-free paper towels for a rough clean, then Q-tips dipped in high-purity isopropanol to really clean it to perfection. Then i just put a big enough blob or a vertical line of new heatpaste onto the middle of the new CPU, similar to what's shown here, which will be spread by the cooler once the screws are tightened (tightening them by alternating back-and-forth between the screws, one or two turns each). Your cooler probably includes a small tube of thermal paste. So you just need some cleaning agent and a screwdriver.

If the old thermal interface material under the Intel boxed cooler has really hardened, you might have to scrape it off a bit more mechanically at first, with an old credit card or something. Difficult to say beforehand. If it's still more of a paste, then some paper towels and Q-tips dipped in isopropyl alcohol will do. Rub them back and forth over the CPU's heatspreader until the first one doesn't turn dark anymore, indicating that most of the old thermal interface material has been removed.

To be honest, I am using the PSU from my previous build from 2015 (Asus H81MK with an i5) and I recall it being a fairly good quality PSU at the time of putting that machine together and I've never had any issues with it, but maybe it does need replacing - what tier is my PSU currently?

The PSU is one of the worst components to re-use (unless it's a high-end model), because they use so many electrolytic capacitors inside them, which are prone to deterioration from ageing. See my PSU guide for more about this.

A PSU always runs problem-free until it doesn't, so that doesn't mean much. The EVGA B1 is classed as "Tier E • Avoid". They had low confidence in this model, giving it only three years warranty (a lot of higher-end PSUs come with ten years warranty nowadays, and five years is usually where the good models start). You are now using it for 11 years. What this means is, for sure some some of the electrolyte has escaped from the capacitors. So they can't do their job of filtering and buffering the voltages that well anymore, leading to higher voltage ripple (you can think of it as noise, it stresses the attached hardware) and less capacitance / ability to react to any load changes for example. Even the standby operation can be affected, such as what you need for sleep/hibernation. And it is quite common for PSU-related issues to creep in slowly, just like what you described in your first post.

I would 100% recommend to replace this PSU, it shouldn't have even been re-used, since it was a bad model to begin with. When you buy a nice PSU model, you can re-use it of course, because they will use better capacitor models (nice Japanese ones instead of cheap Chinese ones) that have a much longer lifetime expectancy, and the PSU will be more efficient, meaning, less energy is lost as heat inside the PSU, and the capacitors stay cooler, again prolonging their life.

With a low-end PSU, it slowly turns into a ticking time bomb, so when you re-use it, you only take over potential problems into the new PC.

Forgot to reply to some parts of your previous post, yes I can enter the BIOS by hitting Del on boot so that isn't a problem, but I was just curious as to why it doesn't always show the UEFI option on the advanced startup screen from Windows, or via the shutdown command. Wasn't sure what could be causing that to be so intermittent.

I never use any of that, I always just press DEL if I want to enter the BIOS. You only have to think of other ways if you can't enter it with DEL for some reason.

Also, I am still using Windows 10 because for now it is still supported and I prefer it over Windows 11. I will update to 11 eventually, but I do like Windows 10 for now.

Are you on extended support? Otherwise, either subscribe to it, or upgrade to Win11. You can use ExplorerPatcher and OpenShellMenu to make Win11 look and feel like you want it to (I have it as a mix of Win7 and Win10, basically), and ShutUp10++ to disable telemetry and AI functions, if so desired. With those tools and a bit of fiddling, Win11 really isn't all that bad. Out of the box, yeah, it's not ideal.

 

[dvair]

Since you are running Windows 10, are 100% sure that the BIOS is in UEFI mode? Can't hurt to double check.