(I was updating the bios of my pc with the Dragon center and this happened)

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

tengo un ordenador de sobremesa el cual ayer cuando estaba actualizando e instalando controladores y una actulazicación de la bios y tras reiniciar el disco de mi ordenador como si estuviera de fábrica por otro problema que tuve, me fui 1h lejos de el , pero el caso es que cuando vuelvo la pantalla está en negro, los periféricos están apagados y por mas que los toco ni se activan ni se muestra nada en pantalla, aunque los led de encendido del ordenador están todos funcionando, Reinicio de manera forzosa el ordenador un par de veces y sigue pasando lo mismo, y encima la tipica pantalla inicial de cuando enciendes un ordenador, en la que aparece para ir a la bios, ni aparece, solo se queda en negro la pantalla. He probado a quitar la gráfica y conectar el HDMI directo a la placa pero sigue ocurriendo lo mismo, ¿que me ha pasado? ¿Y que puedo hacer para solucionarlo y no tener que comprar otro pc? Ya probé a quitar la pila e intente conectar un usb con una BIOS de la pagina oficial pero lo primero no funciono y para lo segundo al menos debería bootear el sistema, para poder instalar la del pincho pero es que no bootea nada.

I have a desktop computer which yesterday when I was updating and installing drivers and a BIOS update and after restarting the disk of my computer as if it were factory reset by another problem that I had, I went 1h away from it, but the case is that when I come back the screen is black, the peripherals are off and no matter how much I touch them they do not activate or show anything on the screen, although the power LEDs of the computer are all working, I forcefully restart the computer a couple of times and the same thing keeps happening, and on top of that the typical initial screen of when you turn on a computer, in which it appears to go to the bios, does not appear, it just stays black the screen. I tried to remove the graphics card and connect the HDMI directly to the motherboard but the same thing keeps happening, what happened to me? And what can I do to fix it and not have to buy another pc? I already tried to remove the battery and try to connect a USB with a BIOS from the official page but the first thing did not work and for the second thing at least it should boot the system, to be able to install the one from the stick but it does not boot anything

 

[artur.aragao@outlook.com.br]

tengo un ordenador de sobremesa el cual ayer cuando estaba actualizando e instalando controladores y una actulazicación de la bios y tras reiniciar el disco de mi ordenador como si estuviera de fábrica por otro problema que tuve, me fui 1h lejos de el , pero el caso es que cuando vuelvo la pantalla está en negro, los periféricos están apagados y por mas que los toco ni se activan ni se muestra nada en pantalla, aunque los led de encendido del ordenador están todos funcionando, Reinicio de manera forzosa el ordenador un par de veces y sigue pasando lo mismo, y encima la tipica pantalla inicial de cuando enciendes un ordenador, en la que aparece para ir a la bios, ni aparece, solo se queda en negro la pantalla. He probado a quitar la gráfica y conectar el HDMI directo a la placa pero sigue ocurriendo lo mismo, ¿que me ha pasado? ¿Y que puedo hacer para solucionarlo y no tener que comprar otro pc? Ya probé a quitar la pila e intente conectar un usb con una BIOS de la pagina oficial pero lo primero no funciono y para lo segundo al menos debería bootear el sistema, para poder instalar la del pincho pero es que no bootea nada.

I have a desktop computer which yesterday when I was updating and installing drivers and a BIOS update and after restarting the disk of my computer as if it were factory reset by another problem that I had, I went 1h away from it, but the case is that when I come back the screen is black, the peripherals are off and no matter how much I touch them they do not activate or show anything on the screen, although the power LEDs of the computer are all working, I forcefully restart the computer a couple of times and the same thing keeps happening, and on top of that the typical initial screen of when you turn on a computer, in which it appears to go to the bios, does not appear, it just stays black the screen. I tried to remove the graphics card and connect the HDMI directly to the motherboard but the same thing keeps happening, what happened to me? And what can I do to fix it and not have to buy another pc? I already tried to remove the battery and try to connect a USB with a BIOS from the official page but the first thing did not work and for the second thing at least it should boot the system, to be able to install the one from the stick but it does not boot anything

My dear, try this here.

- Turn off the source using the source button;
- Remove the power cable from the source;
- Press the Clear CMOS button (for mainboards that have this button) or short the two Clear CMOS pins. If you have a jumper to close, the better. Keep it tight or with the short closed for a period of 3 to 5 minutes (I left it 10 minutes);
- Take your finger off the Clear CMOS button or remove the short from the Clear CMOS pins;
- Replace the power cable in the source;
- Turn the source switch button to the ON position.

See if that helps.

 

[citay]

Please list all your hardware in detail. Please also state if any of the EZ Debug LEDs stay lit, above the 24-pin ATX plug header. English only please.

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

My dear, try this here.

- Turn off the source using the source button;
- Remove the power cable from the source;
- Press the Clear CMOS button (for mainboards that have this button) or short the two Clear CMOS pins. If you have a jumper to close, the better. Keep it tight or with the short closed for a period of 3 to 5 minutes (I left it 10 minutes);
- Take your finger off the Clear CMOS button or remove the short from the Clear CMOS pins;
- Replace the power cable in the source;
- Turn the source switch button to the ON position.

See if that helps.

I don't have a button to reset the CMOS, how do I do the short circuit?

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

Please list all your hardware in detail. Please also state if any of the EZ Debug LEDs stay lit, above the 24-pin ATX plug header. English only please.

My board doesn't have leds, but I can connect a speaker so that it gives me an audible response to the error. When I get home I'll try it.
I have a ryzen 5 3600, an msi gtx 1660, an 8gb xyperx ram and another from a brand that I don't remember with 8gb tb, finally I have a 250gb kyoxia ssd
Later I will test the speaker and I wrote here again

 

[Alan J T]

I don't have a button to reset the CMOS, how do I do the short circuit?

>>Posting Guide<<
Look in the manual for whatever you have for Clear CMOS and Short the Jumpers labelled JBat1 for 30 seconds

 

[citay]

Since you don't write what motherboard model you have, it's very difficult to help you. So please, again, list all your hardware in detail. Motherboard model, PSU model...

 

[artur.aragao@outlook.com.br]

I don't have a button to reset the CMOS, how do I do the short circuit?

See if you can find a jumper like this one and place it on the two Clear CMOS pins on your mainboard.
look in your mainboard manual where it is located.

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

Since you don't write what motherboard model you have, it's very difficult to help you. So please, again, list all your hardware in detail. Motherboard model, PSU model...

sorry, my psu is in the photo and I have an MSI a320m A pro

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

View attachment 173185
See if you can find a jumper like this one and place it on the two Clear CMOS pins on your mainboard.
look in your mainboard manual where it is located.

I do it and doesnt solve my problem but I recently connected the speaker that I mentioned before, and it beep long 3 times. I was searching in the base manual an doesn´t says aníthing about the meaning of the beeps (I remenber that I have an msi A320 A PRO)

 

[citay]

That is a no-name PSU, one of the PSUs that are only sold in a specific price-sensitive region like Spain/Portugal, because they cannot compete on the worldwide market with such a PSU. I mention such PSUs in the "What to avoid completely" section of my PSU Guide. I would not trust this PSU whatsoever, they tend to use very cheap technology inside which can cause you a lot of problems after a couple of years.

I have an MSI a320m A pro

Finally the information that should've been very promintently in the title or at least in your first post.

You are actually right of it not having EZ Debug LEDs, because it's one of the cheapest MSI board models, based on the cheapest chipset. I always recommend to avoid such board models, because the manufacturer literally tried to save every penny there. It is missing even some basic features, and it's only good for the most entry-level CPUs because of it's very weak VRM and complete lack of VRM heatsinks, so it can overheat quickly.

It does however have a JBAT1 header for performing a Clear CMOS, it's just below the PCIe x16 slot.

8gb xyperx ram and another from a brand that I don't remember with 8gb

It's not good to mix different RAM, because they have different specifications and electrical requirements, but there can only be a single set of parameters for all the RAM in your system. So when you mix two different modules, the single set of parameters automatically becomes a compromise, and it can cause a lot of trouble if the RAM is too different from each other. It's like fitting two different wheels on your bicycle. If they are too different, it won't ride well anymore.

Try with one module in the left slot only, and try both of them individually in the left slot. This is one of the most promising things to try, because i can see how different RAM can cause problems on a different BIOS version.

Your methods for troubleshooting on this board are quite limited, because there is limited indication of what is going on (no EZ Debug LEDs). Personally, i would replace that PSU with a better model, i am pretty certain it's not very good. You can at least test with a different PSU (known good and not too old, decent quality). You can do the RAM test. You can remove your graphics card to see if the behaviour changes, and you can try a different graphics card.

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

That is a no-name PSU, one of the PSUs that are only sold in a specific price-sensitive region like Spain/Portugal, because they cannot compete on the worldwide market with such a PSU. I mention such PSUs in the "What to avoid completely" section of my PSU Guide. I would not trust this PSU whatsoever, they tend to use very cheap technology inside which can cause you a lot of problems after a couple of years.



Finally the information that should've been very promintently in the title or at least in your first post.

You are actually right of it not having EZ Debug LEDs, because it's one of the cheapest MSI board models, based on the cheapest chipset. I always recommend to avoid such board models, because the manufacturer literally tried to save every penny there. It is missing even some basic features, and it's only good for the most entry-level CPUs because of it's very weak VRM and complete lack of VRM heatsinks, so it can overheat quickly.

It does however have a JBAT1 header for performing a Clear CMOS, it's just below the PCIe x16 slot.



It's not good to mix different RAM, because they have different specifications and electrical requirements, but there can only be a single set of parameters for all the RAM in your system. So when you mix two different modules, the single set of parameters automatically becomes a compromise, and it can cause a lot of trouble if the RAM is too different from each other. It's like fitting two different wheels on your bicycle. If they are too different, it won't ride well anymore.

Try with one module in the left slot only, and try both of them individually in the left slot. This is one of the most promising things to try, because i can see how different RAM can cause problems on a different BIOS version.

Your methods for troubleshooting on this board are quite limited, because there is limited indication of what is going on (no EZ Debug LEDs). Personally, i would replace that PSU with a better model, i am pretty certain it's not very good. You can at least test with a different PSU (known good and not too old, decent quality). You can do the RAM test. You can remove your graphics card to see if the behaviour changes, and you can try a different graphics card.

The PSU never game me any problem and it´s still giving power to the components, at same at the ram´s that I test the method you say before and doesn´t change anything, same problem with my motherboard. I know I have lower cuality products, and the reasonfon that is because I bought my pc prearmored at "Pc componentes" and it´s costs very low for the thing can do. I never had before any problems but when I try to update the bios after reestore my pc this happends. In other comment I said that I connected a speaker to the pc and it beeps 3 long times, that might be the problem, but I don´t know what it means. I´d like to update all my components because that you says it correct, they are the lowest possible, but it takes me time, and at the moment I want to use my pc as I was ussing it 2 weeks ago
PD. I try the CMOS reset and nothing happends

 

[citay]

The PSU never game me any problem and it´s still giving power to the components

If i had a penny for every time i heard this when i pointed out a bad PSU model, i'd be rich now. Let me quote from my PSU guide for simplicity:
The main thing with PSUs is, it is not a simple case of "on=works" and "off=broken". It's a complex piece of electronics which transforms the 230V or 115V mains power (depending on your country) into 12V, 5V and 3.3V for the PC to use. There can be a number of things wrong with the quality of the output voltages which are not immediately obvious.

Inside a PSU, there is a complex electrical circuit with lots of different components. In a low-quality PSU such as yours, they use the cheapest circuit design which requires the least components, then they might simply leave out some more components of that circuit to save more money, then they might use the lowest-end components (or underspec'd components) for each place in the circuit to save some more money. All to offer this at a record low price.

Why do they build it so badly? Because there is no way to save money on a PSU. Every circuit design that is decent, with components of decent quality, costs a certain amount of money, and it's impossible to save costs there. So they have to purposely design it badly to undercut the competition in price.

Anyway, i will not say, the PSU is responsible here. You might be right and the PSU is completely innocent. However, it is still one of the things to test quite early (with a borrowed different PSU), because it's much less of a hassle than trying a new motherboard for example.

and at the moment I want to use my pc as I was ussing it 2 weeks ago

I understand. But there is no magic thing you can do with an MSI board that will restore everything to how it was. Instead, you have to to good old conventional troubleshooting. If you can borrow different RAM, try that. Different GPU. Different PSU. Even different CPU. At some point, you might find that no matter what else you try, the board always behaves like this. Then it points to the board.

Maybe just the BIOS is corrupted, then you could use this kind of method with an external flash programmer to flash it with the latest version again. Maybe the PSU was involved in damaging the board, because we had it maybe a handful times here on the forum where a board failed to boot again after a BIOS update for no apparent reason, and the PSU was definitely a bad model. I could not really prove that the PSU was at fault, but it gives you something to think about. If you end up getting a new board in the end, i would always buy a board from the middle of the model range (not the cheapest and not the most expensive), and i would definitely get a better-quality PSU for the new board too.

Three beeps can often mean the RAM. But sometimes it can be misleading. Also remove all USB devices for troubleshooting. You want to strip down the system as much as possible. That's why i said, even take out the graphics card to see if you maybe get different beeps.

 

[Alan J T]

I do it and doesnt solve my problem but I recently connected the speaker that I mentioned before, and it beep long 3 times. I was searching in the base manual an doesn´t says aníthing about the meaning of the beeps (I remenber that I have an msi A320 A PRO)

Beeps	Error Message	Description
1 short	DRAM refresh failure	The programmable interrupt timer or programmable interrupt controller has probably failed
2 short	Memory parity error	A memory parity error has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
3 short	Base 64K memory failure	A memory failure has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
4 short	System timer failure	The system clock/timer IC has failed or there is a memory error in the first bank of memory
5 short	Processor error	The system CPU has failed
6 short	Gate A20 failure	The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller
7 short	Virtual mode processor exception error	The CPU has generated an exception error because of a fault in the CPU or motherboard circuitry
8 short	Display memory read/write error	The system video adapter is missing or defective
9 short	ROM checksum error	The contents of the system BIOS ROM does not match the expected checksum value. The BIOS ROM is probably defective and should be replaced
10 short	CMOS shutdown register read/write error	The shutdown for the CMOS has failed
11 short	Cache error	The L2 cache is faulty
1 long, 2 short	Failure in video system	An error was encountered in the video BIOS ROM, or a horizontal retrace failure has been encountered
1 long, 3 short	Memory test failure	A fault has been detected in memory above 64KB
1 long, 8 short	Display test failure	The video adapter is either missing or defective
2 short	POST Failure	One of the hardware testa have failed
1 long	POST has passed all tests

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

If i had a penny for every time i heard this when i pointed out a bad PSU model, i'd be rich now. Let me quote from my PSU guide for simplicity:
The main thing with PSUs is, it is not a simple case of "on=works" and "off=broken". It's a complex piece of electronics which transforms the 230V or 115V mains power (depending on your country) into 12V, 5V and 3.3V for the PC to use. There can be a number of things wrong with the quality of the output voltages which are not immediately obvious.

Inside a PSU, there is a complex electrical circuit with lots of different components. In a low-quality PSU such as yours, they use the cheapest circuit design which requires the least components, then they might simply leave out some more components of that circuit to save more money, then they might use the lowest-end components (or underspec'd components) for each place in the circuit to save some more money. All to offer this at a record low price.

Why do they build it so badly? Because there is no way to save money on a PSU. Every circuit design that is decent, with components of decent quality, costs a certain amount of money, and it's impossible to save costs there. So they have to purposely design it badly to undercut the competition in price.

Anyway, i will not say, the PSU is responsible here. You might be right and the PSU is completely innocent. However, it is still one of the things to test quite early (with a borrowed different PSU), because it's much less of a hassle than trying a new motherboard for example.



I understand. But there is no magic thing you can do with an MSI board that will restore everything to how it was. Instead, you have to to good old conventional troubleshooting. If you can borrow different RAM, try that. Different GPU. Different PSU. Even different CPU. At some point, you might find that no matter what else you try, the board always behaves like this. Then it points to the board.

Maybe just the BIOS is corrupted, then you could use this kind of method with an external flash programmer to flash it with the latest version again. Maybe the PSU was involved in damaging the board, because we had it maybe a handful times here on the forum where a board failed to boot again after a BIOS update for no apparent reason, and the PSU was definitely a bad model. I could not really prove that the PSU was at fault, but it gives you something to think about. If you end up getting a new board in the end, i would always buy a board from the middle of the model range (not the cheapest and not the most expensive), and i would definitely get a better-quality PSU for the new board too.

Three beeps can often mean the RAM. But sometimes it can be misleading. Also remove all USB devices for troubleshooting. You want to strip down the system as much as possible. That's why i said, even take out the graphics card to see if you maybe get different beeps.

Updates and good news? I test to quit the rams and prove it in the left stock one an time, with the hyperx stills beepin the speaker but when I test the other ram (a sk hynix) IT DOESN´T BEEPS but the wrong part it that i test with and without the graphic card and the pc stills doesn´t give me any image. Knowing that my hyperx ram might be a problem but doesn´t using it not resolve anything what can I do?

 

[citay]

Try to borrow a different graphics card for testing with the SK Hynix RAM.

By the way, the Hynix module is only DDR4-2133, this low speed creates a bottleneck for your CPU performance, because everything the CPU does has to go through the RAM first. Also, your second module will be limited to DDR4-2133 as well. So this combination is not good at all. You should get a RAM kit of 2x 8 GB DDR4-3200 for example, and replace both old modules with it.

The shopping list is growing and growing, there is not much good hardware in your system that i would keep... let's see if we can get a picture again at least.

 

[caballerovaleroetha156202d9]

Try to borrow a different graphics card for testing with the SK Hynix RAM.

By the way, the Hynix module is only DDR4-2133, this low speed creates a bottleneck for your CPU performance, because everything the CPU does has to go through the RAM first. Also, your second module will be limited to DDR4-2133 as well. So this combination is not good at all. You should get a RAM kit of 2x 8 GB DDR4-3200 for example, and replace both old modules with it.

The shopping list is growing and growing, there is not much good hardware in your system that i would keep... let's see if we can get a picture again at least.

In a few days a friend will lend me a graphic card and I will test, because I doesn´t have other.
What do you mean with "a picture again at least"? a general photo of the pc or what

 

[citay]

No, i meant, for the PC to show a picture on the monitor. But now that you mention it, you can take a picture of your PC too, sometimes we can see something that's wrong.

 

[Encryptme]

I thought Dragon Centre was replaced with MSI Centre?

 

[darkhawk]

I thought Dragon Centre was replaced with MSI Centre?

While not relevant to the topic above.....

Dragon Center wasn't really 'replaced', so to speak. On newer boards (roughly Z390 series and up on Intel, and I think X370 at the time maybe?) they stopped being supported in Dragon Center, and only supported MSI Center now.
Dragon Center is still needed for older laptops/desktops/motherboards that aren't supported in MSI Center.

Hopefully that makes sense?