For boards supporting the current 12th/13th/14th gen CPUs, your board PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 uses a more low-end VRM:
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MSI always exaggerate and call it 12+2 (or 12+1+1) "Duet Rail", but it's really 6+2 phases, with doubled components to spread the thermal load.
This board's VRM is made up of cheap discrete MOSFETs, that's the sign that (for the requirements of i7/i9 CPUs) it's still considered a low-end solution. The MOSFETs are the little black chips that are in groups of four. But any board that was made with an i7/i9 in mind will use either DrMOS or Smart
Powerstages (SPS), which have a higher efficiency than discrete MOSFETs, because compared to them, they bundle everything in a single component which results in far lower switching losses. The Smart Powerstages even have sensors that can optimize the switching further.
Now, that's difficult to understand for someone that hasn't heard about VRMs, but just know that it can overwhelm a cheaper VRM if you really use a high-end CPU to its maximum capability (and why wouldn't you, otherwise you'd get a cheap CPU model).
Here i explain more how the board makers try to save money on the VRM components whenever possible.
Here and
here i posted some explanations about similar things before, and
here you can read what happens when buy a
really low-end board: The money on an i7 is completely wasted there, because the board completely restricts the power draw, otherwise the VRM would get overwhelmed. So your board is not
really low-end, let's called it upper-low-end if there is such a thing. At least it has doubled MOSFETs / chokes, at least it has VRM heatsinks. But for an i7/i9, i would still prefer a board with DrMOS or SPS.
Of course, for an i7/i9 you also have to take the cooling into account, especially the 14th gen can go to crazy power draw numbers, see
here. So no matter the board, if you don't have high-end cooling, you can't run it unrestricted anyway.
As for the 13700 vs. 13700K, the 13700 doesn't allow overclocking, plus it has a much lower base clock (which is necessary, because that's the scenario for which the TDP is defined), and 200 MHz lower turbo clocks. But when you disregard the official power limits (like almost any board will offer), then it's just like a slightly slower 13700K and will have the power draw according to that.
Only when you strictly set the power limits to the official numbers (in other words, selecting "Boxed cooler" on the cooler selection prompt, which is really the power limits prompt), then you will have the power draw that Intel states for it, more or less. But then the performance also decreases considerably, because remember, the TDP is only 65W (with a whopping 219W MTP, Maximum Turbo Power as per Intel spec)! This means, it will draw the MTP for half a minute, then it gets brutally limited to 65W power draw, which means it would have to drastically lower the clocks to stay within that limit, perhaps right down to the 2.10 GHz base clock (for the P-cores). You can imagine what kind of performance you get at 2.1 GHz vs. the 5.2 GHz maximum turbo clocks. So nobody in their right mind restricts it to 65W after half a minute, unless it runs in an office PC or cheap OEM system where they use cheap cooling and have to keep the temperatures and noise under control somehow. Otherwise you want to allow at least 150-200W or so indefinitely to have a proper performance from this CPU.
So the best thing to do is to set the power limits yourself, according to what your cooling can actually handle. I have described the entire procedure
here (although in that thread, the user has a high-end AIO, so he can use high power limits). First you'd set power limits roughly according to what you think your cooling can get rid of, even with long periods of full load. I don't know how capable your Endorfy Navis F240 ARGB is, maybe it can get rid of 180W while still keeping the CPU temperature within the 80°C range. Then you'd set that as a power limit in the BIOS, and check the resulting temperatures with Cinebench, which creates fully multithreaded conventional load (the highest load that does not come from a stress testing tool like Prime95). If they're mid-80°C, perfect. Above 90°C, you have to reduce the limits, below 80°C you can raise them if you want, of course it also depends on the noise you want to tolerate, that has to do with the
fan curves. I recommend the highest point of the curve (full fan speeds) at 85° or 90°C. I would try to stay away from the 90°C range, that slowly enters thermal throttling territory, it is not good to rely on that, and you want to have some headroom for higher ambient temperatures.
Then, to reduce the CPU's power draw in all load states, you can work with CPU Lite Load. Again, i explain that in the thread, also follow the links in there. No need to change the power limits from what you determined though, because those limits only have to do with your cooling capabilities, they don't change once you determined what your cooling can handle. But when you make the CPU draw a bit less power, it will throttle a bit less under full load, and it can boost the clocks a bit higher.
As for checking the sensors, it's important to see all the sensors at once, so do it according to the thread i linked ("here" in bold), with HWinfo64 Sensors open and expanded, and Cinebench. But i can already see that running without power limits is too much for your cooler, 240W CPU Package Power leads to thermal throttling. So you're gonna have to set power limits, i recommend testing with 180W.
