MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI red CPU EZ debug light

Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
5
Hi - and best seasonal wishes to you all.
I built a fast PC in August 2019 which has been working well until a few weeks ago. I'd appreciate any suggestions to diagnose and sort the issue(s). I'm thinking CPU, Motherboard or PSU lie at the root of it, but I don't have a spare AMD CPU, motherboard or PSU to try which rather limits my options!
1. Following a failed BIOS update it powers up and fans run but the PC doesn't boot, no signal to monitor, the red CPU debug light shows on the motherboard and the HDD activity light shows solid white - no flickering. The PC will run quite happily in this non working state.
2. Intermittently, the Bluetooth icon has disappeared from the system tray and device manager. Just before the failure to boot issue device manager general tab reported that the Bluetooth device had failed due to a power issue - sorry I didn't take a note of the details or code at the time thinking that a driver update or BIOS update would solve this - hence issue 1.
Since Bluetooth resides on the motherboard the two issues may or may not be connected.
What I've done already -without success:
I've stripped the pc down and can see no obvious physical issues on MB or CPU.
I (re)updated the BIOS with the Flash BIOS button - the MB was bare, no cpu, ram etc. This seemed to complete successfully but did not solve the failure to boot issue.
I reinstalled all the components and still no boot.
I tried with and without the W10 on NVME - I substituted a Crucial CT512MX100 W10 System ssd from my laptop.
Regards
JB

Windows 10 on a Addlink S70 512GB NVMe M2 SSD, MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI, AMD Ryzen 7 2700X CPU, 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3200 DDR4, Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2080 GPU, Corsair RM650X PSU,
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
5
I've now tested the PSU outputs - voltages are I presume within tolerance. 12v is 11.9, 3.3 is 3.2 and 5v is 4.9 according to the supply tester.
 

Alan J T

GRUMPY OLD FART
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
2,587
I've stripped the pc down and can see no obvious physical issues on MB or CPU.
I (re)updated the BIOS with the Flash BIOS button - the MB was bare, no cpu, ram etc. This seemed to complete successfully but did not solve the failure to boot issue.
I reinstalled all the components and still no boot.
I tried with and without the W10 on NVME - I substituted a Crucial CT512MX100 W10 System ssd from my laptop.
Regards
JB
By no boot is that for Windows or are you not able to get to the BIOS screen
 

Alan J T

GRUMPY OLD FART
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
2,587
HI Alan J T - I'm not able to get to the BIOS.
Not so good then try Flash back with a older bios

If that dose not work you may have to chat with MSI support
Some directions for you
I only use USB 3.0 drives of a known brand not mystery drives.
It appears that cheap mystery drives may be problematic.
FOR FAILED BIOS FLASH
PC must be turned off for BIOS Flashback to be started do not turn on your PC the Bios Flashback will do it for you
If that Fails see directions below.
Following Directions are for windows based OS
Right Click on the Downloaded Bios Zip File, if you see the message this file is blocked by windows tick the box to unblock and click OK.
When in windows File Explorer make sure that you select the View tab and Tick the box Show Hidden Files and File Name Extensions.
Extract the BIOS file from the Downloaded ZIP file Open the folder it was extracted to.
Right click on the BIOS file, select copy and then paste it into a USB drive Formatted to FAT32,
When in Windows File Explorer make sure that you select the View Tab and Tick the box Show Hidden Files and File Name Extension.
Now rename the BIOS file to MSI.ROM
There should be no other files or folders on the USB drive, just the BIOS file you have renamed to MSI.ROM

OK turn off and PSU and remove the power cord. Carefully take the PC apart remove all the components from the case as well as the Motherboard Place on a cardboard box or insulated surface, and plug in the 24 pin and the CPU power plugs for the Motherboard. Do not plug in any other leads to the board.
Plug in and turn on the PSU
Wait about 2 minutes before next step just in case there is a power on and off cycle when you turn on the PSU
Plug the USB Drive in to the USB port just below the Bios Button,
Do not touch any Jumpers on the Motherboard
Push the FlashBack button and then release it,
About 5 seconds later a led just above the USB port will start to flash, after 15 seconds of so the speed of the flashing light will double this is the writing to the BIOS period.
Once done writing to the it will stop flashing and PSU will turn off
For 16MB BIOS it will take about 4 to 5 minutes, and flashing stops.
For 32MB BIOS it will take 6 to 7 minutes, and flashing stops.
People have said that it may turn back on if so just turn off and unplug the PSU.
And Bios should be flashed if just one of these steps does not happen it is a failed flash.
Just to check out if the MB even understands the drive itself I have also made some testing:
Wrong file format: (Ie. ExFAT, NTFS etc) the drive flashes, but no power to the motherboard.
Wrong file name: The USB drive led flashes few times, the flash LED flashes few times, but no power to the motherboard
Correct file format and name but other error: the USB LED flashes few times, The flash LED flashes few times, power turns on, USB flashes again few times, flash LED flashes two times and then turns on and stays on.
Successfull flash: same as above except flashing keeps on for several minutes, until the flash LED stays off
I always strip any partitions out of USB drives when I buy them, Delete the partition or Volume and then make a new simple volume and Format to FAT32 I do this with every USB drive I get as I detest the formatting and software on them done by the Manufacturers is more trouble than they are worth.

I Normally do this with Windows Disk Manager

However if you are having trouble Deleting the Partitions on you USB drive or you have a failed attempt pleas download and use Partition Magic to remove all partitions on the USB and then create a new a single partition formatted to FAT32
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
5
Thanks Alan for that comprehensive reply. I have reflashed the BIOS several times now with the mobo bare. My most recent efforts have looked to be successful just as described in the user guide and as shown on Youtube videos I've been following i.e. the red flashing led for a few minutes followed by a restart. However the red debug light still glows when I reseat the cpu (and without the cpu which I suppose is what you'd expect) and the no boot/no signal to monitor issue remains. A couple of differences to the procedure you detailed however. I haven't tried different usb sticks (I'm using a Kingston DataTraveler G4 8GB) and I've always started the flash with the usb drive already inserted. I'll try doing it your way and get back to you.
 

Alan J T

GRUMPY OLD FART
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
2,587
Hope you get it up and going but if flash doesn't work you may have to contact MSI and do a RMA. Could be that the board just failed and the Bluetooth was just the start of it.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
5
Hope you get it up and going but if flash doesn't work you may have to contact MSI and do a RMA. Could be that the board just failed and the Bluetooth was just the start of it.
Hi Alan - it worked. The PC is up and running again.
Your detailed instructions varied from my procedure in 3 ways in the end.
1 I used a different usb stick.
2 I used an older BIOS image than before to try to get back as far as I could to default/straight out of the box condition.
3 Once I had the bare mobo again I switched on the PSU and waited a couple of minutes as per your instructions before inserting the usb stick and pressing the Flashback button.
I'm not sure which of these was or were responsible for the turn in fortunes!
I'm not convinced the mobo is entirely reliable. For now the Bluetooth is back, the BIOS is updated and the pc appears to be running normally but I'll be more vigilant in the future in case issues occur - maybe I can catch them before they becomes a major problem.
Thanks for your assistance. You went out of your way to help and I'm very grateful. You've saved me an expensive repair and a great deal of time!
BTW our daughter is in Terrigal, Central Coast. I hear the weather's not going to be great over New Year but I suppose it'll be nicer than here in Scotland!
All the best
John B
 

misacek1975

New member
Joined
Nov 6, 2019
Messages
1
Hi Alan - it worked. The PC is up and running again.
Your detailed instructions varied from my procedure in 3 ways in the end.
1 I used a different usb stick.
2 I used an older BIOS image than before to try to get back as far as I could to default/straight out of the box condition.
3 Once I had the bare mobo again I switched on the PSU and waited a couple of minutes as per your instructions before inserting the usb stick and pressing the Flashback button.
I'm not sure which of these was or were responsible for the turn in fortunes!
I'm not convinced the mobo is entirely reliable. For now the Bluetooth is back, the BIOS is updated and the pc appears to be running normally but I'll be more vigilant in the future in case issues occur - maybe I can catch them before they becomes a major problem.
Thanks for your assistance. You went out of your way to help and I'm very grateful. You've saved me an expensive repair and a great deal of time!
BTW our daughter is in Terrigal, Central Coast. I hear the weather's not going to be great over New Year but I suppose it'll be nicer than here in Scotland!
All the best
John B
Hi johnblackwood,
I saw your description, and because I have had exactly the same trouble, I almost 100% sure that the fact you where updating to an older Bios (older than December 2020,to be shure the oldest with agesa support) did solve the trouble. I did exactly the same! Just a shame that I bought first a new CPU, and now owning one spare🙄💸😢
I am sure there's a problem with the newest BIOS versions which support the new 5000 Ryzen! I updated to the newest BIOS version although I am running an 5 3600 (now 7 3700), and when unplugging PSU from power, cause I wanted to install an AIO liquid cooler, the mess started.
 
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