New member
Mar 27, 2024
Hi guys !

I need help for select the best fit CPU, RAM and SSD for this card ?
I start my project with MSI AI1300P and MSI Mag core liquid 360r v2 and MSI MPG Velox 100R+2 fan 120mm
My first idea is the i7-14700k, i9-13900k or i9-14900k or ...
And the RAM, CORSAIR Vengeance CMK96GX5M2B6600C32 Mémoire RAM DDR5 96 Go (2 x 48 Go) 6600 MHz CL32 or ...
SSD MSI Gaming SPATIUM M570 PRO PCIe 5.0 NVMe M.2 2TB FROZR or Crucial T700 2TB Gen5 NVMe M.2 SSD with heatsink or ...
My goal is a balanced setup for anything. Over clocking included.

Sorry for my english.

Thanks for your help, it's very appreciated
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If you don't care about cost, then the i9-14900k CPU will be the best choice because it has more extreme performance than other CPUs. As for the rest, I highly recommend checking the compatibility list on the MSI website for purchasing reference, as these are all tested and certified by MSI. One more important thing, liquid cooling is a must for optimal CPU cooling
My first idea is the i7-14700k, i9-13900k or i9-14900k or ...

This board is good for all CPU models, but i think that the i7 is the most well-rounded CPU overall. The i9 is nice if you just want "the best", but the power draw under full load can even overwhelm nice AIOs. Furthermore, all the best 13900K and 14900K are reserved to become a -KS and be sold at a higher price. Therefore you are not likely to get any i9 that's good for overclocking at all. But even the 14700K, you will hardly be able to overclock. The problem is the very high power draw of these new CPU models even at default settings. So once you try to raise the frequencies over the stock ones, you will need even more voltage, which makes the power draw go through the roof. Meaning, you will immediately be temperature-limited in your overclocking.

When these CPUs are already running into thermal throttling even at stock frequencies with maxed out power limits on most coolers, then how are you ever going to overclock? Overclock means even higher temperatures. So this is out of the question with most modern high-end CPUs. Instead, if you want to tweak something, focus more on the RAM, for example optimizing the timings. That has no downsides in the power consumption, you just have to know what you're doing and you have to test for stability.

And the RAM, CORSAIR Vengeance CMK96GX5M2B6600C32 Mémoire RAM DDR5 96 Go (2 x 48 Go) 6600 MHz CL32 or ...

That amount of RAM can be necessary for professional applications, like rendering, video processing, lots of VMs, things of that nature. But it will do absolutely nothing for daily use or gaming, most games don't even use more than 16 GB RAM. So 2x 16 GB would be more than plenty for years to come, and it usually runs better than 2x 32 GB or 2x 48 GB. So if you want the best RAM performance, get a kit of 2x 16 GB with a nice XMP. Also see my RAM thread, and see this video.

SSD MSI Gaming SPATIUM M570 PRO PCIe 5.0 NVMe M.2 2TB FROZR or Crucial T700 2TB Gen5 NVMe M.2 SSD with heatsink or ...

I would highly recommend an M.2 PCIe 4.0 x4 SSD instead. The available PCIe 5.0 SSDs run way too hot, their controllers still have a way too high power draw. Until they come out with newer controllers that use a better manufacturing process and further optimizations, the PCIe 4.0 SSDs are superior. The only advantage of the PCIe 5.0 SSDs is the higher linear thruput, which is almost irrelevant in most real-world workloads, it mostly makes for impressive benchmark numbers. So i would suggest something like a Crucial P5 Plus, WD Black SN850X, Seagate FireCuda 530 or Samung 990 PRO.

Then it's a matter of, what CPU cooler do you want to go for? Right now, the new best price/performance AIO is the Arctic Liquid Freezer III. Alternatively, a high-end tower cooler like the "be quiet! Dark Rock Elite" for example. Then the question of the GPU, as well as the PSU (depending on the power draw of the GPU).
I start my project with MSI AI1300P

Very good.

and MSI Mag core liquid 360r v2

I would advise against it. You have probably heard that the initial CoreLiquid -R series was prone to a fatal sludge buildup. When this problem happens, the coolant does no longer move through the system and the CPU can quickly overheat. It will also have low performance from thermal throttling, or even overtemperature shutdown.

What's more, as was posted here, even with the CoreLiquid -R V2 series (the newer version that is not supposed to be affected), some of those can develop the problem after a while. So if you ask me, the whole CoreLiquid -R series should be avoided. Right now, the new best price/performance AIO is the Arctic Liquid Freezer III.

MSI MPG Velox 100R+2 fan 120mm

Glass front is not ideal for high-end components with high power draw. It depends on your GPU if this is acceptable or not. It doesn't even have dust filters in the front.
If we look at something like the be quiet! Pure Base 500DX:


Open front panel design that doesn't obstruct the airflow, with full dust filters. This creates a straight-forward airflow that makes for efficient cooling.

Also good would be something like the Fractal Design Meshify 2 RGB / Meshify 2 Lite RGB.
That's a highly enthusiast-grade XMP profile, this can easily cause problems. This kind of XMP is rarely plug&play, also see the explanations here. If you don't have a top-notch IMC (integrated memory controller of the individual CPU), then most likely this XMP will need manual tweaking. If you want to be more on the safe side, get something like DDR5-6400. Of course, you can get the DDR5-7600 kit, and when -7600 won't work, try -7200 or lower. But then that would be a waste of money. I'd suggest something like G.Skill F5-6400J3239F24GX2-RS5K, this should be a solid 48 GB kit with nice timings.
Well, with RAM, you have to know what you're doing. That goes for both situations: 1) Getting a RAM kit with an enthusiast-grade XMP, which you know is very demanding, so it might not even work at its XMP speed, and 2) getting a RAM kit with a more conservative XMP, which you then want to push to a higher speed than the XMP, or at least better timings at the same speed. Personally i would more go for the second approach, select a nice kit with nice speed and nice timings, and then optimize the timings some more (because especially the secondary and tertiary XMP timings can be quite conservative). But that is a science in itself.

The good thing with tuning the timings is, there is a good bit of tuning to be done there, and you can't run into a lot of problems if you test for stability. Whereas for overclocking a CPU, on any higher CPU model nowadays, you immediately run into a brick wall. Because they already need so much voltage at stock speeds to reach those frequencies, that any voltage you add makes the power draw and temperatures immediately go through the roof. The CPUs basically come in a factory-overclocked state nowadays (at least i7 and i9). So with the RAM, if you want to tune a lot, this is where you can play. Of course, don't underestimate the time you need to understand RAM tuning, and the time testing for stability.
If you have an M.2 heatsink on the board and it's decently constructed like it is on that board, then there's no need to pay extra for an SSD version with a heatsink.
Those SSDs both benefit from a heatsink, but the board's heatsink will do.
Hello, i have a last question please.

Windows 10 or 11, home or pro ?

My last version is 7. The 7 to 10 is free but not 7 to 10 to 11.
I need french version( Canada ). OEM is good ?

Too many keys and options. It is very difficult to choose.

A big thanks again for your help.
Windows 10 or 11, home or pro ?

10 or 11 doesn't make a difference for the key itself, they use exactly the same keys, if you buy a new key. So for example if you buy a new Win10 Home key, it will also work to activate Win11 Home. They have only changed the keys between Win7/8 and Win10/11. For a long time you could use a Win7 key to activate Win11. Now you can only use a Win10/11 key, they blocked the Win7/8 keys.

I would recommend Win10/11 Home, you don't really need Pro. Heck, you can even install things like the Group Policy Editor in Home.

OEM license is ok. I just would try to stay away from very cheap eBay licenses, those tend to be semi-legit, those are often volume license keys which are never meant to be sold, and they can be blacklisted by Microsoft later. If you see a license for very cheap (like 10, 15 EUR/USD), it's probably that. A legitimate OEM license tends to cost a bit more, i've seen some for 50 EUR/USD for example, those are guaranteed not to be deactivated. They were probably also not meant to be sold seperately from a PC, but unlike the Volume Licensing keys, Microsoft can't really tell which were sold seperately or not. A full-price license is not really necessary, especially in light of MS practically giving away Win11 licenses for free with the Win7/8 upgrade scheme for the longest time.
My nick here is citay, Seargeant is just some "rank" they have, but yes, the contact frame is a good idea. Ideal would be the Thermal Grizzly one, it is machined to the highest standards. der8auer from Thermal Grizzly actually came up with the idea in the first place, the others are just copycats. But of course it also costs more. Here at around 4:00 and especially at 15:00 minutes they talk about the installation of different frames,

The updated Thermal Grizzly frame (13th/14th gen) doesn't need such a precise torque anymore.
No idea, you're better off asking on a Canadian forum. But it's not "activated Windows 11", you only activate it at home once you entered the key. What you want is a legitimate Windows OEM license (with a key), doesn't matter if 10 or 11, as i explained (since Win10 keys can be used for Win11). It should be around half that price at the most. If it's very cheap, be cautious.