MSI B760 gaming plus wifi bios update problem

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Jan 23, 2025
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Hi, I’ve recently updated the bios with the last version available on msi website for the MSI B760 Gaming Plus WIFI. After the update, my pc won’t boot into windows anymore. Sometimes after restarting not even bios could appear, I have a black screen. Idk what I should do, I’m thinking on returning the motherboard and getting a new one. Is there anything I should do in order to make it work? I only get a black screen.
 
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Please list all your components in detail, including PSU. On the board, above the 24-pin ATX header, there are four EZ Debug LEDs, check the status of them when you don't get a picture. Do not return anything until you have done some proper troubleshooting to narrow down the cause. Heck, maybe we can even fix it.
 
Please list all your components in detail, including PSU. On the board, above the 24-pin ATX header, there are four EZ Debug LEDs, check the status of them when you don't get a picture. Do not return anything until you have done some proper troubleshooting to narrow down the cause. Heck, maybe we can even fix it.
Psu: seasonic focus-gx-850 850W 80plus gold
Cpu: Intel I7 14700k 3.4 ghz
Gpu: asus tuf-rtx4070 ti super
Ram: 2x corsair vengeance 16gb ddr5 5600 mhz
Motherboard: MSI B760 gaming plus wifi
Ssd 1 (where windows is installed): samsung 1tb 980 pro
Ssd 2: samsung 2tb 990 pro (it has a red light on it that is flashing)

The 4 leds are turning on one by one and they turn off after, they don’t stay on.
 
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Ok. Well, the board model is not a good match for an i7/i9 CPU, because it has the same more "basic" VRM section as here. For an i7 or i9 there is a "silent agreement" that you need a Z-chipset board, and those all use powerstages in the VRM by now (except the useless Z790-S). The B-chipset boards are meant for entry-level to mid-range CPUs, so this is a bit of a mismatch to begin with. With a 14th gen i7 or i9, you shouldn't mess around with a cheap B-series board model anymore.

Anyway, you say the EZ Debug LEDs cycle through and then turn off? This is normally a good sign, it means the board hasn't immediately detected a problem, maybe it has even booted into Windows and you just don't see it. So i would try all the outputs, on the GPU as well as on the board. If there's nothing, take out the GPU and just try the board's outputs.

But yes, It's very important to use the latest BIOS, you have a CPU which was affected by buggy microcode in older BIOS versions. On an old BIOS with buggy microcode, the CPU slowly gets grilled from spikes of excessive voltage, which eventually causes CPU degradation to the point of instability. So updating the BIOS was long overdue, that's preventing another major issue in the future. And then you can go by my Guide: How to set good power limits in the BIOS and reduce the CPU power draw for further improvements. But only if we solve the current issue first.
 
From MSI, PRO Z790-A (Max) WIFI. From Gigabyte probably the GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite AX, has a better VRM than the Gaming X AX at same/lower price.
 
From MSI, PRO Z790-A (Max) WIFI. From Gigabyte probably the GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite AX, has a better VRM than the Gaming X AX at same/lower price.
Allright, I will have them in mind. But how do I do with this one? Maybe I’ll get some tips, I also was on MSI Assistant for like 2hrs total to try and solve it but no results. I will try with the other video outputs now.
 
Like i said, try all the outputs, on the GPU as well as on the board. If there's nothing, take out the GPU and just try the board's outputs. As the next step, you could test without the second M.2 SSD.
 
Like i said, try all the outputs, on the GPU as well as on the board. If there's nothing, take out the GPU and just try the board's outputs. As the next step, you could test without the second M.2 SSD.
Tried that but unfortunately nothing shows. Anyway, you iluminated my head with the idea of changing the motherboard. I ordered a gygabyte z790 aorus elite ax and waiting for it to come and I’ll return the msi one. Thanks a lot and I hope I’ll get it sorted out with this new motherboard because it’s been a pain. Regarding the z series, do I have to set the power limits and reduce the cpu power draw?
 
Yes, with Gigabyte it's quite similar, only the settings are named a bit differently. You can always considerably optimize the way the CPU is running, no matter the motherboard brand, because from factory they will run too hot. In this example video you can see where the relevant settings are on Gigabyte.

The important thing however is, you need to find the best values for your individual CPU (primarily for the AC loadline setting, the DC loadline is not as important). Each CPU is different, according to its silicon quality. Lowering the AC Loadline essentially lowers the voltage for the CPU, and at a certain point, the CPU will become unstable. You have to find this point through stability testing, and then raise the value again to where it's stable. Test thoroughly for stability there, then add a small bit more on top (like 55->60 as a random example) for stability headroom.
 
Yes, with Gigabyte it's quite similar, only the settings are named a bit differently. You can always considerably optimize the way the CPU is running, no matter the motherboard brand, because from factory they will run too hot. In this example video you can see where the relevant settings are on Gigabyte.

The important thing however is, you need to find the best values for your individual CPU (primarily for the AC loadline setting, the DC loadline is not as important). Each CPU is different, according to its silicon quality. Lowering the AC Loadline essentially lowers the voltage for the CPU, and at a certain point, the CPU will become unstable. You have to find this point through stability testing, and then raise the value again to where it's stable. Test thoroughly for stability there, then add a small bit more on top (like 55->60 as a random example) for stability headroom.
Thank you, I will search for a tutorial and see a clear example on how to do it.

Edit: looks like the video you provided is enough I think, I’ll check.
 
The ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER OC, which i suppose you have, has a 12VHPWR header for power (and should include an adapter cable from 2x 8-Pin PCIe power).

Your Seasonic Focus GX-850, if it's the ATX 3.0/3.1 version, has a native 12V-2x6 / 12VHPWR cable, which can plug directly into the GPU's power header without an adapter.

If you were to use the adapter, then on the adapter, you have to plug in two seperate (!) 8-pin PCIe power cables coming from the PSU, not a single one with two plugs on it. However, it's much better to use the native cable instead, if your PSU came with one.

If something about this is not done the right way, the graphics card will refuse to work.
 
Removed the gpu completely from the motherboard, I’m in bios now and the vga led is still orange

Edit: It dissapeared when I entered windows installation after the bios update and the cpu undervoltage the guy did in that video. And used the settings for my cpu:

Powerlimit 1: 252w (did a -1w)
Powerlimit 2: 252w (did a -1w)
Icmax: 306A (dis a -1 on this one too)

I hope I’ve got these settings right. Thanks a lot for the video dude

And I have 2 pci-e into 1 inside the gpu, i saw people saying that red light is a sign that it doesnt have enough power when pc is turned off which is understandable and it’s fine

One question: i saw people connect 2x 8 pins at for the cpu, I only have 1, is it something bad? @citay
 
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and the cpu undervoltage the guy did in that video. And used the settings for my cpu:

Powerlimit 1: 252w (did a -1w)
Powerlimit 2: 252w (did a -1w)
Icmax: 306A (dis a -1 on this one too)

Well, that's just the power and current limits, which you somewhat set to Intel's semi-arbitrary limits. You have to set them to what your cooling is actually capable of. I didn't see you mentioning the cooler, but for it to deal with ~250W (the maximum i would allow for any CPU), it would have to be a nice 360mm AIO. Most air coolers cannot handle that amount of heat. So with a lot of coolers, you can't set 250W, you have to set something lower. Which value, this you can find out by doing step 1) of my Guide: How to set good power limits in the BIOS and reduce the CPU power draw. You would run Cinebench (R23 "CPU Multi" benchmark) which i link there, then you check in HWinfo what the temperatures go up to. You adjust the power limits until you can manage to keep it from entering the 90°C range.

So instead of relying on some Intel figures, which are not fitting well for most people's cooling, you can find ideal power limits for yourself. The 307A IccMax are usually ok, unless they kick in sooner than the power limits (meaning, you would see in HWinfo that the CPU Package Power = actual CPU power draw doesn't go near 250W), then it could be raised a bit, the limit according to Intel is 400A. But usually 307A should be enough. 306A vs. 307A doesn't make a difference.

But of course, then you do step 2), the actual undervolting. Setting power limits is not undervolting, it's what it says on the tin, it sets limits for the power draw that the CPU wants to observe, so if the power draw wants to get higher, it will throttle the CPU (lower the frequencies, so it can use lower voltages and have less power draw). But this is not undervolting, undervolting is when you keep the same frequencies at lower voltages. Power limit throttling, or any kind of throttling, will reduce the frequencies to have lower voltages. So in order to undervolt, you'd lower the AC Loadline setting on Gigabyte, like i mentioned before. I believe he showed that in the video too.

And I have 2 pci-e into 1 inside the gpu,

So your PSU does not include the native cable, where you don't need the 2x PCIe power -> 1x 16-pin 12VHPWR adapter?
Check if it includes that cable, and if it does, i'd use that instead.

One question: i saw people connect 2x 8 pins at for the cpu, I only have 1, is it something bad?

Every variant of the Seasonic Focus GX-850 has two 8-pin cables for CPU power (as 4+4 pin). So you can connect both. It only had advantages (apart from having to route a second cable), because using two cables halves the resistance and doubles the conductance.
 
Thanks for all the info, I will have a look. I’ve played a game: Deadside 2k with everything on epic and the cpu sita in max 75 degrees and the gpu the same. Also, I have an Arctic Freezer 36 black as a cpu cooler.
 
I know that cooler, have a couple of them here (and used one on a 12700K already), it's pretty nice and an absolute bargain, but that cooler is good for around 180W at the very most. Your CPU temperature is only at 75°C in a game because gaming taxes the CPU around half-load, only the GPU is at full load. Once you apply full CPU load (like Cinebench does), your CPU will enter thermal throttling around 100°C with your ~250W power limits and this cooler, guaranteed.
 
I know that cooler, have a couple of them here (and used one on a 12700K already), it's pretty nice and an absolute bargain, but that cooler is good for around 180W at the very most. Your CPU temperature is only at 75°C in a game because gaming taxes the CPU around half-load, only the GPU is at full load. Once you apply full CPU load (like Cinebench does), your CPU will enter thermal throttling around 100°C with your ~250W power limits and this cooler, guaranteed.
I will look into the tutorial you sent me tomorrow when I arrive home, thank you so much dude! Will be back with results.
 
Back. i wanted to reset defaults on bios, did that and now the system won’t boot anymore. Why does this happen? And I’m trying to reinstall the windows again because it seems that is not booting into it. And I get a bluescreen… all this because I did a load defaults on the bios… why is this so overwhelming, I don’t get it… what do I do wrong??? After the restart after the blue screen it says boot failure detected and I can’t clikc any of the options!!! I’m getting a bit frustrated that all this is happening after a simple load defaults on bios so I can start doing some changes with a clean one… why is it like this???
 

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Well, now you would have to post on Gigabyte forums, i cannot help too much with the Gigabyte BIOS, i don't deal with those that often. From the message (it's not really a bluescreen in the regular sense of the word, it's just a fault displayed on a blue background), it would appear that an important system file got corrupted. It's this error, https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/w...ck-0xc0000221--status-image-checksum-mismatch

So somewhere on the way to the SSD, the data got corrupted. I don't know what loading optimized BIOS defaults would load settings that are unstable, normally the defaults should be the most stable. But maybe someone over on the Gigabyte forums has experienced the same thing before and can help.
 
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