MSI Pro H610M-B- DDR4 Power On Problem

Joined
Aug 28, 2024
Messages
3
Hello Everyone,
I need a little help from experts.

I am facing a weird issue with my PC. Whenever I turn on my PC, it doesn't start. I turn off the switch and turn it on again and again and it doesn't start. All of the sudden, it get starts.

Sometimes, it starts on the first try. During running time, there is no issue. Everything working fine. If I restart the PC, it gets restarted perfectly. But if I, by mistake, click on Shut Down, it's a nightmare. It won't start again.

It was working fine and this issue starts automatically.

Specs are:

MSI Pro H610M-B- DDR4
Intel 12th Gen i3 Processor
Lexar 24 GB RAM
Kingston 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe M2
1 TB Simple SATA HDD
Zotac GeForce 3060 Twin Edge 12GB GDDR6
Corsair CX650F PSU

If someone knows, help me out how to get rid of this issue.
 
That looks strange, the name, the amount.
How many sticks in which slots are installed and which model exactly are they?



This is also suspected.

How this issue started? Is this a new build? If no, does it worked fine before?
What BIOS version board is using?
I bought it 2 years back. It was brand new. The issue started all of the sudden.

Lexar is brand of Memory Stick. 8+16. 2 Sticks are installed.
 
Lexar is brand of Memory Stick. 8+16. 2 Sticks are installed.

This is a bad idea. Mixing different RAM and different-sized RAM always has more downsides than benefits. For example, only 8 GB of the 16 GB module works in dual-channel mode, the rest works in single-channel mode. The memory system can only use dual-channel mode up to the capacity of the smaller module (so up to 8 GB). Obviously, single-channel mode ruins the performance, because it's only half the bandwidth.

Furthermore: There can only be one set of RAM parameters for the whole memory system, but then it would have to be some compromise that tries to make two RAM modules with completely different ICs (memory chips) and different capacity happy at the same time, even though they need different parameters from the board. And i'm not even primarily talking about the speed and timings here, i'm talking about the electrical parameters. So the IMC (integrated memory controller of the CPU) has to do "the splits". It sees two sets different modules being used, with quite different requirements for certain parameters on the memory bus, but it can only set a "middle ground". But there is no good middle ground between such different modules.

Mixing different RAM is like this:

PSM_V38_D791_An_ordinary_bicycle_with_lines_of_force.jpg


When you really want it to be completely even, like this:

800px-Storck_Scenario_Light_01.jpg


So it's always best to use a kit of two identical modules only, the second best thing is to use four identical modules. See here for more explanations:
RAM explained: Why two modules are better than four / single- vs. dual-rank / stability testing

Now, this is just an FYI, but since Svet already (rightfully) zeroed in on this, i thought i give some more explanation so he can lay back in his chair.
But i don't think this is responsible for your problem. On the other hand, it's easy to test, just take out the 8GB module and leave only the 16 GB module in DIMMA1.


One of the main suspects with any power-on problems would always have to be the PSU. So try with a different PSU if you can arrange it, which has to be known good, not too old (preferably within its warranty period) and of decent quality. You can connect it on-the-fly using its own cables (meaning, don't install it in the case, just put it next to it with the fan opening unobstructed).
 
Thank for explaining about RAMs. I wasn't aware of that.
This is a bad idea. Mixing different RAM and different-sized RAM always has more downsides than benefits. For example, only 8 GB of the 16 GB module works in dual-channel mode, the rest works in single-channel mode. The memory system can only use dual-channel mode up to the capacity of the smaller module (so up to 8 GB). Obviously, single-channel mode ruins the performance, because it's only half the bandwidth.

Furthermore: There can only be one set of RAM parameters for the whole memory system, but then it would have to be some compromise that tries to make two RAM modules with completely different ICs (memory chips) and different capacity happy at the same time, even though they need different parameters from the board. And i'm not even primarily talking about the speed and timings here, i'm talking about the electrical parameters. So the IMC (integrated memory controller of the CPU) has to do "the splits". It sees two sets different modules being used, with quite different requirements for certain parameters on the memory bus, but it can only set a "middle ground". But there is no good middle ground between such different modules.

Mixing different RAM is like this:

PSM_V38_D791_An_ordinary_bicycle_with_lines_of_force.jpg


When you really want it to be completely even, like this:

800px-Storck_Scenario_Light_01.jpg


So it's always best to use a kit of two identical modules only, the second best thing is to use four identical modules. See here for more explanations:
RAM explained: Why two modules are better than four / single- vs. dual-rank / stability testing

Now, this is just an FYI, but since Svet already (rightfully) zeroed in on this, i thought i give some more explanation so he can lay back in his chair.
But i don't think this is responsible for your problem. On the other hand, it's easy to test, just take out the 8GB module and leave only the 16 GB module in DIMMA1.


One of the main suspects with any power-on problems would always have to be the PSU. So try with a different PSU if you can arrange it, which has to be known good, not too old (preferably within its warranty period) and of decent quality. You can connect it on-the-fly using its own cables (meaning, don't install it in the case, just put it next to it with the fan opening unobstructed).
 
Hello Everyone,
I need a little help from experts.

I am facing a weird issue with my PC. Whenever I turn on my PC, it doesn't start. I turn off the switch and turn it on again and again and it doesn't start. All of the sudden, it get starts.

Sometimes, it starts on the first try. During running time, there is no issue. Everything working fine. If I restart the PC, it gets restarted perfectly. But if I, by mistake, click on Shut Down, it's a nightmare. It won't start again.

It was working fine and this issue starts automatically.

Specs are:

MSI Pro H610M-B- DDR4
Intel 12th Gen i3 Processor
Lexar 24 GB RAM
Kingston 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe M2
1 TB Simple SATA HDD
Zotac GeForce 3060 Twin Edge 12GB GDDR6
Corsair CX650F PSU

If someone knows, help me out how to get rid of this issue.
I had a similar problem today
The motherboard was purchased in January 2025.

After turning off the computer by holding the On/Off button for about 5 seconds, the computer stopped responding and did not turn on!
Connected another power supply - same thing.
Shorting the Power jumper on the motherboard also did not give a result.
Tried to reset the motherboard settings by removing the cmos battery - did not help.
I dropped everything and took a break.

Strangely, but after the break the computer started working!
My Specs are:
BIOS: 7D48vAJ 2024-10-15 9.53MB (latest)
MSI PRO H610M-E DDR4
CPU: Intel 14th Gen i3-14100F
RAM: 2xG.Skill Aegis 16GB DDR4
Crucial P3 SSD 500GB M.2 NVMe PCI Express 3.0 (my OS)
2TB SATA HDD
500GB SATA HDD
GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 3050 6GB GDDR6 Ventus 2X OC
PSU: Be Quiet System Power 10 750W Full Wired 80 Plus Bronze
 
After turning off the computer by holding the On/Off button for about 5 seconds, the computer stopped responding and did not turn on!

This is a forced hard shutdown (not waiting for the OS to shut down, but cutting the power from the board's side), you would only do this if the PC became unresponsive for example. What was the reason for using this method?

When you try to turn it on, what EZ Debug LEDs does the board show, if any? There should be at least the CPU LED, or some other LED.
 
This is a forced hard shutdown (not waiting for the OS to shut down, but cutting the power from the board's side), you would only do this if the PC became unresponsive for example. What was the reason for using this method?

When you try to turn it on, what EZ Debug LEDs does the board show, if any? There should be at least the CPU LED, or some other LED.
>> What was the reason for using this method?
This method I had to use many time in many PCs! Never was problem!

>> When you try to turn it on, what EZ Debug LEDs does the board show, if any? There should be at least the CPU LED, or some other LED
Nothing.. Like came the motherboard off!
 
This method I had to use many time in many PCs! Never was problem!

You mean, this is how you turn off your PC? You know this is the wrong method, right? You're supposed to shut down the operating system (usually Windows) by using the shutdown option. When you force a hard shutdown, you basically pull the rug from under Windows, it cannot do outstanding write operations to disk and cleanly exit everything. With this method you're gonna have tons of errors in the event logs, which makes it quite hard to troubleshoot something when you really have a problem one day.

Nothing.. Like came the motherboard off!

When you get nothing, start with the PSU. You said you did that, but was it a suitable one? It has to be a known good PSU that's not too old and that's of decent quality, connect it on-the-fly using its own cables. If you use another PSU that's too old or too low-quality, the result is inconclusive.

Once the PSU has been ruled out, you can take out the GPU, take out the RAM, and disconnect all drives, as well as disconnect internal USB cables. If the board still does not do anything, now those parts are also ruled out. Finally, you would take off the CPU cooler and take out the CPU, and then try again to turn it on, you should get the CPU LED now definitely. If not, the board is defective.

But also take that chance to check for bent pins inside the CPU socket, also see here and the following posts. While they are technically all bent, the pins all have to look completely uniform under light, the tips of the pins have to line up in a perfect pattern, with none visually sticking out from the rest. So if you have some pins that don't look like the others, then you really have some bent pins. Ideally take some photos of the socket, upload to an image hoster and link them here, even if you don't think there are bent pins (sometimes they are not that easy to spot for the untrained eye).
 
You mean, this is how you turn off your PC? You know this is the wrong method, right? You're supposed to shut down the operating system (usually Windows) by using the shutdown option. When you force a hard shutdown, you basically pull the rug from under Windows, it cannot do outstanding write operations to disk and cleanly exit everything. With this method you're gonna have tons of errors in the event logs, which makes it quite hard to troubleshoot something when you really have a problem one day.
Yes, I know that this is the wrong method!
I used it when Windows or Linux froze for various reasons on desktops and laptops. And never after that did I have to climb into the motherboard with remove CMOS Battery! You see, even completely disconnecting from the power supply did not help!
 
It has to be a known good PSU that's not too old and that's of decent quality, connect it on-the-fly using its own cables. If you use another PSU that's too old or too low-quality, the result is inconclusive.
My Specs are:
BIOS: 7D48vAJ 2024-10-15 9.53MB (latest)
MSI PRO H610M-E DDR4
CPU: Intel 14th Gen i3-14100F
RAM: 2xG.Skill Aegis 16GB DDR4
Crucial P3 SSD 500GB M.2 NVMe PCI Express 3.0 (my OS)
2TB SATA HDD
500GB SATA HDD
GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 3050 6GB GDDR6 Ventus 2X OC
PSU: Be Quiet System Power 10 750W Full Wired 80 Plus Bronze
 
Yes, i've seen your specs. To rule out that PSU, you used another one. I wanted to know if the other one was suitable, meaning which model the other one was (to see if it's too old/bad to be used for getting a second opinion).
 
Ok, then the PSU should be ruled out, and you can proceed with more troubleshooting:

Once the PSU has been ruled out, you can take out the GPU, take out the RAM, and disconnect all drives, as well as disconnect internal USB cables. If the board still does not do anything, now those parts are also ruled out. Finally, you would take off the CPU cooler and take out the CPU, and then try again to turn it on, you should get the CPU LED now definitely. If not, the board is defective.

But also take that chance to check for bent pins inside the CPU socket, also see here and the following posts. While they are technically all bent, the pins all have to look completely uniform under light, the tips of the pins have to line up in a perfect pattern, with none visually sticking out from the rest. So if you have some pins that don't look like the others, then you really have some bent pins. Ideally take some photos of the socket, upload to an image hoster and link them here, even if you don't think there are bent pins (sometimes they are not that easy to spot for the untrained eye).
 
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