New Build Red and Yellow Lights

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May 25, 2026
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This our second motherboard (the first had a bent pin). The PC specs are below - we built everything and it wont post. Ive tried the different ram sticks, different slots, one at a time in each spot but nothing. The CPU was pulled from our previous working build and no issues. Im at a loss here.. we suspected the first MB died, replaced it twice now and no boot. Any insight or troubleshootong is greatly appreciated. I know there are dozens of articles about the Red and Yellow light issue (CPU + RAM) but after MSI accepted the return and noted the bent pin, we were hopeful a new MB would have solved the issue.

MSI B650 Pro
Ryzen 5600
CoolerMaster hyper 212 (tried stock cooler, no luck)
MSI GeForce RTX 4060 8GB
1TB WD NVMe SSD (Win 10 already installed)
Corsair 850W Gold+
 

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I'm surprised they've accepted the original board back with a bent pin, because they have an automated optical socket inspection at the factory before packaging, and any bent pins are seen as customer-induced damage which is therefore not covered by their warranty. They have a point with that too, because almost all bent pins happen accidentally before or during CPU installation. And a single bent pin, unless it's bent severely, is also possible to fix yourself. But ok, new board. Was it really new, or a refurbished one?

About the CPU+DRAM LEDs on AM5, yes, lots of threads about it, and it's most common with 600-series boards. The cause, to mine and everyone's frustration, is still unknown.

There is a limited amount of troubleshooting you can do. First, try flashing the BIOS to the very latest version using the Flash BIOS Button, followed by a Clear CMOS. You want to have 5-8 minutes of flashing. I'm sure you've come across the procedure for it.

Then, the SSD and GPU you can leave out, they are not a factor (the OS should be updated to Win11 once you get it working). Then, you probably saw some mention of the cooler, yes, that's another thing to try. Reseat the CPU (take it out and put it back again), to ensure even contact, then mount the cooler, but play with the mounting pressure, tighten it all the way first, then loosen the screws a bit again (half a turn, a turn, two turns maybe). This is in case there's a problem with the contact between CPU and board. You can also try with the board on a wooden table instead of mounted in the case.

The PSU, which exact model is it? They made many 850W Gold-rated models over the years.
 
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