That PSU is electronics garbage, I'm afraid. It's a group-regulated no-name PSU of the lowest quality, you can immediately see that from the specs, it's really a 300W PSU, and that's pushing it. Not that your system actually draws close to 300W at any point, but the thing is, such PSUs tend to have very bad output quality of the voltages (high ripple, bad regulation), which could even throw off the BIOS flashing process sometimes. And, as you have experienced, such no-name PSUs cut corners everywhere they can, so they are often missing vital protection circuits. With any slight issue like a power surge, they either die immediately, or they even take other components to the grave with it.
So the first thing that has to be done here, that PSU has to go. I probably wouldn't even sell it, I'd feel too bad to sell this bad of a PSU to someone. This is a PSU you give to your enemy, not sell to a random person. So I would probably just take the loss and give it to electronics recycling. You need a brand-name PSU that's decent and at least 80PLUS Bronze rated, see my
PSU guide. This is the bare minimum for a PSU nowadays.
But that's only to prevent things like this from happening again, it won't suddenly make everything work again. Because right now, if I had to guess, with a PSU like this, something went wrong during flashing, and the BIOS ended up being corrupt. The board cannot boot with a corrupt BIOS anymore. So now, the BIOS would have to be flashed properly again. Since there are no onboard means of doing that with this board model, the BIOS would have to be flashed using an external flash programmer like a CH341A,
this kind of method (bit more info
here). So you either need to buy such a programmer (they're cheap) and research how to flash the BIOS with it, or you ask a local PC/repair store if they are able to do this for you.
However, with your board, it's also not really worth to flash the BIOS, since it's an old low-end model. I checked on eBay, these boards regularly sell for around 20 EUR/USD, often even bundled with a CPU and RAM! See for yourself:
So you can either outright buy this board again, or you take this opportunity to upgrade the entire system, which would be about time. Get at least a 9th gen (if it's Intel) to have official compatibility for Windows 11, and do a fresh install of Win11 to it. Maybe a new SSD too, because 128 GB is not much nowadays even just for Windows and some programs.
Not to mention the RAM, such a mismatch is always a bad idea, you will only have 4 GB running as dual-channel, the remaining 2 GB of the 4 GB module will run in single-channel, which puts the already slow DDR3-1066 speed to the equivalent of DDR3-533. And that's the DDR speed, so the actual frequency would be 266 MHz equivalent performance.
Overall, there is so much worth replacing in this system that you could take this opportunity to build an entirely new one.