PRO B840M-B , RED AND YELLOW LED (DRAM AND CPU) ON IN SOLID COLOR

[jacyelo15a902e5]

Hi everyone, I'm a beginner and I try to ensemble my first PC, I was extremely careful with the instalation of the processor, the cooler, one stick of ram and the SSD NV3, I also confirmed the compatibility of each component, I turned on my computer and the CPU and DRAM leds instantly turned on in a solid color and also the fan starts to spin but there's no image in my monitor, I wait like 1 hour but there were no changes, please help me.

SOLUTIONS THAT I ALREADY TRY:
Install the newest version of BIOS downloaded from the MSI page and push the Flash BIOS button (Three times).

Removed the battery in the BAT1 slot, wait 20 minutes and put it again.

Removed and install again all the components, I was extremely careful with this step, I also checked that the pins in the processor slot are okay, also try to put the RAM in A2 and B2, starts the PC and wait 20 minutes. (Two times)

Try using the jumper mentioned in the page 38 of the manual (JOC-FS1) and the (JBAT1)

In each try I wait at least 20 minutes and still no change in the lights
My power supply has only four pins instead of the eight I see in the motherboard I don't know if I gotta acquire another another one because of this, I plugged in at the right side because there were the only side it fits.
I don't know what I gotta do now, shall I refund all the components? I'm already tired of trying and see the exact same problem each time.

If you need pics from any piece or connection please tell me.

COMPONENTS
AMD RYZEN 5 8600G
16 Gb Kingston 5600MT/s
NV3 PCle 4.0 NVMe M.2 500Gb

 

[hibrown]

Please check your memory model if it's listed on AVL.
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-B840M-B/support#mem

 

[jacyelo15a902e5]

My memory's model is KVR56U46BS8-16, I searched it and I don't find it, It means I gotta buy another memory that it's listed?

 

[plutomate]

non-listed ram doesn't indicate the ram is not supported, it could just be MSI does not have the specific ram for validation.
but your ram only run 5600MT/s, would be hard to believe it does not work with your board.
I'll say get a "cheap" DDR5 (sorry it's a bad timing), or borrow from friend and try to see if it's indeed compatibility problem or bad kit so you can RMA the memory.

 

[jacyelo15a902e5]

Thanks for your answer plutomate, I already made the refund of my RAM and I could acquire another one almost for the same price (I checked that is listed for being sure thats isn't the issue), maybe in a few days my PC finally can turn on but if not I'll probably comment for more help.

 

[citay]

Install the newest version of BIOS downloaded from the MSI page and push the Flash BIOS button (Three times).

And did it flash for 5-8 minutes and reboot? Otherwise (less than a minute, or more than 10 minutes of flashing), the flash wasn't successful.

Removed the battery in the BAT1 slot, wait 20 minutes and put it again.

Sadly, that has very little chance of helping in such instances, and also doesn't do much more than shorting the JBAT1 jumpers which you did later. The latter is an easy enough thing to try, but without ever setting any custom BIOS settings (which a Clear CMOS would reset to defaults), this always has a low chance of fixing something like this. It can mostly help when there's a problem to boot up properly one day, not when the board never started properly to begin with.

My power supply has only four pins instead of the eight I see in the motherboard I don't know if I gotta acquire another another one because of this, I plugged in at the right side because there were the only side it fits.

What is your PSU model?

My memory's model is KVR56U46BS8-16, I searched it and I don't find it, It means I gotta buy another memory that it's listed?

This is very standard RAM without an XMP/EXPO profile, at a pedestrian so-called JEDEC spec. It should run pretty much anywhere.

Of course, using one module of 16 GB means that the memory system would be in single-channel, which has only half the bandwidth of dual-channel when using two modules. So performance-wise, it would be much better to use 2x 8 GB, to have double the bandwidth. Especially when you want to do more than a bit of office work or non-demanding tasks with this system, which is where it could be ok like this.

Not too fond of the Kingston NV3 either, DRAM-less QLC is never ideal, but again, probably not critical for what looks like more of a basic system for daily tasks. And certainly doesn't cause the current problem. I don't think the RAM should be involved either. In fact, try without any RAM, I bet you still get the same CPU+DRAM LEDs.

The main priority now should be to ensure that the BIOS was flashed to the latest version successfully.

 

[jacyelo15a902e5]

And did it flash for 5-8 minutes and reboot? Otherwise (less than a minute, or more than 10 minutes of flashing), the flash wasn't successful.

The light blink between 6 and 8 minutes, then the PC turned off and almost instantly turned on again without any changes in the lights CPU and DRAM, and the cooler spins, I try with the latest version and the second latest version downloaded from the page of my motherboard, I change the file name correctly and I confirmed the files in my USB are in FAT32

Sadly, that has very little chance of helping in such instances, and also doesn't do much more than shorting the JBAT1 jumpers which you did later. The latter is an easy enough thing to try, but without ever setting any custom BIOS settings (which a Clear CMOS would reset to defaults), this always has a low chance of fixing something like this. It can mostly help when there's a problem to boot up properly one day, not when the board never started properly to begin with.

Good to know, thanks. I'll not touching that battery again unless I need it

What is your PSU model?

It comes included with my case, also it come pre-installed in it, I think the model is Blazar Evo FT 500E, should I buy another one with eight pins instead of four?

This is very standard RAM without an XMP/EXPO profile, at a pedestrian so-called JEDEC spec. It should run pretty much anywhere.

Of course, using one module of 16 GB means that the memory system would be in single-channel, which has only half the bandwidth of dual-channel when using two modules. So performance-wise, it would be much better to use 2x 8 GB, to have double the bandwidth. Especially when you want to do more than a bit of office work or non-demanding tasks with this system, which is where it could be ok like this.

I refunded the RAM already but I don't know if buy the KF556C40BB-16, I know about the dual chanel but now it's cheaper buy only one RAM 16 than 2 RAMs 8, maybe in the future can acquire the RAM that's missing.

Not too fond of the Kingston NV3 either, DRAM-less QLC is never ideal, but again, probably not critical for what looks like more of a basic system for daily tasks. And certainly doesn't cause the current problem. I don't think the RAM should be involved either. In fact, try without any RAM, I bet you still get the same CPU+DRAM LEDs.

I'll try it and I answer again, thanks Citay

The main priority now should be to ensure that the BIOS was flashed to the latest version successfully.

I guess it does, as I said, plug in the USB in the closest port USB to the Flash BIOS Button whit the PC turned off, push the Flash BIOS Button and wait 6-8 minutes till the light stops blinking, then the PC turned off and instantly turned on again without changes

 

[citay]

The light blink between 6 and 8 minutes, then the PC turned off and almost instantly turned on again without any changes in the lights CPU and DRAM,

Yes, sounds like a successful flash. So the problem is probably not happening because of the BIOS version.

It comes included with my case, also it come pre-installed in it, I think the model is Blazar Evo FT 500E, should I buy another one with eight pins instead of four?

No-name PSUs that come included with a case are pretty much guaranteed to be the worst quality possible. Which is easily understandable once you realize that the parts inside a PSU all cost a certain amount, and a good PSU ends up costing what you probably paid for the case + bundled PSU. So when they have to offer such a cheap PSU to be bundled with a case, they have to cut corners, use a very simple technology, leave out and/or downsize parts and use low-quality parts for the rest. Such a PSU is not a good foundation for any system, and usually tends to fail after a few years, which can happen suddenly, or first it can start to cause problems because of horribly noisy and loose output voltages.

So my only recommendation here is to buy a quality PSU from a reputable PSU maker, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU.

While I cannot promise that this has anything to do with the CPU+DRAM LEDs (which are known to happen on MSI AM5 sometimes for no apparent reason), what I can say with confidence that this bundled PSU is not so much a reliable power source for the system as it is somewhat of a ticking time bomb. Bundled PSUs, unless they are proper brand-name ones, should always be avoided.

I refunded the RAM already but I don't know if buy the KF556C40BB-16, I know about the dual chanel but now it's cheaper buy only one RAM 16 than 2 RAMs 8, maybe in the future can acquire the RAM that's missing.

RAM prices are likely to stay high for another 1-2 years (unless the AI bubble bursts). For that time, the RAM production capabilities are mostly booked out, and geared towards memory that they need in AI data centers, so supply for the end-user market will be limited. Same is slowly happening with SSDs, the production of the memory for that is more and more geared towards high-capacity drives needed in such AI data centers, and normal SSDs will keep getting more expensive as the supply diminishes.

Also, you have to look at your personal RAM requirements, this system doesn't sound like you would need 32 GB of RAM for it. So you should get what you need now. It's not guaranteed that you can get the same exact RAM module again later. Even if it costs a bit more now, I would check for two 8 GB modules. Of course, if it costs an unreasonable amount more, it doesn't make sense. But if it's "just" 20, 30 bucks more, I'd get the 2x 8 GB, especially if it also has tighter timings.

But yeah, RAM pricing makes no sense anymore. For my brother, he has a system using DDR4, and instead of upgrading to a DDR5 system, we are now looking at upgrading to the last Intel 700-series platform that still allowed to use DDR4, so he can re-use his existing 2x 8 GB DDR4. Otherwise it would make no financial sense to upgrade, from a cost-benefit ratio.

 

[yourmajestyff154e02d6]

Hello everyone!

I have exactly the same problem: the RAM + CPU LEDs are on, on the same motherboard (B840M-B).

I’ve already been running tests for 4 days without finding any solution:

• - I installed the latest BIOS successfully.
• - I cleared the BIOS using both the button and the jumper on the motherboard.
• - I tried starting the PC with only one RAM stick in slot A2.
• - I tried starting the PC with only one RAM stick in slot B2.
• - I removed the power supply and the CMOS battery for an hour before starting the PC again.
• - I tested with two different power supplies.

Still the same issue: RAM + CPU LEDs stay on.

The first time it happened was after I restarted the computer. I completely disassembled and reassembled everything, and it worked again.
4 days ago, I restarted the PC and the problem came back, but this time it’s impossible to start the PC. :/

My RAM is listed on the compatible RAM list, so I don’t know where to look anymore.

I think I’m going to buy a new motherboard, but without really knowing where the problem is coming from.
I don’t think the issue comes from the CPU or the RAM, since they are almost new (less than 4 months of use).

 

[citay]

In a lot of cases of CPU+DRAM LEDs, once other things are ruled out (as they often are), it will be between the board, the CPU, and the connection between those two, i.e. the contact of the CPU and the socket pins. So what is still a relatively easy thing to do now (for both you and the OP) is to take off the cooler, take out the CPU, and check for bent pins in the socket, also see here and the following posts. While they are technically all bent, the tips of the pins have to line up in a perfect pattern, with none visually sticking out from the rest. So if you have some pins that don't look like the others, then you really have some bent pins. Ideally take some photos of the socket, upload to an imagehoster and link them here, even if you don't think there are bent pins (sometimes they are not that easy to spot for the untrained eye).

Once you have taken socket photos, you can then carefully install the CPU again, put the cooler on again (no need to apply new thermal paste, just re-use it for now), and see if the CPU re-seat could also make a difference. Of course, should there be bent pins in the socket, then the case is clear, it won't work properly until they are fixed.

Do not buy a new motherboard or RMA anything without being reasonably sure about the cause. At the very least, the socket has to be checked. And as mentioned, in some rare cases, even the CPU can have a problem, then it could trigger those LEDs as well (since the memory controller is also inside the CPU).

 

[yourmajestyff154e02d6]

Hi Citay,

I followed your advice and removed the cooler and the CPU to inspect the socket. I checked carefully for bent pins.
I took several photos of the socket from different angles. From what I can see, the pins seem to be aligned and I don't notice any obvious pin sticking out or out of pattern, but I may be missing something.
For context, the system was actually working before. The issue appeared after a simple restart, and since then the PC won't boot anymore.

Here are the photos of the socket:

I’m using a Ryzen 5 8600G and 2X Kingston Fury RAM (KF560C30BBEK2-32).
If anyone notices something I might have missed, please let me know.

 

[citay]

You have a few bent pins, I can already spot them on the first photo. Furthermore, there seems to be a hair in the soup, err, the socket.
I will highlight it for you:

Looks like a couple that are bent slightly sideways. Relatively easy to fix, because you "just" have to nudge them sideways in the other direction until their golden tips line up perfectly again with the surrounding ones. I've seen much worse cases, where the pins are bent backwards over themselves and such, so this is actually not that bad.

Here, I added lines of the golden tips, they should all be in a perfect row. You see that around four of them don't line up that well, potentially a fifth one.

Then the hair can be best seen on this photo:

About the sudden onset of the symptom, with bent pins, the symptoms can come with a delay, once the CPU has "settled in" a bit, then the contact to one pin, which was on the edge before, can be lost enough that it's causing an issue. So I would say, this should be seen as a case where the pins have to be fixed first. In the post about bent pins I linked before, check the reply further down there, I mention some help about fixing bent pins. This is really a rather mild case. But of course, don't take it lightly either.

 

[jacyelo15a902e5]

Citay, I remove my processor and took some pics of my socket, Anybody notices something strange or any blent pin? Look

 

[citay]

Yours looks pretty good to me.

 

[jacyelo15a902e5]

Hi everyone! , Quick update about this.
The PC finally turned on the green light and my monitor turned on
For anybody in the future:
I change my PSU and most important, change my RAM for a model that is listed on the compatibility list (The first answer to this thread), so if you have the same problem I recommend you to check to see if your components are the correct for your motherboard.
Thanks everyone for the help !!!!

 

[citay]

Nice. Hopefully that PSU was the old one though? Thermaltake SMART 80PLUS White is a famously bad model, also see here.

I mean, I told you that any PSU included with a case is bad, but you still should go by my PSU guide, checking for example the PSU Tier Lists if a model you are considering is at least Tier C or better. Alas... Tier F, the worst one, for crucial protections not doing their job (no good OverCurrent Protection, OverPower Protection, and Short Circuit Protection). So when stuff hits the fan, your attached hardware can easily die along with the PSU, and not just the PSU itself.

Also the efficiency and build quality is too low, nowadays I'd get an 80PLUS Gold model, or 80PLUS Bronze that's at least Tier C a the minimum.

For most things that you buy, be it motherboard, SSD, PSU, even the case, don't get the cheapest model of anything, they tend to cut too many corners on those. Not even a well-known PSU brand name like Thermaltake will save you, because on the cheapest models they will try to save too much money to hit that price point. For such a PSU, they can use outdated technology and cheap components to reach 80PLUS White efficiency, because it's easy to reach. Once you go to 80PLUS Gold, it's much harder to reach, now they have to use much nicer technology and components. So automatically, most Gold-rated models will be Tier C or better, because it not only improves the efficiency, but also all the other parameters that make a good PSU.

Having said all this, this PSU is probably still better than the one that was bundled with the case (because they are almost guaranteed Tier F and often don't even have an 80PLUS certification whatsoever), but not by much. You went from a very bad no-name PSU to a cheap Tier F brand-name PSU, I'm afraid. I can only recommend to return it and get something better instead. If you want to keep using it because it's too much hassle, then I would use it exactly how long the warranty lasts and not a day more. Luckily you don't have any expensive hardware in your system, otherwise it would be way too risky even for a short time.

 

[mugii.zi12c502b2]

У вас несколько погнутых контактов, я уже вижу их на первом фото. Кроме того, кажется, в супе, точнее, в розетке, застрял волос.
Я выделю это для вас:

View attachment 210108

Похоже, пара штифтов слегка погнута вбок. Исправить это относительно легко, потому что нужно "просто" слегка сдвинуть их в другую сторону, пока их золотистые кончики снова идеально не выровняются с окружающими. Я видел и гораздо худшие случаи, когда штифты были погнуты назад и тому подобное, так что это на самом деле не так уж и плохо.

Здесь я добавил ряды золотистых кончиков, они должны располагаться в идеальном ряду. Видите, что примерно четыре из них не совпадают, возможно, еще пятый.

View attachment 210109

Тогда волосы лучше всего видны на этой фотографии:

View attachment 210110

Что касается внезапного появления симптомов, связанных с погнутыми контактами, то они могут проявляться с задержкой, когда процессор немного "приработается", и контакт с одним из контактов, который раньше находился на краю, может быть настолько потерян, что это вызовет проблему. Поэтому я бы сказал, что в этом случае сначала нужно починить контакты. В сообщении о погнутых контактах, на которое я ссылался ранее (см. ответ ниже), я упоминаю некоторые советы по их починке. Это действительно довольно лёгкий случай. Но, конечно, не стоит относиться к нему легкомысленно.

пHi, could you tell me if everything is okay with mine?

 

[mugii.zi12c502b2]

У вас несколько погнутых контактов, я уже вижу их на первом фото. Кроме того, кажется, в супе, точнее, в розетке, застрял волосы.
Я выделю это для вас:

View attachment 210108

Похоже, пара штифтов слегка погнута вбок. Исправить это относительно легко, потому что нужно «просто» слегка идеально сдвинуть их в другую сторону, пока их золотистые кончики снова не выровняются с окружающими. Я видел и гораздо худшие случаи, когда штифты были погнуты назад и были похожи, так что это на самом деле не так уж и плохо.

Здесь я добавил ряды золотых кончиков, они должны располагаться в идеальном ряду. Видите, что примерно четыре из них не оказались, возможно, еще пятыми.

View attachment 210109

Тогда волосы лучше всего произвести на этой фотографии:

View attachment 210110

Что касается проявлений внезапного проявления, то границы с погнутыми контактами, то есть они могут подключиться с задержкой, когда процессор немного «приработается», и контакт с одним из контактов, который до сих пор находится на краю, может быть настолько потерян, что это вызывает проблему. Поэтому я бы сказал, что в этом случае сначала нужно починить контакты. В двух о погнутых контактах, на которые я ссылался ранее (см. ответ ниже), я упоминаю некоторые советы по их починке. Это действительно довольно легкий случай. Но, конечно, не стоит относиться к нему легкомысленно.

Привет, не могли бы вы сказать, всё ли у меня в порядке?

 

[citay]

Your socket pins look good to me. I suppose it's because of your thread here, I can probably reply there once you changed it to English there.