Red and yellow LEDs on the MSI B650 Gaming WiFi (MS-7E30) motherboard

juan04134402c1

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Hi, I built a new PC:

- Ryzen 5 8500g
- 2 x 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5 5200 MHz
- RTX 3050 16GB
- 1TB Samsung SSD
- Sentey 650W power supply

After being off for a couple of hours, it powers on but doesn't display video or do anything; the red and amber LEDs just stay on.

I turn it off, wait 10 seconds, and turn it on again, and it boots normally and everything works fine.

If I turn the PC off and turn it on again after 15-20 minutes, it boots fine, but after an hour it repeats the problem of not turning on and the LEDs staying on continuously.

Here's what I've already tried:
- Updating the BIOS to the latest version (E7E30AMS.1F2)
- Trying with only one RAM stick in each slot
- Removing the graphics card
- Setting the RAM speed to 5200 MHz (not auto)
- Resetting the CMOS
- Checking the socket and processor (everything is new and working).

I feel like I've tried everything, but the problem persists.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Are you referring to the power supply brand? I can try another one and let you know. The strange thing is that when it's been off for more than an hour, it doesn't start when I turn it on; the LEDs just stay lit. I turn it off, wait 10 seconds, turn it back on, and it works perfectly. If it were the power supply, that shouldn't happen. I read somewhere that there's a way to bypass the CPU and memory speed check. Is that true? Can you tell me how to do it?
 
I don't know about the memory/CPU check but I'm sure someone will. It doesn't sound as if that'll give you a permanent fix though.
If you turn the system on from cold, i.e. after a long while, the psu gets it's highest surge load. When you turn off and straight back on again, there's residual voltage in the capacitors and resistors have increased (very slightly) so the power supply has slightly less of a surge to deal with and may be sensed differently by the motherboard, which is the important thing here. As I said, worth a try.
 
Okay, I understand. I'll try with another power supply, and I'll also test it with the same power supply and with the video card removed. I didn't do that last part, but I'll let you know the results. Thanks for your input.
 
Oh. I thought you said at the outset that you'd tried removing the card. Removing it might help prove that the power supply is at fault. It's unlikely that the graphics card will be at fault. Good luck!
 
No, sorry. I misspoke... what I did was disable the processor's video output. I read somewhere that this could cause problems, but I'm feeling a bit dizzy, to be honest.
 
Doing a quick search on your power supply and all I come up with is stuff that shows it's pretty old. How old is it?
 
Hi, thanks for your replies. First of all, I'd like to let you know that I've already solved the problem.

- All the PC components are new; I bought them new.

- I tried an external video card, but the problem persisted.

- A friend lent me a power supply, and I installed a Corsair RM1000X Shift 1000W, but the problem continued.

Then I read a recommendation on this same forum to slightly loosen the CPU heatsink screws, and doing this fixed the problem. Afterward, I reinstalled the original power supply, tested it, and there were no more issues. Finally, I added the video card, and everything works perfectly.

I was monitoring the CPU temperature because I thought that loosening the screws might increase it, but to my surprise, it only decreased slightly.

Thanks for your time; I hope my experience helps.

Regards
 
If I were you I would seriously save up for a different power supply. Do you live in the states? A good 750 watt psu will serve you for a good while , the one you are using doesn't have good reviews. May I ask where you bought it from.
 
Hi, I didn't live in Argentina. It wasn't cheap, I bought it out of ignorance. But yes, I'm going to look for a better one. At first glance, it didn't seem bad to me. These are the specifications, and it's certified:

- Extreme Power Plus Series
- Model EPP600_GT
- Part Number EPP600_GT
- Warranty: 3 Years

DC OUTPUTS RANGE
- AC Input (A): 5A
- AC Input Frequency (Hz): 50-60Hz
- Power Factor Correction: >0.99
- Efficiency at Typical Load: <82%

CONNECTORS
- Motherboard 20+4 pins: 1
- CPU +12V 4+4 pins: 1
- SATA 5 pins: 6
- Molex 4 pins: 2
- PCI-E 6+2 pins: 2

PHYSICAL SPECIFICATIONS
- Fan Cooler Size (mm): 120mm Sleeve Bearing
- Net Weight (g) 2.1 kg
-Sandy Black Finish
-ATX Form Factor
-Gross Weight (g): 2.25 kg

PROTECTIONS
-Over Current Protection (OCP): Yes
-Over Power Protection (OPP): Yes
-Over Temperature Protection (OTP): Yes
-Over Voltage Protection (OVP): Yes
-Short Circuit Protection (SCP): Yes
-Under Voltage Protection (UVP): Yes

TECHNOLOGIES & FEATURES
-AMD Crossfire: Ready
-NVIDIA SLI: Ready
-DC to DC Converter: Yes
-105°C Japanese Capacitor: Yes
-Power Factor Correction: Active
-Power Cord Certified: Yes

CERTIFICATIONS & STANDARDS
-80 Plus Bronze
-Type: ATX 2.31
-RoHS: Yes
-EuP: Yes
-C-tick: Yes Yes
-CB: Yes
-CCC: Yes
-CUL: Yes
-FCC: Yes
-TUV: Yes
-UL: Yes

But I'll take your advice and look into changing it. Thanks
 
I'm here to learn. Given the scenario that OP wrote in the first post, why would loosening the CPU cooler screws be the solution?
(scenario: computer has been off for at least an hour. Turn it on. Will not boot, red and yellow EZ Debug leds lit. Immediately turn off the computer. Wait ten seconds. Turn the computer on. Computer boots and works fine. Turn the computer off some time later. If the computer is turned back on within twenty minutes, it boots and works fine. But if the computer is turned back on after an hour, it will not boot and red and yellow EZ Debug leds are lit.)
 
I kinda see this is solved. However I have a few unanswered questions. Please tell me you didn't buy that GPU because it has 16GB vram - it doesn't. Second how did you updated the BIOS? flash back perhaps? if the CPU was crushed slightly surely that wouldn't hold the flashback. Yes I get it & feel that most PC Youtubers heavily edit the installing cooler part this really needs to stop, I fear the experience issues during mounting hence the edits the part that annoys, is they are seasoned veterans any noob, myself included have had that first cooler install, darn this .... is sketch feeling. The purerock 2 fx was my fist, to this day I dread the day repasting that CPU. If you did buy that GPU for 16GB you got had. If you do not game much sell it use the "G" APU and save up for a better option. And yes get rid of that PSU asap. Kudos on your diagnostic skills.
 
Hi, thanks for your comments. I actually bought the GPU without knowing much about it, and it wasn't for any particular reason. Among the options I was offered, I considered it the most convenient (without knowing much), but I did buy it at a low price. And regarding the heatsink, I now understand the importance of its correct installation. It's clear I underestimated it. Cheers.
 
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