"Silent<>Gaming" Switch

Joined
Feb 20, 2026
Messages
22
I purchased this system 11/25 and it has been running just fine. I'm not a gamer but my reason for the system was more along the AI inference of LLM, Image and Video experimentation (just trying to keep up with computer trends) with Stable Diffusion type things mainly with ComfyUI and other "portable" installs, using separate NVMe's for Windows 11, "portable" programs like ComfyUI and others. Enter the recent explosion of Video into the mix and temperatures began playing its part. Images not so much just taxing video rendering.

When I originally installed the RTX5090, I distinctly remembered the switch named in the title above. I even switched it back and forth a couple of times but left it on "Silent." Months later when video models started to bloom, I remembered the switch and thought it might be time to go to "Gaming" for the extra temperature effect with fan speed. However, when I did, I noticed the little slider was missing from the switch box. I contacted Support who told me it wasn't warranty which I understand. I probably knocked it off on install and didn't notice. My fault!

Back in my past I was a Radio Shack customer, took apart and cleaned or replaced and soldered many switches on many electronics. But I hesitate to guess with this expensive card that is working fine except for that issue. The case soldered to the board is not damaged, per se, except for that missing slide (that slid out somehow!). I'm guessing it would have two contacts on the slider with 3 on the base switch, the middle contact being the common point. o o o
Silent + +
Gaming + +
(My theory)

I am trying to avoid de-soldering the whole switch (taking apart anything!). And sending it out for repair is probably not worth the effort. I don't know.
So if anyone has had experience with this switch, I would appreciate insight into what happened when you switched it over to Gaming. Can MSI CENTER Fan tweaking achieve the same or BIOS tweaking maybe? Could I just insert a jumper wire to contact 2 and 3 (above)? Just brainstorming . . . if tweaking software does something useful I'm fine sticking with that rather than frying the card.
I'd appreciate some firsthand wisdom rather than guesses . . . I do that quite well! Lol!

Insights will be greatly appreciated.

System Specs:
Infinite RS AI 2NVZ9-1289US Stock System
PRO Z890-P WIFI Motherboard 64GB RAM
GeForce RTX 5090 32GB VRAM GAMING TRIO OC
1300W PSU
 
Can you show a photo of the missing switch? As well as maybe some photos of the system (a few of the case with the side panel on, then inside the system with the side panel off), if you are having temperature issues, to see what the airflow concept is and such.

If you find that you have to compress/downscale the photos too much, use an image hoster like https://imgbb.com/ instead of the forum uploads.
 
Back in my past I was a Radio Shack customer, took apart and cleaned or replaced and soldered many switches on many electronics. But I hesitate to guess with this expensive card that is working fine except for that issue. The case soldered to the board is not damaged, per se, except for that missing slide (that slid out somehow!). I'm guessing it would have two contacts on the slider with 3 on the base switch, the middle contact being the common point. o o o
Silent + +
Gaming + +
(My theory)

I am trying to avoid de-soldering the whole switch (taking apart anything!). And sending it out for repair is probably not worth the effort. I don't know.
So if anyone has had experience with this switch, I would appreciate insight into what happened when you switched it over to Gaming. Can MSI CENTER Fan tweaking achieve the same or BIOS tweaking maybe? Could I just insert a jumper wire to contact 2 and 3 (above)? Just brainstorming . . . if tweaking software does something useful I'm fine sticking with that rather than frying the card.
I'd appreciate some firsthand wisdom rather than guesses . . . I do that quite well! Lol!

Insights will be greatly appreciated.

If it's really broken that can't fixed easy or safety.

Then can suggest you a different approach,
ignore the other vBIOS chip that can't be accessed,
and use and overwrite the currently used vBIOS chip either with Silent or Gaming vBIOS depends which one you want to use.
 
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