Stuck on msi logo after bios update.

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hurrara7715c002e3

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I’ve been having a bunch of issues with my PC recently and things got worse after a BIOS update. I’ll try to explain everything clearly.
Before updating BIOS, my PC wasn’t shutting down properly and I was getting Event ID 41 (Kernel-Power) in Windows Event Viewer. Also, on boot, my monitor would often say “cable not connected”, and I had to turn the monitor off and back on to get a display.
Because of these issues, I decided to update the BIOS to the latest version for my motherboard (MSI PRO B660M-E).
After updating the BIOS, the system now gets stuck on the MSI logo screen and doesn’t proceed further.
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
CMOS reset → This actually allowed the system to boot into Windows once.
After that, I tried restarting and entering BIOS → but it got stuck on a black screen.
Did another CMOS reset and kept spamming DEL to enter BIOS → still stuck on a black screen.
Additional info:
During boot, the RAM debug LED (orange) stays on briefly, and the CPU debug light flashes.
These debug light behaviors were happening even before the BIOS update.
Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i3-12100 (12th gen)
Motherboard: MSI PRO B660M-E
RAM: G.Skill 32GB DDR4 3200MHz kit
GPU: Radeon RX 5600 XT
Current situation:
Sometimes boots into Windows after CMOS reset
Cannot reliably enter BIOS (black screen)
Often stuck on MSI logo
Monitor signal issues still happen occasionally
At this point I’m not sure if this is:
a BIOS issue,
RAM instability,
motherboard problem,
or something else entirely.
Any help or ideas would be really appreciated
 
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as Svet mentioned, try first to use onboard VGA to boot (reomove discreet VGA) first.
if still can't boot to window system properly, try to use just 1 memory modulde.
 
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pandaz said:
as Svet mentioned, try first to use onboard VGA to boot (reomove discreet VGA) first.
if still can't boot to window system properly, try to use just 1 memory modulde.
Click to expand...
Svet said:
Take out the GPU [Radeon RX 5600 XT],
and use onboard iGPU from CPU instead.
Then see how it's goes.

Also what PSU you use?
>>Posting Guide<<
_
Click to expand...
So today i took it to a pc shop, he removed the gpu and installed a nvidia gpu and pc boots, he tested my gpu in other pc and it also works, he installed bios (7D46v2P) and same issue he tried another a bit older bios but same issue, also i forgot to mention i updated to (7D46v2P) from a 2022 verison bios. at the end he just said replace gpu. currently the pc works with onboard graphics. what should i do? I have some random chinese psu 500 watt,



edit i forgot to mention that my monitor is not working with pc anymore, no display at all, when i used my tv it worked maybe its just bad cable
 
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We're getting a few of such similar issues lately, regarding the Radeon 5000-series cards, see here and here for example. Not always the same symptoms, but it points to something being up when using those card models on a new BIOS sometimes. As mentioned in one thread I linked, you can disable Secure Boot in the BIOS for a test, see if that makes it boot again properly with the Radeon. You'd disable it with the iGPU, press F10 to save and reboot, enter BIOS again and turn off the PC. Then insert the Radeon for a test.

hurrara7715c002e3 said:
I have some random chinese psu 500 watt,
Click to expand...

This doesn't bode well. Those kinds of Chinese "firecrackers" are usually a ticking time bomb. For your PC, the minimum is a model that's on the PSU Tier List as Tier C or higher, and 80PLUS Bronze or higher, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU. But actually, if you want to use the graphics card again, I would go to at least a Tier B model, with 80PLUS Gold. It's a good investment, it's the foundation of the entire system. The rated wattage doesn't have to be high, your 500W would be adequate (although most Gold-rated models start at 550W). But you can't completely cheap out on the quality.

hurrara7715c002e3 said:
edit i forgot to mention that my monitor is not working with pc anymore, no display at all, when i used my tv it worked maybe its just bad cable
Click to expand...

What monitor model? What inputs does it have? Yeah, try with another DP and/or HDMI cable.
 
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citay said:
We're getting a few of such similar issues lately, regarding the Radeon 5000-series cards, see here and here for example. Not always the same symptoms, but it points to something being up when using those card models on a new BIOS sometimes. As mentioned in one thread I linked, you can disable Secure Boot in the BIOS for a test, see if that makes it boot again properly with the Radeon. You'd disable it with the iGPU, press F10 to save and reboot, enter BIOS again and turn off the PC. Then insert the Radeon for a test.



This doesn't bode well. Those kinds of Chinese "firecrackers" are usually a ticking time bomb. For your PC, the minimum is a model that's on the PSU Tier List as Tier C or higher, and 80PLUS Bronze or higher, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU. But actually, if you want to use the graphics card again, I would go to at least a Tier B model, with 80PLUS Gold. It's a good investment, it's the foundation of the entire system. The rated wattage doesn't have to be high, your 500W would be adequate (although most Gold-rated models start at 550W). But you can't completely cheap out on the quality.



What monitor model? What inputs does it have? Yeah, try with another DP and/or HDMI cable.
Click to expand...
update i installed this version "7D46v29" bios and it works. gpu works fine and everything else. except same old issue of monitor saying cable not connected when booting up pc or shutting down, i tried it on my tv and same it was swtiching in between vga. DVI, hdmi etc, till it booted, but when i try with monitor i have to power on/off to get display. Its acer Ka210hq Monitor and using hdmi to dvi converter cable as the monitor only has dvi port
 
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Hmm right, that monitor is from 2015, with only DVI and VGA inputs. Maybe get a new HDMI to DVI cable.

Why did you go back so far on the BIOS versions? Try the second or third newest one. For example 7D46v2N should also still work.

And yeah, the PSU, with a no-name Chinese one, you are playing with fire (at least with your attached hardware's life)...
 
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citay said:
Hmm right, that monitor is from 2015, with only DVI and VGA inputs. Maybe get a new HDMI to DVI cable.

Why did you go back so far on the BIOS versions? Try the second or third newest one. For example 7D46v2N should also still work.

And yeah, the PSU, with a no-name Chinese one, you are playing with fire (at least with your attached hardware's life)...
Click to expand...
I tried the third or fourth newest one same issue didn't work. this one works and now i'm too afriad to do it all over again. will try new cable. I've been using same psu for 3-4 years no issues so far it wasn't permanent but i forgot about it, maybe its finally time to get new psu.
 
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In this case, you can try with 7D46v2H (last 2024 version before all the 13th/14th gen microcode fixes), or with 7D46v2E (last one before "Updated Secure Boot mechanism", which might have something to do with it). Or you could try with Secure Boot disabled on the latest version, as mentioned. I think it may be involved here. Or just leave it like this, of course.

As for the PSU, when you notice the first issues, it's already too late. The first issues you can usually notice with too cheap and/or bad PSUs are instability, data corruption, shutdowns under load. But during the time that the symptoms become that severe, the PSU will already have quite terrible output quality, the voltages will have a lot of so-called "ripple", they are "dirty" in a way. This puts all the attached components under more stress, and their onboard VRM is wearing out faster, because they have to compensate for this dirty voltage. Only when they can no longer compensate for it, do you actually get symptoms that you notice.

Also, during all this time, those cheap PSUs will have badly calibrated or completely missing protection circuits. So should there be anything wrong anywhere in the system, like a short for example, then this PSU can immediately kill all your hardware since it doesn't switch off fast enough. These cheap PSUs are often the equivalent of having no fuse box in your home, just the bare wires. If something happens, the fuses don't save you, your components will get fried.

Lastly, if the PSU is inefficient, more power is lost as heat inside the PSU, and your electricity bill is higher.

I would say, count your blessings that this went well for 3-4 years, if it's really a cheap no-name PSU. But going forward, I'd definitely recommend a brand-name high-quality PSU.
 
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so today i tried to reinstall windows via bootable drive and when i select the usb it get stuck on the msi logo, tried reinstalling windows iso etc. not works, i've installed windows via same usb many times before.
 
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