Tried to install new HDD, motherboard reset and now no wifi

[pathomeo15c702f0]

Motherboard: MSI z790 Tomahawk max wifi
CPU: Intel i7-13700k LGA1700 13th gen
GPU: Nvidia Geforce RTX 3080 Ventus 3x Plus 12GB GDDR6X OC edition
PSU: Corsair RM850x
RAM: Trident Z5 DDR5 16GB
SSD: Samsung 980 Pro, Samsung 990 Pro, Samsung 870 EVO
OS: Windows 11
I am trying to install a new HDD, WD Blue 4tb. I plugged in the power cable from my PSU to the HDD, and the Sata cable from the HDD to the motherboard, but when I turned on the computer the lights turned on for about 5 seconds then turned off. Then turned back on, then turned off. At that point I new something was wrong so I turned off the computer and unplugged the new HDD. Then when I turned on the computer it worked seemingly ok, until it started to crash when gaming. I then went into the BIOS and saw it had been reset. The BIOS has to be set up properly to run my Intel CPU for some reason I never understood, maybe because it's overclocked right out of the box? The BIOS P and E cores are +1 in OC settings at default. If I don't turn down the P and E cores to -5 in the BIOS then the computer will randomly crash. So if anyone could help me understand why I have to lower the cores like that I would appreciate it so I understand this stuff a bit better. The main thing is the WIFI disapprered from my device manager. I went to turn on the mobile hotspot and it's no where to be found. In the settings it just shows ethernet and bluetooth. I downloaded the MSI qualcomm driver but when I use the manager it says "no suitable drivers". I have the antennae plugged in as well. So the three questions are: 1. Why does the BIOS OC P and E core settings need to be lowered, 2. How do I get WIFI back, and 3. why did the new HDD cause a malfunction in my computer in the first place. I won't plug the new HDD back in until I have a better grasp as what the problem is.

Thank you for any help

 

[pandaz]

First, check if you already updated to the latest bios first.

1. Why does the BIOS OC P and E core settings need to be lowered,
basically no need to modify the CPU settings for general use, can you also check your CPU temperature?
Try also to use just one pc of memory first and don't enable any OC...

2. How do I get WIFI back, and
Try also to plug out the Power supple cable and clear CMOS for 5 min.
after that check if you can see Wifi device under Windows 11 device manager.

 

[pathomeo15c702f0]

First, check if you already updated to the latest bios first.

1. Why does the BIOS OC P and E core settings need to be lowered,
basically no need to modify the CPU settings for general use, can you also check your CPU temperature?
Try also to use just one pc of memory first and don't enable any OC...

2. How do I get WIFI back, and
Try also to plug out the Power supple cable and clear CMOS for 5 min.
after that check if you can see Wifi device under Windows 11 device manager.

I don't use my PC for general use, I use it for gaming which is very intense on the CPU and GPU. The reason I started to lower the cores was because one of the games I was playing was showing 100 degrees Celsius on the CPU. That is way to hot. Once I started lowering the cores the temp went down. So again, why do I have to lower my P and E cores to lower the heat? Is that normal for everyone? I don't think so. Not using OC for a gaming system is like driving a car with old wheels. The CPU has boost tech so it overclocks naturally. That's how gaming hardware works now. My gaming experience would greatly decrease if I didn't use the boost ability this tech comes with. What does one pc of memory mean?

I cleared my CMOS and the WIFI is still not showing in devices, (See attached file)

I will check my BIOS and see if it's the latest.

 

[Svet]

What cooling system you use?
Is it installed correctly and with thermal paste applied by correct way?
Do you use stock /default BIOS's power settings too?

For latest BIOS you can also use this one with 0x12C:

Here it is: >>> E7E25IMS.A93 <<<

What does one pc of memory mean?

He mean one piece of memory stick (1 memory stick etc.) in DIMMA2 slot.

 

[pathomeo15c702f0]

What cooling system you use?
Is it installed correctly and with thermal paste applied by correct way?
Do you use stock /default BIOS's power settings too?

For latest BIOS you can also use this one with 0x12C:





He mean one piece of memory stick (1 memory stick etc.) in DIMMA2 slot.

My cooling system is a noctua nh-d15s. I also have an open top tower that allows more air flow. Heat isn't necessarily a problem because other games have crashed at 80C which is an acceptable level of heat for this hardware. I have zero crashes when I drop the P and E cores and some games get up to the 90C sometimes, without crashing the system. This is the second fan I have had and both work fine, so I think they are installed correctly. The BIOS settings that I use are XMP for the ram boost, and game boost. I can't change the P and E cores with game boost off. Game Boost makes a big difference in how my games play when it is on compared to when it is off. My Bios version is e7e25ims.a81. It looked like there was one newer version on the motherboard driver page. I have two sticks of Trident Z5 DDR5 16GB each in the 2nd slot.

 

[FlyingScot]

I share Svet’s line of questioning. Those CPU temps are off-the-chart for just gaming with an RTX3080. My first reaction is that you have been cooking your components for quite a while. I think a description of your case model and case fan configuration and specs (and picture or two of the case insides) would be helpful in understanding where this heat might be coming from (or why it’s not leaving). Whether it has anything to do with your original issue is not 100% obvious. But it certainly needs to be addressed right away. In regards to your CPU, it might already be too late. You may need to consider determining if your CPU is a candidate for an Intel RMA. Degradation could be a factor at this point.

In regards to the chain of events related to your HDD, and your current situation, my mind goes to the following possibilities:
[1] Your 850W PSU might not be able to handle the extra demand of the HDD in addition to all your other components, especially when the CPU is overclocked. An RTX3080 can pull 350W on its own, and can generate momentary spikes twice that number. Probability: 40%.
[2] Either static from your hands or physical damage from a metal object (or dropped object) damaged the motherboard while you were installing the HDD. Only you can be sure of that not being the case.
[3] You knocked the CPU Cooler out of alignment or it is loose. The application and performance of the Thermal paste might also be part of the issue.
[4] As implied above, you have heat damage or heat stress causing weirdness.
[5] CPU degradation, perhaps caused by a combination of heat and possibly not installing Intel mitigations fast enough. Question: How long have you been running the system and which BIOS version was installed for the majority of that time?
[6] Two or more of the above.

 

[Svet]

My cooling system is a noctua nh-d15s. I also have an open top tower that allows more air flow. Heat isn't necessarily a problem because other games have crashed at 80C which is an acceptable level of heat for this hardware. I have zero crashes when I drop the P and E cores and some games get up to the 90C sometimes, without crashing the system.

This doesn't proof that heat isn't the issue.
If you have poor or loose thermal contacts, you can crash at any displayed temps.
You have less crash when drops those P, E cores, because you reduce the power draw and stress to the CPU, (less heat respective),
which is expected to cause less crash when they are reduced.

Too possible to have some kind of CPU cooler installation issue,
either loose contact with heatsink or thermal paste issue.

I would strongly suggest to redo the CPU cooler and apply new paste by proper way,
and ensure CPU heatsink is installed perfectly.

My Bios version is e7e25ims.a81.

You can try the one that I posted before .A93
(after re-seat the CPU heatsink & apply new paste)

Then retest (leave BIOS settings to defaults while testing)

After that you if still have crashes,
then I would suggest to start checking the Windows Event, System Logs for logged errors after the crashing.

And to do further troubleshoot to isolate the issue based on the errors in there.
Or you can start with stressing CPU only,
then Memory etc. In either case stress 1st without any GPU load.

 

[pathomeo15c702f0]

Guys this has been happening to this CPU right out of the box brand new. When I put this computer together every single piece of hardware was brand new. I have reaplied the heatsink and fan multiple times. I have had this computer for three years. Would my computer still be running at such good performance if the heat was killing it for three years? And 80C is off the chart for a RTX3080? Naw fam, that's actually within ok ranges. It's as far as I will allow it to go, cause once you get closer to 90C then that is too hot. As long as the P and E cores are down a bit, I have no crashes. The fact is, as I do more research, the gen 13 and gen 14 intel chips, I just found out, naturally are unstable. Nvidia even did a memo saying that the CPU's are causing memory issues with their GPU's. Apparently Intel is making unstable chips to out perform AMD chips. So I have my explination. Thank you for your input.

 

[Svet]

The CPU may degraded if you used outdated BIOS version until now,
as Intel did a multiple times fixes for this CPU degradation issue with CPU microcode updates offered by BIOS updates.

I have reaplied the heatsink and fan multiple times.

You mean now or before?

And 80C is off the chart for a RTX3080?

Do test the CPU & Memory with stress tools without using the GPU,
then see if will crash.
Also check the exact errors while crashing in event logs

Another possibility is the PSU is going down. You can try with another good known working, quality and powerful enough PSU.

 

[FlyingScot]

And 80C is off the chart for a RTX3080?

I was actually referring to your comments about your CPU temp. I didn't think we were talking about your GPU temp. Anyway, if you want to catch yourself up on the long Raptor Lake degradation saga, I have many links in my signature as good a place to start...and even end.

BTW, I still think you are missing out not taking a very critical look at your case setup. You've been lucky for three years, but your luck IS going to run out. Probably with the GPU first, if not already with your CPU. Higher temps = higher wear and tear. No way around it.
Cheers!

 

[snowsak]

Bad pump could cause this (he does say heatsink and fan though). Can a bad fan or pump short circuit the motherboard pins? Never seen 80C on my cpu even with continuously high loads and its a 14900K pure default intel settings.