X470 GAMING PLUS MAX & AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.9GHz Maxboost Processor

dameskytowe155802d3

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I have the 600w EVGA silver that only has 8 pins but the MB requires 12pins.
I and getting a solid red cpu light on the EZdebug led.

I have two questions;
1. are the MB and CPU compatible and
2. is my 8 pin PSU the reason for the cpu error?
 

citay

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The two CPU_PWR headers connect together on the PCB (printed circuit board) and feed the VRM (voltage regulator module) of the CPU. They are meant to spread the flow of electricity over two cables and plugs, which improves the electrical properties and prevents the cables and plugs from heating up with extremely high CPU power draw (>300W). Such power draw will not happen with your CPU, it will already work fine with just the 8-pin EPS12V cable connected.

Much more important than using one or two cables for CPU_PWR is the actual quality (and age) of the PSU. Therefore, what is your exact PSU model and its approximate age?
 

dameskytowe155802d3

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Hi Citay,
Thanks for your response I really appreciate it.
I am fairly confident in the PSU because I purchased it less than a year ago brand new and no more than a few weeks ago I was powering a Intel® Core™2 Quad Processor Q9550 which is about a 95w TDP. Didn’t have any issues then.

I attached a screen shot in case you spot something I missed.

Would you agree with me that my next logical troubleshooting step is to evaluate the bios of the motherboard? The unfortunate reality for me is I don’t have a substitute processor to test with or alternate motherboard to test the processor.
What would you recommend ?
 

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Alan J T

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Remove the Ram to See if it will stop on a Ram Debug if it is not installed or if still stopping on CPU error
 

citay

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This is an EVGA 80PLUS White (vanilla), not 80PLUS Silver. So it's most likely the EVGA W1 (i can't see the actual model, it should be further left on the sticker, but it's the most likely one). The EVGA W1 is classed as "Tier F • Replace immediately" on the PSU tier list. It uses a simple Double Forward topology, the secondary side uses passive rectification, all based on a cheap and outdated group-regulated design. They use 20 AWG cables instead of the required thicker 18 AWG. The internal build quality is low. The bridge rectifier is not bolted onto a heatsink, which restricts it to only 3A. The primary capacitor is a cheap CapXon rated at 85°C instead of 105°C, the secondary side capacitors are low-end models from Teapo. Voltage ripple on 12V rail is high, especially when approaching the rated wattage. When exceeding the rated wattage even slightly, the overpower protection circuit is not working and the PSU will self-destruct. The icing on the cake: Efficiency is low in all load ranges.

The X470 GAMING PLUS MAX has no Flash BIOS Button, so your options with the BIOS in case of a problem are very limited, basically restricted to a Clear CMOS. So do that at least, you can either bridge the two JBAT1 pins with a screwdriver, or take out the CMOS battery for a while, both with the PC off.

In the absence of a different CPU or board, i would first test with a different PSU, especially considering your PSU model. Try to borrow a known good and not too old PSU, or actually, i would replace your PSU with a better one no matter what. 80PLUS White efficiency is not sufficient nowadays, not to mention all the other downsides your model has. For that, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU.
 

dameskytowe155802d3

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Remove the Ram to See if it will stop on a Ram Debug if it is not installed or if still stopping on CPU error
Hey Alan,
Thank you for your contribution, I really appreciate the ideas.
I did in fact try that option but to no avail. I surmised that the cycle sequence was cpu, ram and then boot.
 
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dameskytowe155802d3

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This is an EVGA 80PLUS White (vanilla), not 80PLUS Silver. So it's most likely the EVGA W1 (i can't see the actual model, it should be further left on the sticker, but it's the most likely one). The EVGA W1 is classed as "Tier F • Replace immediately" on the PSU tier list. It uses a simple Double Forward topology, the secondary side uses passive rectification, all based on a cheap and outdated group-regulated design. They use 20 AWG cables instead of the required thicker 18 AWG. The internal build quality is low. The bridge rectifier is not bolted onto a heatsink, which restricts it to only 3A. The primary capacitor is a cheap CapXon rated at 85°C instead of 105°C, the secondary side capacitors are low-end models from Teapo. Voltage ripple on 12V rail is high, especially when approaching the rated wattage. When exceeding the rated wattage even slightly, the overpower protection circuit is not working and the PSU will self-destruct. The icing on the cake: Efficiency is low in all load ranges.

The X470 GAMING PLUS MAX has no Flash BIOS Button, so your options with the BIOS in case of a problem are very limited, basically restricted to a Clear CMOS. So do that at least, you can either bridge the two JBAT1 pins with a screwdriver, or take out the CMOS battery for a while, both with the PC off.

In the absence of a different CPU or board, i would first test with a different PSU, especially considering your PSU model. Try to borrow a known good and not too old PSU, or actually, i would replace your PSU with a better one no matter what. 80PLUS White efficiency is not sufficient nowadays, not to mention all the other downsides your model has. For that, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU.
Thanks Citay,
You assessment of the PSU is very insightful. I will take that into consideration.
As far as the CMOS clear option. I also tried that because it does come with a CMOS clear button and I also removes the battery for good measure.
You are correct that my options are very limited at this point but i guess that is just how the cookie crumbles at this point.

Cheers.
 
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