X58 Pro Won't post unless CMOS cleared.

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pigglesworth

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Hi Guys!

I recently assembled a new system, with the following components:

MSI X58 Pro
i7 950
2x Strontium DDR3 4GB 1333MHz [SRT4G86U1-H9M]
ASUS EN8600GT 512MB
Sunpro ATX-550W PSU

When I attempt to boot, the system powers up, all fans, optical & HDDs run for about 10 seconds before turning off then restarting and doing the same thing 5 seconds later. There is no there is no display, no system beeps, the keyboard lights don't flash etc. However, the system will post and boot fine if I hold the CMOS Clear button down while I press the power button, which means the the CMOS must be cleared every time the system is booted, which is very irritating. I've breadboarded the motherboard, it does the exact same thing when on a piece of cardboard with any combination of hardware, including from bare CPU, one stick of RAM, graphics card and keyboard. I've swapped the PSU with a lower capacity one (it's all I had) and the same things happens. The system performs fine once booted. I have rum memtest86 for a couple of hours without error and flashed to the latest BIOS but it has had no affect.
Has anybody experienced/solved a similar problem? I'll try using different RAM or graphics when I can borrow them off a friend but at the moment I'm all out of ideas :/ This is doing my head in!

Sorry for a massive first post, any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: I should also mention, the system restarts fine without requiring a CMOS clearing, however when it's turned off and left for more than 10 seconds, it requires clearing of the CMOS.
 
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Can you please provide full PSU specifications? (amperage limits (A) on the main voltage rails)

Also, please set your memory clock speed to DDR3-1066 in BIOS Setup and raise the memory voltage to 1.55V.  Then retest.
 
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Changing the DRAM voltage (Including to 1.5V) results in the system shutting down when you save and exit the BIOS but not instantly powering back on like normal, it won't restart until the CMOS is reset. Otherwise, when saviing and exiting the BIOS, the system boots as usual, with the new settings saved. 
Important rail capacities are:

+5V:    38A
+3.3V:  28A
+12V:    17A

Cheers!
 
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Changing the DRAM voltage (Including to 1.5V) results in the system shutting down when you save and exit the BIOS but not instantly powering back on like normal, it won't restart until the CMOS is reset.
Click to expand...

In that case, leave the voltage setting as it is and only make sure that the memory clock speed is manually set to DDR3-1066 [again, use one memory module only for testing].

-----------

+5V:    38A
+3.3V:  28A
+12V:    17A
Click to expand...

If there really is only one +12V rail with an amperage limit of only 17A, then you should immediately stop using your system with that PSU installed (regardless of whether or not the PSU is the direct cause for your problem).  An quality 550W PSU can deliver at least 35-40A on the +12V circuit.  The mere fact that your device is limited to 17A on this most important rail (=12V x 17A = 205W only!) either means that your PSU is very, very old or that your PSU is an el-cheapo device of questionable quality.  You should get rid of it and get something decent.
 
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Yeah the other rails are just -12V, -5V and the 5V standby. So if it only mentions one +12V, that means there is only one 12V rail? I thought having two +12V rails was part of the ATX standard? The PSU was manufactured in 2007 :/ would an underpowered CPU be likely to cause this sort of trouble? Anyway, time to get a new one still!

Jack said:
In that case, leave the voltage setting as it is and only make sure that the memory clock speed is manually set to DDR3-1066 [again, use one memory module only for testing].
Click to expand...
Manually setting the DRAM frequency to 1066MHz results in the same system behaviour as changing the voltage (Even though it's usually running at 1066MHz automatically). Interestingly though, I've found by experimenting that changing the DRAM voltage to 1.5V is the only voltage that allows the BIOS to save and reboot correctly.
 
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Don't even try to run your PC again with that PSU. +12V~17A is not even 1/2 the amps needed and you stand a very good chance of serious damage to the components in your PC trying to use it. You are overloading it and you are lucky that it fails to run on that PSU by shutting itself down.

You should have a PSU that has at least +12V~30A single rail. Even a Corsair VX450 has 33A on it's single +12V rail, their VX550 has +12V~41A. That old thing you have is not fit for a modern computer.

Edit: I would recommend you get a Corsair TX650 (+12V~52A) in case you want to upgrade your VGA card later.
 
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Yeah a new PSU fixed it, everything works fine now :D

I ended up going with an Aerocool E80-500, I would love to be able to afford a Corsair but I'm already well over budget :/
The 45A on the 12V rails that the box claims it can handle should be plenty for what I don't plan to be much of a gaming PC. I can't believe the system ever booted at all with such an inadequate piece of crap PSU. I should have known not to trust a company called Sun Pro :/

Anyway cheers guys for the help, this had been driving me nuts for days. I'm now much less ignorant about power supplies than I was before.
 
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