Z690 A Pro - Need to cycle power to get display

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Hello,
I get no display and no bootup on initial power on. Upon powering off then on again the display comes on and the system boots. The system works fine after this, but it is really annoying. A restart results in a no display and the computer does not boot. Every restart I must cycle the power to get a bootup and display.

Things I've tried as a fix (With same results):
1. Flashed bios to latest version
2. Reset BIOS to "optimized defaults"
3. Added and removed GTX1060 (External GPU card)
4. Tried an LG and Dell monitor with different HDMI cables.
5. Tried different Keyboards (Corsair and Microsoft)

Specs:
Z690 A Pro Motherboard
CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200 (PC5-41600) C40 1.25V - Black
Intel Core i5-12600K Desktop Processor 10 (6P+4E) Cores up to 4.9 GHz Unlocked LGA1700 600 Series Chipset 125W
Samsung Electronics 870 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD
EVGA 220-G3-0650-Y1 SuperNOVA 650 G3, 80 Plus Gold 650W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan
 
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citay

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What's the model of your monitor? What's your PSU? What's "Advanced Default", you mean "load optimized defaults"? What graphics outputs did you try? Can you try with different cables?
Can you check if your NVIDIA needs this firmware update?
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Hello Citay,
1. The PSU is "EVGA 220-G3-0650-Y1 SuperNOVA 650 G3, 80 Plus Gold 650W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan"
I should note the power seems fine, just their is no display until cycling it. The no display happens if I do a restart from Win 11 as well, then I have to cycle power.
2. By Advanced default I did mean optimized defaults...
3. I have tried different cables and different monitors. I have tried an Dell UHD monitor and a HD LG monitor.
4. I have removed the NVIDIA card, it was just an attempt to see how that affected the issue. As stated issue was still present with or without added GPU card.
 
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citay

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Can you check on your board (i assume you have the PRO Z690-A), just above the 24-pin ATX plug, there should be four EZ Debug LEDs, what do they show when it doesn't want to boot?
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Here are the color sequences that I observed, the lights flash then go out, nothing stays on:
1. No Display and No boot
Yellow, Red, Yellow
2. Working boot with display
Red, Yellow, White
3. Restart from Win 11, no display, no boot
Red, Yellow, Red
 
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citay

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I don't know the colors, can you check what LED they correspond to? There's top to bottom - CPU, RAM, VGA. BOOT.

What you can do is, further strip down the system until you have the bare minimum. Disconnect the SATA drive first (i know it won't boot Windows then) and see if it does anything. Remove the RAM stick from slot B2 and leave only the one in A2. If the behaviour is still the same, you could do a CPU socket pins inspection. Take out the CPU and carefully inspect the underside and especially the socket for any bent pins, foreign objects, dirt, or other abnormalities. Check carefully (with a magnifying glass, if possible) if all the socket pins look exactly the same, in position and in height. If the pads under the CPU and some pins of the socket don't make proper contact, you can have all kinds of problems. If some pins look bent (even very slightly), please make photos of the socket from different angles and upload them/link them here, i will tell you the chance of being able to repair it.

However, if the pins are all perfectly aligned, you can put the CPU back in. I should tell you, for the best cooling results, you should now clean the CPU heatspreader and the cooler base. Because when you re-use old heatpaste, there can be trapped air bubbles which won't be good. So ideally you'd clean it and then apply new heatpaste. I use soft, lint-free paper towels and q-tips dipped in high-purity isopropanol alcohol to clean, and then apply a generous drop of new heatpaste onto the middle of the CPU, at least the size of a large grain of rice. It will be spread by the cooler pressure.
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Although I can not find documentation for which color is which I think it would be from top to bottom like this:
From Bottom:
RED - Spot 1 - CPU
Yellow - Spot 2 - RAM
? - Spot 3 - VGA
White - spot 4 - Boot

If this is correct my non working sequence seems to go RAM-CPU-RAM instead of CPU-RAM-BOOT. I think the most likely scenario is a RAM issue since they have to try to account for so many different specs and brands. I have the RAM in A2,B2 slots and the manual states it is optimal. I will try different things with the RAM and see if there are any changes.
 

citay

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The socket pins inspection is also in regards to RAM problems. A lot of the pins on the right side of the socket go straight to the memory slots, since the CPU houses the IMC (integrated memory controller). This can cause problems such as bad RAM slots, read here for example. Whenever there is weird, inexplicable behaviour on Intel, it's good to check if the socket pins are still perfectly aligned, because they bend very easily and can cause these sorts of issues. Yes, i know it's a hassle to check, but so are the symptoms you are experiencing.
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Disconnected SSD. Tried single DDR in A2 with both sticks. Still had same results (Except I get a green light at end of color cycle). I will check the socket CPU pins. My only thought with that is that I would expect consistent issues that wouldn't go way with a power cycle. It appears you cannot even try A1 instead as just the yellow light stays on if I try A1 slot.
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Leaving this post for history, but I was wrong about the cooler. It could be removed from the other side via screws.

To remove the CPU, I must remove the cooler. To remove the cooler, I must remove the motherboard from the case. This means I will need to remove almost all the components from the case in order to inspect these pins. If I am going to go through all that work then I want to make sure that I do not have to remove everything again. I think the most likely fix is a different case might have a bigger opening behind the motherboard were I can get access to the cooler sliders and pins without removal from case.

GOPR0235.JPG
 
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citay

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Oh my, that's a hassle. But that's how it is sometimes with PCs. Once something is reasonably complex and some things are not ideally thought through, this can be the result. Like, in some cars you spend half an hour replacing a lamp in the headlights because it's so hard to get to.
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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Congrats, you are correct, bent pins. I've been built my own PCs since 1996, never broke anything before. I guess my failing eyesight is to blame.

GOPR0241.JPG
 

schuler.bil15f602ec

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It looks like there might be a few pins affected, so I think it's best to order a new motherboard and case. I was wrong about needing to remove the blocked pins to remove the cooler, it was accessible from the front via screws. Thank you for your help. I do not understand how the pins got bent when the bottom of the CPU is flat. Maybe they were bent when I got the motherboard, who knows.
 

citay

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Yup, unfortunately my hunch is confirmed. Those socket pins bend very easily, so it can happen with a slight touch or wobble of the CPU as you install it. Since the board has a plastic socket protection cover installed from factory, it's unlikely to have come with bent pins like that. But even that plastic cover falling into the socket or whatever could easily bend a few pins like this. Not suggesting it did, just as an example of how little it takes.

In case you want to try your hand at fixing it: If it's not a severe bend, you could carefully try to nudge (not pull) the pins back into position. Bent socket pins can easily break, so you don't want to grab them and force them back into position. You just want to gently prod/push them in the right direction, never bend them back and forth. Watch this, he has managed to do it (although he doesn't show the process itself). In this video for example, they talk about bent pins at 37:17 mins, and shortly after they show one way of properly installing a CPU into an LGA socket. I always gently lower it flat into the socket. And another bent pins video here. You could also try to have a watchmaker/jeweller repair it, someone like that has the tools and skills to do such intricate work.

Or if you don't want to do anything yourself, you could sell this board with the clear mention of the symptom, the bent pins, and a photo of the socket. People with the skill for fixing the pins will gladly buy this board at a discount and make it fully working again, so it won't be a total loss for you.
 
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schuler.bil15f602ec

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Thank you for your help. It was a bad situation, but it has ended well. I used a new case and motherboard and everything is working great now. Full new specs at bottom. I've thought about reloading the software fresh just in case the issues caused corruption. Because I have not experienced any issues, I am leaning towards no fresh reinstall. .

Specs:
Z690 A Pro Motherboard
CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200 (PC5-41600) C40 1.25V - Black
Intel Core i5-12600K Desktop Processor 10 (6P+4E) Cores up to 4.9 GHz Unlocked LGA1700 600 Series Chipset 125W
Samsung Electronics 870 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD
EVGA 220-G3-0650-Y1 SuperNOVA 650 G3, 80 Plus Gold 650W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan
Case MSI MPG GUNGNIR 110R
SSD SAMSUNG 870 EVO 4TB
SSD WD Blue 500GB x 2
 
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