Z77A-GD65 suddenly won't post

etran8151602d7

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Oct 29, 2024
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Hi. My PC suddenly won't start. Windows went to sleep at some point and since then, my PC won't post. All the regular LEDs on the motherboard are on. All the regular Fans are on. But the Debug LED is flashing 19 and 00. One thing that is strange is the GPU LEDs don't turn on but the 3 GPU fans are spinning.

I've tried to reset the bios, change the battery, pressed the reset bios in the back of the motherboard, changed multi-bios back and forth. Still no post

I managed to secure a different set of RAM, which managed to get the PC to post and boot to windows, but after a second try, there was no post at all. Nothing on the monitors. Tried to seat ram stick (one) in all different slots and still no post.

Thanks for looking and thanks for helping.


Main Board: Z77A-GD65
Bios Version: Can't get PC to post to bios so I can't tell what version it is. But I'm pretty sure I've updated the bios in the past given the computer is 12 years old now.
Video Card: Gigabyte 1080ti
PSU brand and model: XFX 750W PRO XXX from 2012
12v rail Rating of listed PSU: 65A_______________________________________
CPU: Intel i7 3770k _______________________________________
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16gb 1600mhz 1.5 stock timings 10-10-10-27_______________________________________
SSD/ HDD: Crucial 500gig MX500 _______________________________________
CPU COOLER: Antec Kuhler 920 AIO_______________________________________
OC: ( No)
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro_______________________________________
 
PSU brand and model: XFX 750W PRO XXX from 2012

This is a top suspect here. PSUs have electrolytic capacitors inside which deteriorate over time. With an older PC developing a problem, it has a good chance to stem from those capacitors having lost enough of their filtering and buffering properties to make the board throw a hissy fit. So i would replace it with a new PSU, see my Guide: How to find a good PSU. Of course, you can try with a different borrowed PSU first. The other PSU has to be known good, not too old, and of decent quality. Connect it on-the-fly using its own cables, one 24-pin ATX one and one 8-pin CPU one.
 
Hi Citay,
Thanks, i'll pick up a new power supply (thinking the Be Quiet Pure Power 12). Its under the "speculative list" under A-Tiear PSU. But it seems well reviewed.

As you can tell, my current rig is quite old, and this new power supply will contribute to a new rig that I will soon build.
 
I recently used a be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 650W for a PC i built someone. Using the OCCT "Power" stress test (which simply causes maximum CPU and GPU load simultaneously, a scenario which won't happen in daily use, as either the CPU or GPU are at full load, but in gaming, the CPU is only at half load), i could make the PC draw well over 500W from the wall (thanks largely to the powerful GPU), which that PSU had no problem with and didn't cause too much noise either. Or maybe it was just drowned out by the GPU's fans. With any lighter use, it was very quiet indeed. So there's a little anecdotal evidence as well.
 
So i bought the be quiet! Pure Power 850w power supply, hooked everything up and unfortunately I get the same result. System powers on, debug LED flashes "19", no post. GPU LEDs also remain off like before. What's strange is that when I take all the ram out of the motherboard, the GPU lights turn back on. I've tried ram slotted in every configuration (single stick, all 4 slots). What else could the flashing 19 be?
 
The PSU was good to replace anyway, and it was our best bet. However, it's possible that the motherboard has developed an issue. Any hardware that's 12 years old is subject to the rising bathtub curve of failures. Normally the PSU causes problems the soonest, and it still might have had a hand in it, meaning, it may have caused something, but now that the damage is done, you can connect the best PSU in the world and it wouldn't undo anything. We just have to try and troubleshoot further.

Are you able to put the GeForce into another system and check if it needs this firmware update? Also, i would put a new CMOS battery (CR2032) into the board. When you replace the battery, remove the mains power and press the power button. That then doubles as a "deep" Clear CMOS.

If you have another system you can check the RAM in, that would also be good in order to rule it out.
 
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