Z790i Edge Wifi, base on CPU capacitors looks 'wet' ?

[carmati158702e2]

I have a 13700K on a z790i Edge Wifi mobo with an AIO watercooler, running completely stock speeds and voltages, I also used Conductonaut to try to minimize the thermal throttling... It was working perfectly for the last month
But over the last few days, my computer has been getting less and less stable, a few days ago it was random hangs when I was playing games, then BSOD's, instant reboots and shutdowns with anything CPU intensive, I updated to the latest BIOS to see if it helped but it didn't, I had to increase various voltages like vcore, cpu aux, vccsa, etc in the BIOS just to keep booting into windows ... and yesterday it finally refused to boot into anything, not even a bootable USB stick
I decided to investigate by disassembling my computer, and when I took off the waterblock, I saw this:

why do the base on some of the capacitors look so wet? it is a bit hard to see in the picture because the wetness makes it shiny,but it definitely is not any stray liquid metal, whatever this fluid is, it is is soaking or staining the PCB and has a dark colour and is slowly evaporating at the edges

 

[carmati158702e2]

there was a scary moment when I was trying to make it use adaptive voltage with + offset, with the voltage set to 'auto'... before this, the vcore was automatically set between 1.2 v and 1.4v, but after a failed boot and an 'overclock failed' message, I got into bios and saw this:

 

[RemusM]

I have a 13700K on a z790i Edge Wifi mobo with an AIO watercooler, running completely stock speeds and voltages, I also used Conductonaut to try to minimize the thermal throttling... It was working perfectly for the last month
But over the last few days, my computer has been getting less and less stable, a few days ago it was random hangs when I was playing games, then BSOD's, instant reboots and shutdowns with anything CPU intensive, I updated to the latest BIOS to see if it helped but it didn't, I had to increase various voltages like vcore, cpu aux, vccsa, etc in the BIOS just to keep booting into windows ... and yesterday it finally refused to boot into anything, not even a bootable USB stick

Are you sure about that "completely stock speeds and voltages"?
Because the first photo shows the results of overvolting and overclocking.
And that VCore = 1.735V from the 2nd photo leads to damaged CPU in most of the cases.
Can you post complete system specs (memory type and amount, PSU, GPU, etc)?

 

[carmati158702e2]

Kingston FURY 32GB (2x16GB) 6400MHz CL32 Renegade Silver
Lian Li SP850 850W 80 Plus Gold
MSI RTX4080 Ventus card which fits in my NR200 case

 

[carmati158702e2]

the trouble started when i clicked on 'Speed Optimizer' in XTU and it increased the multipliers by one and increased the vcore by 0.2v , that was when the first crashes started and it just went downhill from there, I reset everything to defaults but the stability never came back

ever since then the closest thing I had done to overclocking was to increase the voltages more and more before the numbers turned red in the bios while trying to boot at stock and below-stock speeds.... when none of that worked, that's when I started dissasembling my computer and found the fluids at the base of the capacitors

 

[carmati158702e2]

And that VCore = 1.735V from the 2nd photo leads to damaged CPU in most of the cases.

what could lead the bios to suddenly select 1.545v for vcore when I set it to 'Auto' ? it was around 1.1 to 1.2 volts before, and I needed the positive offset (resulting in 1.3-1.4 vcore) just to boot into Windows , at least for a few hours before it stopped booting at all

And then suddenly, not only did it fail to POST, it also set a wildly higher vcore automatically

 

[RemusM]

Kingston FURY 32GB (2x16GB) 6400MHz CL32 Renegade Silver
Lian Li SP850 850W 80 Plus Gold
MSI RTX4080 Ventus card which fits in my NR200 case

You need to borrow another PSU and another CPU.
The current PSU might be fine, but you don't want to "fry" the 2nd CPU.
Reset the CMOS (load the BIOS defaults settings) and be sure XMP is disabled (run the memory at 4800MHz).
If all good, try with your CPU again.
If you still cannot boot up, your motherboard is damaged (as well).

 

[carmati158702e2]

The current PSU might be fine, but you don't want to "fry" the 2nd CPU.

How can I trust this motherboard again after it had decided to automatically overvolt my CPU? Also, the motherboard is the only component which exhibits a visible physical anomaly (fluid at capacitors' bases)

 

[RemusM]

How can I trust this motherboard again after it had decided to automatically overvolt my CPU? Also, the motherboard is the only component which exhibits a visible physical anomaly (fluid at capacitors' bases)

More then likely, your CPU is already damaged (due to that 1.735V VCore for a long period of time).
Those (3) capacitors don't look damaged. That's the result of overvolting (and maybe high temps in that area).
But if you have the chance to test with another motherboard, that's a plus.

 

[glenntidbur156f02e4]

This is a tad concerning, as I've always left it at auto too when trying to undervolt. I leave core at auto, set adaptive+off set, choose "-" offset and then pick a value, such as 0.07.

If I were to not choose auto, what voltage value should you put in the core voltage, for a 12700k?

 

[carmati158702e2]

More then likely, your CPU is already damaged (due to that 1.735V VCore for a long period of time).

it was at that voltage only long enough to take a picture and get a heat warning in the BIOS, and of course I pulled the power right after that
the main problem is, why did my system stability deteriorate to the point of not being able to boot anything? And in the course of that deterioration, why did the motherboard suddenly overvolt the CPU? If my CPU is damaged due to this, is this my fault?

 

[carmati158702e2]

Those (3) capacitors don't look damaged. That's the result of overvolting (and maybe high temps in that area).

I had never input any vcore higher than 1.45v in the bios, and my offset voltage values are based on the readings I observed in the bios and never add up >1.45v, the only time it exceeded that voltage was when it automatically sent 1.735v after that one time it failed to POST
But the main problem is still, the sudden decrease in stability leading to this chain of events

Also, it is technically possible for a capacitor to fail without bulging, depending on the specific type of construction defect it has (bad seal, etc)

 

[RemusM]

the only time it exceeded that voltage was when it automatically sent 1.735v after that one time it failed to POST
But the main problem is still, the sudden decrease in stability leading to this chain of events

You need to open a ticket with MSI.
We cannot help you in this forum with service and replacements.
But I don't think they will pay for a damaged CPU ...

 

[glenntidbur156f02e4]

Aren't there protections in place to prevent over voltage? These must have been disabled? Unless there's a serious fault with the system somewhere?

 

[citay]

Those capacitors are "solid" caps, they use a solid electrolyte which therefore can't really leak. They also don't have a predetermined breaking point to be able to vent, because they are not prone to pressure buildup, they are almost impossible to burst. For sure it looks odd what's happened on your board, but there really is not much that can leak out of a solid cap.

Aren't there protections in place to prevent over voltage?

Yes, from the board/BIOS, but when that board/BIOS itself misbehaves, it probably won't observe its own limits anymore.

What is your CPU cooler? Do you have adequate airflow in such a small system?

I also used Conductonaut to try to minimize the thermal throttling...

This raises an eyebrow. You have a very thirsty CPU model (especially when running with power limits maxed out), you have to minimize thermal throttling, and then you start to overclock...? Did you keep an eye on your sensors with HWinfo64 for example, including the MOS (MOSFET / VRM) and system temperatures? Due to everything having to be so close together on a Mini-ITX-sized board, things can get toasty quite easily, you always need to make sure your temperatures are manageable.

Your PSU is overall pretty good, i don't expect the problems to originate from there necessarily. Although something like a different PSU is easier to test than other things.

 

[carmati158702e2]

Aren't there protections in place to prevent over voltage? These must have been disabled?

the bios was previously setting 'Auto' vcore as 1.1-1.2v, and I found that I needed an offset of positive 0.2v just to be able to boot into windows .... and then suddenly, it automatically set the vcore to over 1.5v, with the offset previously being 0.19v , this resulted in 1.735v vcore

 

[carmati158702e2]

This raises an eyebrow. You have a very thirsty CPU model (especially when running with power limits maxed out), you have to minimize thermal throttling, and then you start to overclock...?

I only clicked on 'Speed Optimizer' that one time to see if it helped in games which do not use the CPU 100% , when it became unstable I immediately set everything back to stock, I was not expecting permanent hardware damage

What is your CPU cooler? Do you have adequate airflow in such a small system?

pcpartpicker.com/b/CVDcCJ similar to this , a 2x120mm AIO loop ... I was using FanControl and it was tracking the VRM temperatures which max out at just under 60 degrees celcius

 

[carmati158702e2]

::edit::

 

[RemusM]

I have a 13700K on a z790i Edge Wifi mobo with an AIO watercooler, running completely stock speeds and voltages,
I also used Conductonaut to try to minimize the thermal throttling... It was working perfectly for the last month
...
I had never input any vcore higher than 1.45v in the bios

VCore = 1.45V is not a stock voltage.
In fact that's a dangerous voltage for your CPU and a Mini-ITX board (problematic cooling).
Not only that you won't get any replacement for the damaged CPU, but I get the feeling your motherboard warranty is gone as well.
p.s.
Why did you buy this board if you're interested in overclocking/overvolting activities?

 

[carmati158702e2]

VCore = 1.45V is not a stock voltage.
In fact that's a dangerous voltage for your CPU and a Mini-ITX board (problematic cooling).
Not only that you won't get any replacement for the damaged CPU, but I get the feeling your motherboard warranty is gone as well.
p.s.
Why did you buy this board if you're interested in overclocking/overvolting activities?

I should clarify that I never booted into Windows at that voltage, the effective vcore was 1.2v to 1.35v when it was working properly, and as the system became more unstable I needed higher voltages just to boot into Windows... the 1.45vcore (auto 1.25v + 0.2v offset) was much later when the motherboard had already degraded to the point where nothing was booting at any lower voltages, and even then I only got into the BIOS
But now I realize that relying on 'Auto' can be dangerous as it might suddenly set over 1.5v as has happened