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capten-corkTopic starter

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【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« on: 11-June-16, 12:30:26 »

 "Light Glass"

Welcome to my next project " Light Glass " .

As the name suggests, I will in this project an ATX Acrylic Case construct in which a lot of acrylic glass and some aluminum is used.

Here is a little taste of what I had before .

Is perhaps not very impressive but better than on a piece of paper and when you see what I have done from my last project , I am hopeful . :)

These are the very first 3D models I've ever made ​​.

The Concept:

My concept is as much transparency in connection with frosted acrylic glass front . Some contrasts are decorated in white and minimal black .

There are transparent acrylic tubes 16/12 are fitted with white coolant .

The transparent housing should be kept as small as possible and just cover the hardware .

In the base should still find a 360mm radiator square next to the power supply and a DVD / Blueray drive.

The Hardware:

Mainboard: MSI Z170 Titanium Edition
CPU: Intel Core I7 6700K
Ram: Avexir Raiden 4 x 4 Gb 2400Mhz
Grafikkarte: 2 x MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC
SSD: Avexir S100 Series
Power Supply: Cooler Master V 750

The Water Cooling:

CPU block: EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel
GPU block: EK-FC970 GTX TFX - Nickel
Terminal: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel - Plexi
Reservoirs: EK-RES X3 250 - White
Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360
acrylic tubes: EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm
acrylic tubes fittings: EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White
fans: 3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM
Winkel: CoolForce 90° drehbarer Anschluss Adapter G1/4


Keyboard: Cooler Master Quick Fire XTi
Mouse: Cooler Master Reaper
Mousepad: Cooler Master Swift-RX L
Headset: Cooler Master Sirus 5.1
Fan: Thermaltake Riing White
Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48
Driver ULN2003
Ultrasonic sensor HC SR04
90db buzzer
Arduino Nano
infrared receiver
capacitor 1000 microfarad
Wiederstaand 470 Ohm
div. Pins Connectors
Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B

So much for my basic idea .

The planning and preparation has been underway for several weeks , the details will follow shortly !

I hope you like the idea and you supported me wherever they can.

Sponsored by


capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #1 on: 12-June-16, 05:00:03 »

So then let's go .

Bending former No.1:

Since I am quite at the point at the beginning of my project and do not know how much more will happen to me , is the motto SAVE !

Needed angle and something round , what I found ?

Leftovers from my Dreamy Water Framework and an old leg a bar.

From this could be determined to do something , I thought.

So I first halved to 2 angle trim the square of the length .

And the table leg tailored to length .

Now everything interconnected , clean at right angles , of course

That looked so far quite good , because I was working on an actual bending device ( which we refer later ) , I have ever tried the simple method .

The object to be bent is clamped at the other end a few clamps and stretched HEATER with the heat gun , then exercise gravity .

Has so far also worked quite well , but the result was more than unsatisfactory .

Even though I ( was the test object can also totally wrong clamped ) at the point with more patience and better technology could achieve a more beautiful result ,

but was aware that the radius absolutely not my needs are met . So brainstorm was only times announced.

At the point I can also help me of you .  ;)  :P

Since one always get your best ideas while working there went with the

bender No.1 on.

The I had ever seen in Ali and I thought this must be but can extend over a larger area .

So my first issues .

Ab bought the hardware store , wood and angle at Ebay a reconditions Wire , Kanthal wire , constantan wire or guitar strings . All usable , I bought the first two .

Now two boards with angles associated with so much distance that suits the wire in between.

The angle completely wrong mounted from below rather than from above and off-center but right-aligned . I had unfortunately found only after weeks toturial in English .

That's why I was able to try out my new router at the point times , the last was at Aldi offer .

The limited hours is often come to use .

Someone said : Those who buy cheap buy 2 times !!

I say Who buys expensive , not builds . Because he has no more money !!   :D

from underneath

even a stop at an angle mounted ( also wrong again , which is slightly rounded bottom as can thin plates slip purely and due to temperature difference is the choice of material also not optimal , I have him replaced by wood )

On the surface I have glued aluminum foil with spray adhesive .

And I just could not find the correct power supply I had simply times tough connect the wire to 220V here . : pillepalle :

Were NEN mighty bang everything was bright and so it looked then from : : lol : Do not TRY THIS !!!!

Well, after I had corrected all errors , instead of aluminum foil I have folded a steel plate and bonded with Sikaflex , seen the whole like this:

Since the correct power supply had only ordered because you get a PC power supply only a maximum of 40cm to glow I made here my first attempts ( no hair dryer ) .

The PSU has the way the bucket during this experiment . ? (

because I could not heat up long enough for the defective power supply , it with double-sided heating (in addition with hairdryer ) also works much better and I have the temperature difference to the bending form is not observed, these results were not satisfactory .

It should be noted : The Kanthal must 'll tensioned with a spring over the entire length in order to keep the tension .

As the leading power at the ends of a slotted screw very well because on the one hand align the position and the height can be adjusted other .

Well as you could see in the background already, the development phase was nearing completion and I was able to start the Beta phase.

The bending device NR.2 (the edges of acrylic glass)

Following the example of my first attempts I could see the small bender create no problem.

Since I have the plexiglass plate is always heated on one side only at the beginning I was able to create a clean edge but on the edges there were small cracks despite adequate temperature.

Heating by both sides, in addition to a hot-air hair dryer / blower, I was able to increase the quality still is many times

rounding right

the same on the bottom right

Here are the AC Power Adapter that I've bought for about 20 Euro at EBay. 24V 15A

and although there was nothing in the description can be there even rules of 18-28V

So now it was only create The final shape for the side part.

Housing depth is about 24cm which should be just under 5cm deducted for the cables behind the motherboard (incl. Wall thicknesses) remain 19cm.

So I decided for a radius of 16cm!  :whistling:

Even if I wanted to press yes to the work, did not help, it had to be a professional form.

Again from the hardware store, be advised that some wood quite well can be forms, I know it not still but something they have sold me, and it has also worked quite well.

So 8 boards only times the radius penciled:

Then it was time to cut

all ground still plan

now milled recess for bracing

and glued together

yes I know I need a lot more and much bigger clamps

Now here again applied the glue and glued to be bent shape

I thought it breaks through, because it was really stiff, but worked fine  :rolleyes:

So, apart from a few bending tests my preparatory phase has been completed and I'll probably order tomorrow the material.  :thumbsup:

So on we go :

The required  Material [/size]has finally arrived .

The acrylic glass for foundation

The acrylic glass for the showcase

and the aluminum profiles for the foundation

So then , I immediately to the skeleton for the Base[/b][/size] made.
All parts cut to size , filed a length and deburred .
Then all the parts were connected together , cut with thread M3.

The protruding screws will I later cut all and probably glue with liquid metal.

So you can even make you a better picture of the size , here's a comparison to my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 !
Clear a Midi Tower I need not put beside it, which would be just as large as the base . :)

Next, I am Polishing [/size] practiced me something and the cube made ​​with the I'll screw the acrylic sheets in the visible range with each other .
Since I have cut to size of the cover , an industrial expansion tank , 3cm cubes .

With the blow torch to it has been seen in the photo , I've tried me once in flame polishing , but that did not work .
The has no constant power .

First I have the sawn edges sanded by machine dry with 180 and 240 paper

and then worked my way up to 320 , 400 and 600 wet sandpaper .

Normally, one should not go to the 2000 paper but that I had not and the result is sufficient for this purpose .

Then I worked on all surfaces until the blue and then the red polishing paste with a polishing felt .
Not to conclude with a car polish and a cotton top .
Left to right

I love the result , for my first attempts not so bad .

Should 3cm cubes later look too chunky I will this reduce to 2cm .

So it was time again for the time being .

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #2 on: 14-June-16, 12:33:18 »

As you might have already noticed, I was invited to the Game City in Wien with my project "Dreamy Water", why I in this Con does not really get on because we are working on the details for the dwarf  since several weeks.

A little bit I've done yet. :P

SSD Tray

Really good pictures I have not done since I again seemed to me a little clumsy .  8)

So here I have made myself familiar with the first direction of the router,found the whole mass, how far the stop must be removed from the router etc.
milled first time with a V - groove cutter , the depth of the tray.

Then we continued with a chamfer cutter

looked pretty out unevenly,until I had it only once halfway again sanded smooth

Now I've worked my way again with180er,240er,320er,400er to 600er  sandpaper high.

There is still no master fell from the sky!  ;)
I like it but better than expected.

On the back I'm still a little hollow mill to integrate a LED stripe there.

In addition to my preparations for the Game City has also done a little in this project .

I have received a Packet:

Thanks hereby

for the great support.

There were definitely some nice stuff in there

3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM to cool the 360s radiator in the base.

Then the Swift-RX Lmouse pad.

Next, you can still see the Reaper mouse.

very cool packaging

White LED lighting fits perfectly to my concept .

I believe I will change a few things .

The lighting in the front acts like a flashlight in the dark .  :D

then the Sirus 5.1 Heatset.
The previous best wearing comfort which I had by all Heat Sets.
That says a glasses with big ears
(comparison to G35, medusa NX,Creative WOW,steelseries 7H)

last but not least the Cooler Master V 750


capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #3 on: 16-June-16, 09:00:42 »

And on we go....

Now that I have the power supply , I could obstruct the same , but I just had to put an additional angle

Then I realized my idea of a new Reservoir Holder, In addition I have cut off a 80 / 70mm tube obliquely

cut and a slightly oblique hole, everything sanded flat and smooth

The oblique neck was not very symmetrical,I have already revised,
but I am not yet come to grind because I lack even an acrylic rod of the I will build the holder.
The entire tube gets then from 3 sides a 5mm threaded around the reservoir to fix with screws.

Because I want to anyway have a slightly riveted look outside,(So all 5-10cm black screws) all exterior parts interconnect,
I had to tinker still a few angles for (the polished cubes are only for securing the curved lid).
So I could not take my bender equal test times again and broaden my experience with acrylic glass. ;)

The front I additionally heated by the hot air blower to provide feed for uniform temperature.

The result was quite good until here, I would have just left the tempering, since all angles have fully cleared so I could do it all again.

The angle measure I have subsequently sawed cope

ground and deburred all edges

works better than by hand with this grinding holder so I could avoid to round the edge.

since the ends have but bent a little high, I will shorten this yet

Finally, as I understood now everything had gathered around me to build a sliding door, I was able to assemble the track yet.
For that I had to put something back to the top corner from the base frame


Here we go finally on.

The first parts for the water cooling arrived.

is so kind to support my project. Thank you.

First, the EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White and the EK-AF Pass-Through G1/4 - Black

Then the brand new EK-RES X3 250 - White

and the EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel

which then also clear that motherboard comes in this mod for use. ;)

Next, the window which I received a while ago.

Thus, a heartfelt thanks to firm

for the discount and support.

Before I continue working on the case right, I'm going to color-customize your mouse, keyboard and headset for the concept.
These are as quick as possible Updates!


First a huge thanks to

for the discount that allows me the beautiful mod.

Also a thank you to

for the provision of peripheries.

First, the Quickfire XTI keyboard.

After some fumbling I got the keyboard but then dismantled get without damaging them.
This I then taped.
After I cleaned it was primed with a special plastic primer and then painted 2 times with champagne pearl plus 2 layers of clear coat

The Reaper mouse I could completely disassemble all parts and paint just like the XTI.

Now the headset Sirus 5.1.

Here absolutely nothing worked.
Firstly, many parts of the housing are plugged in and clipped these were then but back melted to leave to make way for other parts.
Thus I could not disassemble optimally to work clean the headset.
On the other hand went here with my coat absolutely nothing.

Unfortunately, it is not the color which dissolves there but the plastic itself, with every clean the surface it will only get worse.
I have it sanded best and just hammer out by many smaller operations.
A masterpiece, this is not, I know absolutely not what I can do there yet, since all other paints to make any liability to the plastic.

The earcups I dyed with leather color, this process I had to repeat almost 10 times until the result was fairly satisfactory.

The head pad I covered with my white leather

Done, so here are the results.
The XTI got a completely white Keycapset, a silver set of internal keys, Silver Arrow and Caseking ESC key.

On Case I have to continue working, more accurate about this soon! ;)

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #4 on: 19-June-16, 03:37:01 »

So now again an update .
I had still been missing some dice, so I was mostly busy when next to the dwarf was still time.
Is really very time-consuming, error does not forgive a so something else must be to start from scratch.

so I could finally start all parts together.
So all the holes have been drilled and cut thread

and then everything bolted together

Now I could see the radius exactly on the side parts transfer.

this I then Generously cut and attached to the motherboard tray

exactly my first mistake has already crept in.
I should have put the tray in advance,  because the tray pushes the window a little higher and now the left side is cut too short.
For Tray I did not shorten.

well again, I had a piece of what I've already tried everything possible.
So penciled

cut with the circular saw

and again transmitted the radius and set holes
much better  ;)

now ground and polished sides

when I wanted the other side to polish then I noticed this, damn grrr

Okay, more Plexi I did not lie around, so order new  :thumbdown:

Over the holidays, it was a bit stressful,  Visiting and often unfocused but I wanted to necessarily move forward :(

The dice front bottom I also misplaced since it still needs the ground purely  :rolleyes:

but not as bad as I already said at the beginning, I'll possibly even collapse later.

so now it fits.
still just as much space that I can forward obstruct an angle with lighting.

I was definitely not idle, incidentally, I have the create clipping masks and convert in DXF files  concerned

Here are just an alibi image :P

The main reason were the side panels.
My original ideas do not fit in.
Well, ultimately, I decided for a kind stucco with which the side parts are covered.
But then I was able to take the blended plate
Saw set on level and off we went

for rounding but I had no frosted glass longer there, even at the next order with at.
So I have to try it a XT sheets of HB-wood mouse radicals Packetes taken.
 Here then I could also equal to something work with the scroll saw,

and now we were off!
All edges bevelled to 45-50 °, it is a mess, there is no vacuum cleaner also helps :whistling:

here on the last picture, all edges are finished either already with 400 grit sandpaper.
The rods I make again as soon as the glass is there, then I'll stick the strips to the side panels

This month I will definitely still the first hardware to buy so that I can finally edit the tray.
So, see you soon ! :D

Here again a little bigger update from me .

First I continued working on the SSD tray.

Here I made a hole for the LED Stripe.



And the mounting holes for the SSD.








For the S-Light i cut the angle and painted it.





After a long think, i painted the Fans.

I hope the color will fit with the color of the mainboard.

Now the mask work again, and again.



Now the Plastic primer, looks like glitter Spray xD




I like it. I already tried two silver tones, but this one i liked more.
The 3 Cooler Master Silencio Fans for the Radiator.






And here a Thermaltake Riing to get a nice Airflow inside the Case.
I disassembled the Fan to paint him without the LED ring. 





Now i continued the work on the Socket.


I cutted out the Cover





Then put holes, cut thread and screwed.




Now it went to the back of the base.

For the 360mm Radiator i cutted out 3 holes



And i set the holes in the side of the case.



Now put all holes for the screws and cut threads



The aluminum profiles i had to adjust.



The final touches i make when it comes to the paint



the same I did with all the other sides .
Here I cutted out the power supply opening.



and here the white plate .
The entire base gets 2x 3mm Plexi . A white plate as a light guide and a black as a cover



Here is the all arroung view




Where the openings are, the white plate is 3mm smaller than the black one.

I’ll polish the edges at the very end. Who knows how many times I’ll break something  :rolleyes:


 I’ll edge the overlap later, but still keep an offset, comparable to what I do around the PSU.



 Here is the cut for the sliding-door’s rail



 And this is how far you can open the door


That’s it for now.

I started working on some other details, but due to lack of materials thigns are on hold for now.

To keep the log clearly laid out, I’m am going to post about these details once I’m done with them.  :P

Hy , Friday finally came my long-awaited package!

Here the first snapshots: :love:

more Details comming soon:D

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #5 on: 19-June-16, 03:46:23 »

yeah yeah I love it :jawdrop::rock:

Here finally the photos of the hardware !

The MSI Z170 Titanium Edition motherboard and 2 MSI GTX 970 GD5T OC graphics Cards.


Hi guys!

Waow, there have been but a lot of pictures amassed but I wanted to spare you the confusion between the applied coats.

So it remains for everyone understandable and comprehensible.

How it already provides in the short teaser
I had to work in well 3-4 weeks in the Arduino matter.
but more on that later Details

Their First time at the door!

I have adhered two small racks to the aluminum profiles which carries the door and is connected to the shifter.

The gear I had to adapt to the motor shaft because the shaft from the engine 28BYJ-48 is oval

Then I have a small aluminum angle cut and the engine mounted thereon

and this then fixed to the inside of the base

Here's a little preview! :rolleyes:

Now the MB tray I could put the spacers

and how should it be otherwise, when screwing the spacer breaks the bolt through
and even 2 times the exact same location.
The first time she went out without damage, the second time I unfortunately had a slightly deeper slit cut them out then turn with a screwdriver.

with the PCI slots on the tray the whole group went further
cut roughly only with the scroll saw

then everything is still just filed and sanded

and somehow I had boredom and got it then also polished;-)

Now the rear wall,
Here I have only times cut the IO Shield

everything fits

and now all PCI ports

only as much as possible with the scroll saw

then everything just grinded

but that was a whole piece of work, especially without broken to make what

and here everything fits

Next we went to the bottom plate.
It is then responsible for the lighting effect of the digital LEDs.
Should only be a bonus LITTLE me but a whole week and 3 Calls has yet tasted.
So do not be surprised if in between suddenly another Plexiglas is processed.
First time I cut 3cm strips, initially straight, and later the same at 45 degrees

which were then adapted to the bottom plate mitred and bonded together

cut the cover plate

Holes set everything sanded, trimmed and satin finish

again separately the 3 parts here

and so the result looks

on the inside I also cut aluminum angles on miter and screwed in the soil

the usual procedure, put holes, lowering, thread cutting
Here it then the LEDs are glued

on it goes with a small lesson in dealing with stainless steel.
As feet 4 (evtl.8) Stainless Ronde be with a piece of steel rod used.
Unfortunately, the steel was so scratched that I had to refresh it again.
Left side to the original state my work right.

the backs I have accordingly rounded and polished with 240 touches

then cut the rod and set the holes.
Here is still a thread cut around the feet equal from top to screw with together with the base plate

Now I have made a small aperture for the front fan!
See for yourself!
Scroll saw, filing grinding and satin finishing

One small thing but would still I think that's enough for now.
Is there then the next time! :d

Hey guys!

Middle of last week, the last parts arrived for water cooling.
Unfortunately, I am not to photograph unpack and got away, but here's a little look in the package!

And yesterday was one more hammer package.

Thank you very much

let's see what is beautiful in it was!

I find the Sleev´s and Comb´s MEEEEEEGAA!
This is a fun, I hope have not too much for me made but at least I do not annoy me with the Para Cords . :P

Now I show you yet what Conditions holder I will now use.
The first prototype will fit in the size not quite so I built new.
I cut me a few strips of a Plexiglas tube.

coarsely being ground

then diagonally cut from 3 cm to 1 cm and satin finish

the thread set and cut the holder of an acrylic rod


Now I had to grind to the diameter of the tube feet

and because I was once again after I have the whole foot polished yet, satin finishing the cutting edges would have been possible.
So the whole thing looks from!

This is perfectly fit the concept and reflect the theme of glass again super.

many greetings CapTen!

PS: because it was something!
Thus, the compensating reservoir does not get scratched come in the Allen screws silicone plugs.
But I've cut several cartridges peaks and this filled with silicone.
They were then cured after 2 weeks well that you can pull out the silicone at a time.
I will then match cut to size to Allen.

Hi guys!

Sorry I'm already so late, it has done so a lot but everything i can not post this time.
So I'll start with the most beautiful.
Last week I ordered the CPU and thus could finally assemble all water cooler.

The Alibi Photo! ;-)

and now the water cooler

After I finally received the last parts of EK, I could set the bracket for the radiator.
Is to see the images badly but I have behind the 3 fan openings set again 2 angles which carry the Radiator.





then I have set all the necessary holes in the MB-tray

Here I have the ultrasonic sensor mounted, did not think that I can do that right away but it fits perfectly.
How do I fix or him from below fasten I do not know. The holes at the edge of the sensor are less than one Millimeter.

from the front I had to cut out  a little more so that I can shove the sensor from the bottom.

And here still equal to a small test video to

More updates coming soon, I have still a lot  :thumbsup:

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #6 on: 19-June-16, 03:53:29 »

thx XD

So now equal to the next update.
At every turn preceded's :D

For the cable entry in Mainboardtray I made 2 cover for the 24 pin cable.
The first I forgot to photograph completely, so the photos are somewhat mixed.

then over Easter we went to the SLI-bridge and an IO Cover.
I once got a bit ALU folded and then came to this result

I found a little boring so I've glued a 2mm strip

canted The IO cover first after a rough sketch

unfortunately it was with GPU backplate but too tight so I had to saw off the lower portion

painted in silver, then a little foil and a few stickers

Here are 2 cover on the GPUs are screwed so that the weight is not completely seated on the Plexiglas

all holes set thread cutting and trying on

I then painted along with the PCI slot brackets.
The slot covers I have previously still straightened

even if you do not see but that had to be xD

After I had installed recently by the PSU I noticed that the angle of blocking the whole view so I cut the angle in the range of sliding door with a Flex

like it ;-)

Then I once casually a bending mold for the radius I Need manufactured,

From 4 feet were. 6
The bottom plate hung but centrally through quite a bit.
Even if it is bolted to the base later, I want to play it safe

The whole week I was busy putting large part with holes.
Here the implementation behind the motherboard-tray in the base

from there, we go into the base plate and then back out to the PSU.
So there was only time to draw a lot and graining ago

because I could not work with the drill press here I drilled the M4 holes with M3

and then with M4, everything slightly lowered and grinded

here would be even a few different views
from the rear

on top of the PSU which is already painted here (more photos of them come ;-)

under the PSU I have put into the base plate nor a fan opening so that the airflow in the base is also reasonably available

that's it again for now. Up soon:D


I was last week, unfortunately, every day for my individual Cabelcombs and backplates stickers go.
Parallel comes shortly a new project added which cost me too much time.

As I said recently, I had adapted and completed some things already in color, but I have you do not even shown.
Here times an image of the PSU, the CM Silencio, the Thermaltake Riing, EK radiator Conditions holders, and two logos from 3mm Plexiglas are that found on the front of the case, above and below the Riing their place.

Some of the routes have been worth last week and I could make the backplates completed.

and here the short instruction on how I manage that.
First I had to create a vector file to let me cut a foil.

then I cut two satin Plexiglas plates and set the holes

When the Foil was finally finished I was allowed only once weeding everything

and could then glue the transfer film on it, the whole then positioned on the backplates and mounted on the GPUs.

From the front of the base I cut the hole for the keypad and set the grommet behind

From Midplate I started to put the pipe penetrations and PCIe cable holes
Are me really, really well done I think.



For feedthroughs I used a cone drill

My IO cover I built again yesterday.
I have not considered the one considers the case of most of the top, because then you can see the first THIS XD

So I went again from the beginning and was also equal to make a few changes.
a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut and folded

smoothed with Alu Kit

here's the comparison to the last!
A little wider but much Space'iger  :D

then some other things:
The Small 2mm PCI slot bracket was slightly too thick so I've exchanged with a 1mm steel cover

The Monsoon Bending Kit you can not really use it for 16er tubes, there are large footprints on the inside of the tubes because the tubes Monsoon only 15.9mm in size.
This a millimeter makes really a lot. The bent tube acts otherwise almost angular.
So I next to my larger form (8cm radius) 2 small built me with 2.5cm radius
be repeatedly painted

So more updates soon

Hi guys!

So "Nanoxia investigated the Super Modder" is over and I can concentrate fully on Lightglass again.
After some problems with the customs duty I could pick last week even the memory.

So a huge thank you to

I can not decide which photos are best, so here's all me, unfortunately. ;-)

this then came another SSD new Avexir S100 Series

Since I have been waiting for a while on this package, I had prepared for it, the sliding door.
As patterns I have a print out a label and logo cut with the scroll saw, all cut edges just filed and satin.
Behind then come white Plexiglass so the Avexir Logo completely illuminated.

So, more updates coming soon  :)

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #7 on: 19-June-16, 04:02:51 »

Love modding community!

We are approaching the last update´s.
Since the completion date ever closer moves I have somewhat neglected the worklogs, sorry.

So I will summarize again the whole structure of the Arduino.
The following components are installed, starting from the top left, so how to write.

Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48
Driver ULN2003
Acoustic sensor HC SR04
90db buzzer
Arduino Nano
infrared receiver
capacitor 1000 microfarad
Resistances 470 Ohm
div. Pins Connectors
Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B

What is it doing?
-The Engine opens and closes the door in the base.
Can be optional by the remote control or the keypad open close.
LEDs in the base plate signal Orangenes light signal (flashing)

-The Acoustic sensor covers the entire window and generates an alarm as soon as the window is touched.
LEDs in the bottom panel lights red, buzzer sounds

-The PC will be on the keypad start and reseten

- Via the keypad and the remote control can be programmed to start different light games

The Arduino is thus fully occupied. ;-)
In February I program a little crash course in Arduino occupied and now use the following sketch, which I have partly written himself or adapted to my needs.


Code: [Select]
#include "Stepper.h"
#include "Keypad.h"
#include "IRremote.h"
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#ifdef __AVR__
#include <avr/power.h>
#include "FastLED.h"
/*----- Variables, Pins -----*/
#define DATA_PIN    A4
#define LED_TYPE    WS2812B
#define NUM_LEDS    120
#define BRIGHTNESS          250
#define FRAMES_PER_SECOND  120
#define PIN A6 //power
#define PIN A7 //reset
#define PIN A4 //RGBs
#define STEPS  32   // Number of steps per revolution of Internal shaft
int  Steps2Take;  // 2048 = 1 Revolution
int receiver = A5; // Signal Pin of IR receiver to Arduino Digital Pin 12
int trigPin = 10;
int echoPin = 11;
int buzzer = 12;
int power = A6;
int reset = A7;
/*-----( Declare objects )-----*/
// Setup of proper sequencing for Motor Driver Pins
// In1, In2, In3, In4 in the sequence 1-3-2-4
Stepper small_stepper(STEPS, A0, A2, A1, A3);
IRrecv irrecv(receiver);    // create instance of 'irrecv'
decode_results results;     // create instance of 'decode_results'
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(120, A4, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
//Deklarationen Keypad
const byte numRows = 4; //number of rows on the keypad
const byte numCols = 4; //number of columns on the keypad
//keymap defines the key pressed according to the row and columns just as appears on the keypad
char keymap[numRows][numCols] =
  {'1', '2', '3', 'A'},
  {'4', '5', '6', 'B'},
  {'7', '8', '9', 'C'},
  {'*', '0', '#', 'D'}
//Hier die richtigen Pins eintragen!!! Anschlussgrafik gibt es z.B. hier
byte rowPins[numRows] = {9, 8, 7, 6};
byte colPins[numCols] = {5, 4, 3, 2};
//initializes an instance of the Keypad class
Keypad myKeypad = Keypad(makeKeymap(keymap), rowPins, colPins, numRows, numCols);

void setup()
  irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the receiver
  pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);
  pinMode(buzzer, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(power, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(reset, OUTPUT);
  // tell FastLED about the LED strip configuration
  FastLED.addLeds<LED_TYPE, DATA_PIN, COLOR_ORDER>(leds, NUM_LEDS).setCorrection(TypicalLEDStrip);
  // set master brightness control
  strip.begin();; // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
// List of patterns to cycle through.  Each is defined as a separate function below.
typedef void (*SimplePatternList[])();
SimplePatternList gPatterns = { sinelon,};
uint8_t gCurrentPatternNumber = 0; // Index number of which pattern is current
uint8_t gHue = 0; // rotating "base color" used by many of the patterns ,0white,250red,100green,150blue

void loop()
  char keypressed = myKeypad.getKey(); //Tastedruck am Keypad erfassen
  if (keypressed == 'A')
  if (keypressed == 'B')
  if (keypressed == '1')
    colorWipe(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 30); // White
  if (keypressed == '*')
    digitalWrite(power, HIGH );
  digitalWrite(power, LOW );
  if (keypressed == '#')
    digitalWrite(reset, HIGH );
  digitalWrite(reset, LOW );

  if (irrecv.decode(&results)) {
    if (results.value == 16761405) // forward pressed
    if (results.value == 16712445) // backwards pressed
    if (results.value == 16738455) // taste 0
      colorWipe(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 30); // White
    if (results.value == 16724175) // taste 1
      colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 30); // Green
    if (results.value == 16718055)//taste 2
      theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 1000); // White
    if (results.value == 16743045) //taste 3
      colorWipe(strip.Color( 255, 100, 0), 30); // Orange
    if (results.value == 16716015)//taste 4
      colorWipe(strip.Color( 255, 0, 0), 30); // red
    if (results.value == 16726215)//taste 5
      theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 500); // Green
    if (results.value == 16734885)//taste 6
      theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 1000); // Blue

    if (results.value == 16728765)//taste 7
      colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 30); // blue

    if (results.value == 16730805)//taste 8
      theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 100); // Red

    if (results.value == 16732845)//taste 9
      theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 100, 0), 1000); // Orange

    if (results.value == 16769055)//taste EQ

    if (results.value == 16748655)//taste vol +

    if (results.value == 16754775)//taste vol -

    if (results.value == 16753245)//taste Power
      // Call the current pattern function once, updating the 'leds' array
    {  gPatterns[gCurrentPatternNumber]();
    // send the 'leds' array out to the actual LED strip;
    // insert a delay to keep the framerate modest
    FastLED.delay(1000 / FRAMES_PER_SECOND);
    if (results.value == 16736925)//taste Mode
    if (results.value == 16769565)//taste Mute
    if (results.value == 16720605)//taste Pause
    if (results.value == 16750695)//taste gehe zurück
    if (results.value == 16756815)//taste U/SD
  if (millis() % 10 == 0)
  { long duration, distance;
    digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
    duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
    distance = (duration / 2) / 29.1;
    if (distance < 40) {
      digitalWrite(buzzer, HIGH );
      theaterChase1(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 100); // Red;
    else {
      digitalWrite(buzzer, LOW );
    if (distance > 200) {
      Serial.println("Out of range");
    if (distance < 0) {
      Serial.println("Out of Range");

/* --end main loop -- */
void motorLaufen(int mSteps) {
  theaterChase(strip.Color(255, 100, 0), 1000); // Orange
  Steps2Take  =  mSteps;  // Rotate CCW
  irrecv.resume(); // receive the next value;
void MotorAus ()
  digitalWrite(A0, LOW);
  digitalWrite(A1, LOW);
  digitalWrite(A2, LOW);
  digitalWrite(A3, LOW);
// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
  for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
    strip.setPixelColor(i, c);;
//Theatre-style crawling lights.
void theaterChase(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
  for (int j = 0; j < 10; j++) { //do 10 cycles of chasing
    for (int q = 0; q < 2; q++) {
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, c);  //turn every third pixel on
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
//Theatre-style crawling lights.
void theaterChase1(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
  for (int j = 0; j < 2; j++) { //do 10 cycles of chasing
    for (int q = 0; q < 2; q++) {
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, c);  //turn every third pixel on
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 2) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
void rainbow(uint8_t wait) {
  uint16_t i, j;

  for (j = 0; j < 256; j++) {
    for (i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
      strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel((i + j) & 255));
// Slightly different, this makes the rainbow equally distributed throughout
void rainbowCycle(uint8_t wait) {
  uint16_t i, j;
  for (j = 0; j < 256 * 5; j++) { // 5 cycles of all colors on wheel
    for (i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
      strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel(((i * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
//Theatre-style crawling lights with rainbow effect
void theaterChaseRainbow(uint8_t wait) {
  for (int j = 0; j < 256; j++) {   // cycle all 256 colors in the wheel
    for (int q = 0; q < 3; q++) {
      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 3) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, Wheel( (i + j) % 255)); //turn every third pixel on


      for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i = i + 3) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i + q, 0);      //turn every third pixel off
// Input a value 0 to 255 to get a color value.
// The colours are a transition r - g - b - back to r.
uint32_t Wheel(byte WheelPos) {
  WheelPos = 255 - WheelPos;
  if (WheelPos < 85) {
    return strip.Color(255 - WheelPos * 3, 0, WheelPos * 3);
  if (WheelPos < 170) {
    WheelPos -= 85;
    return strip.Color(0, WheelPos * 3, 255 - WheelPos * 3);
  WheelPos -= 170;
  return strip.Color(WheelPos * 3, 255 - WheelPos * 3, 0);
void sinelon()
  // a colored dot sweeping back and forth, with fading trails
  fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 20);
  int pos = beatsin16(8, 0, NUM_LEDS); //speed,start-stop,
  leds[pos] += CHSV( gHue, 0, 192); // gHue,Multicolor 0=whit 255=rainbow fade ,Bightness

In this arrangement, I then soldered everything

As a mounting a small glass box cut and glued

and it screwed the Arduino

Now I have the Avexir Raiden still match the color, the small caps were painted in tone

and sides covered with foil, a paint was here too risky because of color flake or run behind

and they now look

other day I finally found a suitable Bending Kit with which I was satisfied so I could put the last pipe penetrations and end the piping

was again a lot of fun :D

and so I had imagined the whole

In the base I have tried a lot, unfortunately I forgot the picture from the final state to shoot, now everything is disassembled again.
The chrome angle be exchanged for black, next week should be there

The motherboard tray is illuminated from above, unfortunately I found no U-profile in the proposed material thickness, so I had to saw off the little tray

The U-profile even liked it so angular not so I have it adapted to the case shape and the front slightly rounded

The exhaust air under the PSU I had already cut but not considered that the angles from the base this still obscure, so I had here even adjust something

Now I started to put all the necessary holes for the Arduino and the pump

Here the buzzer behind the PSU

and the keypad

for the Acoustic sensor still set the holes for the adjustment, M1, screw and taps are on the way

determines only the position of the SSD with the illuminated Tron and set the holes

The entire motherboard tray will be screwed to the base

Now it went last week to the painting, everything cleaned only once sanded and painted with aluminum primer

now even more layers follow White with intermediate sanding and div Filling work

and ready

the pump bottom was painted in silver

I now began to talk slowly with the assembling of, here a look under the PSU

But there were other problems,
As I have planned a special cable laying, I try to find someone already since 3 months of my cable Combs in Gosu style milled but no company is a vector file to convert to a 4mm Large Hole able.
At my cousin the oil pump its CNC is broken, so I had only one choice, I was last weekend 15h even stand at the CNC and oiling the cutters in 5min clock.

Here times the location (a dream)

and so then it started

it was the boring, 12 h later

at home arrived from Munich back in Pforzheim, I was able to everything deburring by hand and clean.
I fetched from the street me some gravel. then the Combs shaken of a while to just not having to grind the inside

However, the peaks were in clover leaf so acute that I had it all yet deburring by hand

from the outside, I have everything sanded with 600 paper

and everything still manually cleaned with cleaner and then with alcohol

That's bad, that's only half of Combs that I need but I would not make it this weekend, only 3h sleep and the Case I also wanted to work on.
The whole deburring and clean took me all Sunday and the Gosumodz Aliance Combs still look better: P.

In any case I can finally begin the connection wiring and just have all plexiglass edge polishing or burnishing.
We have on Monday again a holiday, I think by then I will make good progress. :D

thx guys  thx
next update :rock:


Go on.
The missing black angle and the coolant has arrived.

Thank you so on Nanoxia !

Then we go's, last week I had to paint again the socket because I forgot a hole for the Sata cable .
Was unfortunately otherwise.
The weekend incl. Monday I was now fully engaged embarrassed with the electrical system and the cable.
So first I have optimized cable management of the Cooler Master Silencio and from Riing. All cables cut and soldered an adapter extension cord and sleeved.

then the WS2812B LEDs were glued to the angle in the bottom plate, and soldered wired.

Now it came to the cables for Arduino run and the corresponding components

Gradually, therefore everything is finally installed.

Here, the fan grill with Gosumodz washer and the buzzer behind the PSU

the first cable on Arduino

currently it looks quite empty from the bottom but that will come

to avoid unnecessary cables and adapters in the ground I built distribution stations for Molex and fan.

the solder points still ground because I have unfortunately only one centimeter square down there

and even a tape over it
That way, once 6x 12V and 5V for the Arduino and the power supply

The Molex distributor of the way, then depends directly on the power supply

I need the Arduino and their components with 2 different power sources feed since the ultrasonic sensor (or another part) otherwise causes a feedback
and the entire alarm system unable to work as they should, or permanently starts.

In the base were put out of top analog RGBW LEDs which then illuminate the white Plexiglas and the interior.

so gradually it is taking shape

Now I put the cable and sleeve for the mainboard supply

since the crimping tool is not worth much I had to again solder all pins

and then slide into the sleevs

Now I have only times the pinout of the Cooler Master listed cord and plug away because you can not buy the 10Pin and 18pin.

and so it looks like

in the ground no place for sleevs remains why look down just short out be sleeved.
But since they are quite rigid I from bottom still Combs glued through which the cables can be laid at right angles.

These Combs I recently sawed from a faulty milling. Since the router is broken.
The I could now make good use for these purposes.

here's the difference

Slowly I should have thought of everything in the base, so I work my way slowly upward.

Now it was only clean the Plexiglas and where necessary edge polish satin finishing or.

Unfortunately, I had eventually ruined me with a dirty drill or screw the threaded and could also clean the threads




the cable for the SSD still drawn

I want to put the 4 PCIe cables directly from the GPUs in the PSU, I now unfortunately become aware that I have released there only 2 slots.
I could arrange that I get a Cooler Master V850 or the like. Unfortunately, until next week, but that's why I'm still going to continue to move the Main board cable.

The V750 that I have now left I will soon be giving away on Facebook, I think when reaching the next favorite brand.
The finish is excellent and keeps bomb. That would be unique Made by CapTen: D

The second charge cable Combs are also arrived yesterday from my cousin that I have now again deburring and clean: sad:

Next update coming ..... :P

Hi everyone!

My last update, the project is ready but the Finalpics I'll do tomorrow.
Here now only times all work I've done the last few weeks.

Sorry that took me so long posted anything but I was really afraid not to be ready in time.
So I try to be brief, there are still quite a lot of photos and more than half I have already deleted. : D
If any ambiguities are just ask okay?

Under the SSD Tron I have placed a small RGB Strip, connected to the LEDs in the base.

then came from my cousin the second charge cable Combs.
Again, the same program as the last time, all the cut / break, deburring, sanding and clean.

then it went to the sleeving on.
Times as info that cable velvet Sleeve'm not getting through Combs through why I prefer all sleevs first and then push the cable through. This is very good because the PLX sleevs are quite rigid.
First, the 8 and 4 pin ATX cable

and then the 24 pin cable, do not forget the small cover which I built for carrying

now came the worst, all the cables together.
For this I have number to each cable and after many corrections and try with hot glue so I fixed the second base plate at all it get

Unfortunately, nothing helped, I had to cut the lower base plate, due to a half centimeter

good for the entire bottom plate I have another 4 holes set as the 2mm aluminum but was not as robust as expected

Then I put all power and reset cable

and last but not least the PCIe cable, unfortunately not quite the way I wanted but I think that can be so by go XD

The entire cable management cost me a total of 3 weeks now. Daily 6h after work and on weekends and holidays also determined 12 hours a day. And I thought I do it on a weekend finished XD.
Now it was time to polish all edges:
just like the dice I have all the edges with a sword Cutta peeled and then ground from 320 to 800 grit sandpaper. After that two polishing pastes and finally with pure polish.

I had tried to talk to a small piece to see how far fits the design and have this now transferred to the sliding door and rear wall for this to bend then.

Now cut

and then bent


the small pieces for back ready polished and then glued together

With the sidewalls exactly the same, all edges polished

the Avexir neckline satin finish.
I hope you can imagine how long it takes all this take?

Okay, as expected, there was the cable laid course but a damage to the paint, mainly the outer edge.
So I had a good piece again completely wrap in foil to be painted around the defects in.
With a paintbrush unfortunately dissolving the color and pushes only the paint down again and a white pen does not have the same color as my paint.

Who's always there?  :P

Then came the worst part: remove the foil!
Now I had to with the utmost care all behind moving sanding dust and the polishing paste to remove without scratching the Plexiglas. The glossy black is there really sensitive.

so now that all plates were cleaned, I also stick to one another

Next we went to the upper side parts

I had last year already two logos cut from 3mm Plexiglas and polished.
This I have now glued to the side wall

only times exactly aligned the logos and then taken up with tape so that they can no longer from slipping

Then measured the positions on the front and set with tape guide lines

then made the adhesive on the logos and adhered to the front

and now again: how I start already said, I have the dice all have slightly rearranged so they do not look so boring cubes.
How do you like that ? :crazy:

have been doing mostly oriented at me 15 °

well as the sleeves are so rigid I ever had to come up with the 24Pin ATX cable behind the tray little problems around the corner, so I did it briefly bent me a small retainer.
But this I wanted to make so and so to put a decal of the sponsor there. It fulfills the same a double sense;-)

This I then glued back on the tray.
The cable I have so long fixed with an aluminum bracket for the glue to dry.

on Friday I thought that Silencio see behind two 3mm Plexiglas and 2mm aluminum frame from something boring, so I have the frame summarily cut off so that further extend the rotor blades from the Case

so without damage was also not, so I concerned shall points again painted.

the small curved pieces for the back I attached with a spacer with the screws Case
No I would not flush, the distance is chosen deliberately because it would have the gap either way perceived and had a bond the screws obscured

last week, I have created the missing decals and was able to pick up on the weekend me.
I had weeded again everything yourself.
This comes on the rear window completely down

take the Avexir lettering, 1.6 mm character height I had normal Stickers
and some other things that can be seen later on the Finalpics;-)

the lighting of the hardware itself was somehow not quite as I expected, so I decided to TE-block from the top with a small strip to illuminate thus also equal to the GPU backplates are illuminated with.
So even a small angle cut, primed and painted

the current then immediately swiped from the top S-Light, the cable is thus exactly behind the ATX connectors and is not visible

Now It's something offtopic further.
For photo shoot I wanted something special but a suitable museum I did not to me and a jewelry shop / jeweler as a painter I need to ask not even.
So I got short hand out my bedroom wall redesigned.
wallpaper removed

completely plastering, primed and painted two times white

then centrally glued a snakeskin wallpaper

fits to or vice versa, I have this weekend even built me a stand for the case and the keyboard, mouse.
The stand for the Case is a transport box which I can buckle with foil as on a Euro pallet, the case then.
First the hardware store all materials Bought, the wallpaper I had ordered last week on the Internet

from old remnants I cut a few strips for the bottom

then glued together and to the ground

Angle cut and primed

the whole box glued to each other and once primed

angel paint in silver

The stand for the keyboard exactly tailored and everything glued to each other

mounted on the box still Tension Latches

and then also primed and painted

corresponding areas of the object also painted

and then glued to finish off the wallpaper and then the angle on the edge

Okay "thats it".
System I have filled yesterday and leaktest made everything alright.
Tomorrow I will make the final pics and will then latest day after tomorrow post! :-)

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #8 on: 19-June-16, 05:00:18 »

So now we go!

I made a rough selection of all images but because I have nothing to hide and so a lot of work in this project lies,
gets her now photos from all possible perspectives accurately as various lighting.
I hope I did not forget any details.  :D

"Light Glass" deactivated by day

"Light Glass" is switched by night

in blue

in white

"Light Glass" by night with different lighting effects

Alarm mode(red LED)

while the door opens (orange LED)

and a few rainbow effects

Okay, it was nice!
I'll tinker just a video for the whole hope to get that in 2 weeks out.
So see you soon! :thumbsup:

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #9 on: 22-June-16, 12:08:00 »

Hi !
Thank you so much!

I have recorded times all costs and working hours.
working hours: ca. 1400hours
total cost: 2050,37Euro without sponsorship

Now I finally have finished a little video.
I have so much footage that I did not get everything under, I think there still is a Video


Bon Jovi

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #10 on: 22-November-16, 01:47:53 »

Dude !!!

Sorry my english.
This is the :censored: job I've seen.
Without words, simply masterpiece your mod
Congratulations, you are the man.

perfect dude, perfect


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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #11 on: 01-December-16, 04:50:10 »

Amazing build. Love the effort and time commitment. Worth the 1/2 hour scroll 😁

capten-corkTopic starter

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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #12 on: 08-December-16, 11:13:11 »

THX bro thx :agrees:


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Re: 【MSI PRO MOD – S4】"Light Glass"
« Reply #13 on: 04-February-17, 05:37:29 »

Great Work!
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