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Author Topic: Powersupplies!  (Read 60438 times)

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Goodguy

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Powersupplies!
« on: 30-July-02, 04:52:57 »

Article: Powersupplies!
Hi dude's and dudettes(revision 1.0)

Let's talk about power supplies, as this is getting to be a really big problem.

Start with this:

Link to AMD approved powersupplies

Note that this guide was written BEFORE the release of Barton core based processors!!!! Thus the need for HIGHER amperage output of the 12V rail from a power supply. Minimum should be 18 or 20A to ensure proper current feed for your power hungry devices.

Ok, here we start!:

Many people think that the wattage on a powersupply is the same on every powersupply. Well this is NOT the case...

Most cheap powersupplies have a label on them that just fits the needs of the company that sells them. Power supplies have peak and continuous power and most cheap brand power supplies (PSU for short) print Peak power ratings if they print anything at all...

The more decent PSU labels show Continuous power ratings.

In short, Cheaper PSU's rated for 300W does NOT mean that it is usable 300W.

As most systems today need a lot of power, you best try another first if you have problems, especialy if you think or determine that you have a cheap one.



In my system I use a 250W PSU or AOpen (AMD approved upto AMD XP1800+) and it can deliver about 16A at 3.3V and 25A at 5.5V, combined power about 150W for 3.3 + 5V.
Well you might start to laugh about this little baby, but it does deliver way more then most 300W PSU (sometimes even rated higher) cheap ones.
My favorite PSU is Powerman 300W it can deliver 28A 3.3V, 30A 5V and the combined power is 200W for 3.3+5V (model number FSP300-60BTV(PF)) and it's big enough to handle the most heavy systems today.
But they are talking continue power, not peak power.
A good example of this are speakers, they are sold today with powers upto 1000Watts and more, when the can't even deliver 1/10th of it (or less).

(Note from editor: He makes no reference to the 12v rail in this paragraph which has become a bigger issue recently with the release of the newer processors on the market. The mfg's of PSU's have released supplies on the market prior to really knowing what the power consumption would be of the new processors and thus some fall way short of being capable in a good rig. This isn't even to mention that we've now thrown the Graphical Processing Unit (GPU) into the 12V fray. So now you have to plug in your video card directly to the PSU and thus you have a higher current draw again so upping that 12v current rating has become a reality. Bonz)

The problems with power supplies that don't provide enough amperage can range from:

Not starting.
Crashes in the BIOS.
Bought a new videocard and it doesn't run anymore.
High pitch noises.
Crashing randomly.
OS not installing.
Crashing when playing games.
CPU FSB won't run at 133MHz.
Drivers not installing.

You name it...the system is trying to feed power to all of the components at once and it just doesn't have it to give so it goes into a shutdown mode to keep it from catching on fire. It's a failsafe that's built into any GOOD PSU manufacturers' product.

Alway's make sure you have enough juice to power your system. An AMD system needs enough power, 220W combined and 216W for the 12V rail, and most older 300W and prior aren't capable of reaching these values. So alway's make sure you have an AMD approved PSU AND make sure it's approved for your CPU type or above....

You can calculate this on your own using Power=Voltage X Current.

You can also use this as a basis for determining what PSU specs to use and it's a bit more fun too! This way is also a bit misleading in that a lot of motherboards are using more integrated components causing them to draw higher power than is listed on this page. I would say 25W is way lower than should be for todays motherboards. So I would add in those components anyway to get a more realistic idea of the power draw. A good example would be to add in the Soundblaster in place of onboard sound which they don't list but it still draws power from the MB. And yes in some cases you'll come up with a way higher number sometimes than you should.

http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/


For modern CPU's (XP-1800TBred and up) and motherboards the following should be checked:

3.3V 24A or above
5V 30A or above
12V 18A or above

Combined 3.3+5V somewhere around 200W
Test another PSU with a friend or your dealer, see what happens.
Cheap 350W PSU's don't cope well with modern systems, this doesn't mean they fail in all situations, just that they might fail.
The problem with PSU's is that it might look like the problem and not be but the only way to find that out is by replacing it and testing. This can be true in unison with a memory issue. Example: You replace the PSU and the memory is still causing the problem. You change back to the old PSU insert new memory and still fail. Two separate issues but the same result overall for both failures. This is a real hairpuller situation, but it does happen.

Another update!
Many new motherboards sound an alarm when they're underpowered. Sometimes it sounds like a siren.

Another note to think about is that Intel based rigs usually don't require the same high output as AMD rigs but sometimes they do so keep that in mind for the Intel users out there.

Written by Bas
Edited by Bonz 2-16-2004






So now you know what to look for when asked, by a user in the forum, what your specs are for your PSU.

Added by Wonkanoby

Another good site with tons of info on many issues and is presented well:

Short Media

Input provided by Rick_G
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endy76

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« Reply #1 on: 04-April-03, 20:27:07 »

it means that
+3.3V 28A
+5V 25A
+12V 12A
and
+5V N +3,3V TOTAL O/P 188W

is not enough for AthlonXP 2000+ ?
Is this a reason that my PC do no start and I hear a sound like fire horn ?

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twohype

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« Reply #2 on: 11-April-03, 22:07:26 »
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  • Thanks for da lesson I needed it
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    billiam316

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    « Reply #3 on: 10-May-03, 04:57:26 »

    The importance of clean power is so overlooked today. 90% of all the issues I encounter with people are fixed with a good power supply and a UPS. People are willing to spend $400+ on a videocard but don't want to spend more than $20-$40 on a PSU. Then they wonder why there system is so unstable. You get what you pay for!!! This is definently not the area to skimp on. Clean power is good power.
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    teddyu

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    « Reply #4 on: 07-June-03, 20:04:34 »

    hi there, built a system recently, everything works fine apart from........MY SYSTEM WON'T SHUT DOWN!!!

    say i click on the start button in windows(XP), then click on "shut down", then it says window is saving users settings and shutting down, when the screen goes blank and black normally it means all set and lights out, well in my case the system cuts off power(which is good)for 2 seconds(which is not good) then restart again!! i tried to use the power on/off button in DOS but still wont make any difference, power seems to be cut for 2 seconds and then restarts again.

    i am using a KT4V-L mobo (with standard BIOS, hasnt been updated yet) with the following spec:
    AMD XP2000
    ATI Radeon 9000pro 128mb DDR
    a unbranded 4ch sound card(disabled as using on/board sound)
    a intel pci v.92 56k modem
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    1.44 FDD
    can anyone help please???

    TED
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #5 on: 07-June-03, 20:12:22 »
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  • try disabling wake on lan and any other wake on you find in the bios
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    « Reply #6 on: 04-July-03, 13:39:18 »
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  • Helpful post dude  :D
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    JV

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    « Reply #7 on: 13-August-03, 06:54:43 »

    I'm having some booting problems (sometimes, especially when exiting CMOS I get beeps and d-bracket hangs on "Memory Detection Test"). Using lower FSB and disconnecting the 12V connector helped a little.

    I'm also getting some noise from the optical output and I think it could be caused by too weak signal. (Removing modem and replacing graphics card helped on this, but not completely)

    Do you think I need a more powerful PSU for my system? My current specs are:

    +5V - 35A
    +12V - 18A
    +3.3V - 28A
    -5V - 0.5A
    -12V - 1.0A
    +5V SB - 2.0A

    +5V, +12V and +3.3V max load 360W
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #8 on: 13-August-03, 07:03:46 »
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  • whats the combined 3.3 and 5 v over 200 watts?

    make and model might mean some thing as well
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    « Reply #9 on: 13-August-03, 12:02:37 »

    It's Antec TruePower (True 380 SP) supplied with the Sonata case. It has "dedicated output circuitry for each voltage output" so the combined power of 3.3V and 5V shouldn't be a problem.
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #10 on: 13-August-03, 12:34:57 »
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  • sounds more like its fussy ram compatability to me
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    Power Supplies: Allowed Voltage Ranges
    « Reply #11 on: 30-August-03, 23:50:36 »
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  • I just checked my V2.2 Bios for my GNB MAX-FISR, and under the section on PSU voltages, what I found is something like:
    +12.03V
    + 5.02V
    -12.33V
    -5.31

    How does one ascertain the voltage specs for the MB?  I presume the slightly high voltages on the negative rails are not a big deal, but at some point these relatively high voltages could be an issue. And I'd like to know at what point I should be concerned.  Next time I open the box, I will tweak the voltages more toward their -5.00 and -12.00 targets. I presume I can easily find the potentiometer screw for this?  Any comments? Thx.

    Scott

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    « Reply #12 on: 31-August-03, 01:55:28 »
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  • do not mess around inside a psu ,and they are allowed plus /minus 5 percent,and 10 percent as far as 12v goes

    however a good psu will be within 3 percent

    in reallity bar latest antec there is nothing you can adjust,and quite often the monitoring not accurate any way

    my antecs allways read under ,but a volt meter confirms its spot on
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    Kingfisher

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    Good or bad power supply
    « Reply #13 on: 14-September-03, 17:28:38 »

    Hi,

    Is the Antec TruePower (True 380 SP) a good power supply because I just got one of this.

    Thank you for your attention.
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    paulhaskew

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    « Reply #14 on: 08-November-03, 19:08:36 »

    how about this little bugger...

    http://images2.newegg.com/productimage/11-124-041-08.JPG

    its what i have...
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #15 on: 08-November-03, 23:24:22 »
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  • pretty stupid question without the signature to show what its supposed to power

    older low end set up fine

    newer board and cpu and vga card forget it with only 12a at 12v
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    « Reply #16 on: 12-November-03, 17:10:20 »

    updated my sig... :)
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #17 on: 12-November-03, 17:59:32 »
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  • it might just be enough
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    bejon2000

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    « Reply #18 on: 20-November-03, 18:19:21 »

    something puzzles me.
    i suppose most psu-makers know for what purpose their psu will be used for and
    i also suppose they know what power the differant pc-components needs.

    why does the 3,3/5/12v a-numbers differ from a brand to another - do they see things differantly.
    for example is a high 12v number more important then the 5v and so on.

    some examples to clarify the question;
    Antec 480w - spec. 3,3v=30a / 5v=38a / 12v= 22a
    Enermax 431w - spec. 3,3v=38a / 5v=44a / 12v=20a
    PCPower 510w - spec. 3,3v=30a / 5v=40a / 12v= 34a

    i am not really talking about good or bad psu here, more trying to find out if there any reason to look for "special good"combination of watts and 3,3+5.12v and if its possible to speculate which v- will be more used/demading with the upcoming pc components next year.

    thanks..........
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    « Reply #19 on: 20-November-03, 18:36:59 »
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  • older amd boards feed the cpu of the 5v and 3.3v rail

    newer are all coming of the 12v


    older gf 4600 also feed of 3.3 and 5 v

    newer cards all feed of the 12v

    so now the 12v rails the most important and i think thats likley to stay

    thats an older enermax spec you quoted,the new ones

    35a 35a and 33a and reflects what i just said

    im sure if antec redesign there 12v amps will shoot up as well
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    « Reply #20 on: 21-November-03, 05:42:39 »

    thanks wonkanoby,
    i got my example figures from this test http://www.amdmb.com/article-display.php?ArticleID=270&PageID=6
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    hulkyh

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    « Reply #21 on: 11-December-03, 03:45:36 »

    +3.3v = 20A
    +5v = 35A
    +12v = 17A


    maybe is the 3.3v a bit low. What problems could cause that?

    with K7N2-Delta-ILSR and 2600boxed
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    allied 350 versus fortron 400pfn
    « Reply #22 on: 23-December-03, 12:26:58 »
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  • :wall: o_0 :shocking:
     :nono:
    i just replaced my allied/deer 350
    for a 400 fortron pfn

    i will post my new voltages asap

    looked last night
    the allied was always over the number ie 5or 12

    some of the fortrons numbers are under  ie 4.8

    what is the ideal range numberwise  for example +12 within  11.50-12.50

    i also noticed the numbers on fortron werent fluctuating nearly as much
     :noidea: :yes: :rolleyes:
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    « Reply #23 on: 24-December-03, 01:36:26 »
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  • 3.3 and 5 v should stay within plus or minus 5 percent,a good psu will manage 3 percent

    12 v is allowed 10 percent ,again a good one will stay within 5 percent
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    merry xmass
    « Reply #24 on: 24-December-03, 09:48:30 »
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  • :hypecrite: X-(( ;-((

    thanks for reply

    i forgot the paper i wrote voltages

    will post later
     :rolleyes_anim: :shocking:
    good holidays
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    Can you tell me if my PSU is sufficient plz
    « Reply #25 on: 12-January-04, 17:16:20 »

    This is what I got on the sticker:

    Switching power Supply
    Model: LC-B350ATX

    +3.3v - 28A
    +5v - 35A
    +12v - 16A

    +5VSB
    -5v - 0.3A
    -12v - 0.8A


    My PC just shuts down about an hour after switching on.
    Sometimes its even less.

    I thought it was an overheating thing but someone said it may be a PSU problem.

    I read that article on powersupplies and it got me thinking.

    I hope you can help.
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #26 on: 12-January-04, 17:42:52 »
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  • hard to say as what you have amp for amp is the exact numbers ive allways said each rail as a minimum should be
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    « Reply #27 on: 13-January-04, 07:09:25 »

    So wots that mean?

    What would you say i shud do now? :undecided:
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    « Reply #28 on: 13-January-04, 07:15:36 »
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  • well you dont give temps and i cannot read minds

    it may be it cannot actually poke out what they say

    it might be irq related has vga its own irq

    bad memmory

     Memtest86

    lots of things

    if you had said 3.3 v 14a i would say chuck the psu

    but as it is it just meets the minimum specs we have been saying

    note the word just though
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    « Reply #29 on: 15-January-04, 17:37:47 »
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  • hello, there

    I retired read all review on websites about power supply and support forum, I did little understood about watts, volts, amps.
    And I found website on [ http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply ] for power supply wattages calculator, but I don't understand that, why I choose PSU high?

    I don't know choose Antec truepower 430 , 480 , 550 Watts? How much PSU on my system? If I choose 550 or 430 Watts, so is this problem or not?

    My system had:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS
    P4 3.0GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB
    2 x 256MB DDR400 PC3200
    MSI Geforce FX 5600-VTDR 128MB
    WD 80GB and 120 GB IDE HDD
    LG 16x DVD-ROM
    Lite-on 52x32X52 CD-RW
    US Robotic 56K v.92 PCI
    4x 80mm fans and Cold Cathode Tube Light
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Sound Blaster card

    Please help with send me for problem solve..thanks
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    Antec Truepower 430 Watts:
    PSU:5V~36A;3.3V~28A;12V~20A@410W
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    « Reply #30 on: 15-January-04, 17:45:34 »
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  • 430 would work 550 will last may be an upgrade further as i dont see power needs getting smaller just bigger
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    « Reply #31 on: 16-January-04, 14:55:07 »

    My antec True380 PSU says:

    +5V       35A
    -5V        0.5A
     +12V    18A
     -12V     1.0A
    +3.3V    28.0A
    +5V SB  2.0A

    So how do I calculate the real power of my PSU.

    Should I do:

    5*35 + 5*0.5+ 12*18 +12*0.1 + 3.3*28 + 5 * 2 = 496.02 W

    Is it correct?
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    « Reply #32 on: 16-January-04, 15:13:51 »
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  • sort of but the psu has an overall max amps for the 3 rails it will never go over

    and thats a lot less

    Model: True380/True380S
     
      FEATURES
     
    Maximum Power
     380 Watts
     
    Switches
     ATX Logic on-off additional power rocker switch (115/230 Volt selector switch)
     
    Special Connectors
     AUX Power
    ATX12V
    3-pin Fan Sensor
    Fan Only
     
    Transient Response
     +5V,+12V outputs return to within 5% in less than 1ms for 20% load change.
     
    P. G. Signal
     100-500ms
     
    Over Voltage Protection
    recycle AC to reset
     +5V trip point < +6.5V
    +3.3V trip point < +4.1V
    +12V trip point < +14.4V
     
    Leakage Current
     < 3.5mA @ 240VAC
     
     
    DIMENSIONS
     
    Unit Size
     5.9"(L) x 5.5"(W) x 3.4"(H)
    15cm(L) x 14 cm(W) x 8.6 cm(H)
     
    Net Weight
     5lbs.
    2.3kg
     
    INPUT  
    Input Voltage
     115 VAC / 230VAC
     
    Input Frequency Range
     47Hz to 63Hz
     
    Input Surge Current
     < 60A @ 115VAC
     
    Input Current
     8.0A for 115VAC
    5.0A for 230VAC
     
    Hold-up Time
     > 17ms at Full Load
     
    Efficiency
     > 68%
     
    EMI/RFI
     FCC Class B
    CISPR22 Class
     
     
    OUTPUT
     
     
     
    +5V  
    -5V  
    +12V  
    -12V  
    +3.3V  +5V
    SB
     
    Max. Load
     
    35A*  
    0.5A  
    18A  
    1.0A  
    28.0A*  
    2.0A  
    Min. Load
     
    0A  
    0A  
    0.8A  
    0A  
    0A  
    0A  
    Load Reg.
     
    ±3%  
    ±5%  
    ±3%  
    ±5%  
    ±3%  
    ±5%  
    Ripple V(p-p)
     
    50mV  
    50mV  
    120mV  
    120mV  
    50mV  
    50mV  
    * +5V, +3.3V & +12V maximum output 360 Watts max.
     
     
    ENVIRONMENTAL  
    Operating Temp.
     10 to 50ºC
     
    Operating Alt.
     Sea Level 10,000 ft.
     
    Non-Operating Vibration
     Operating: 10-300 Hz, 0.5G, 3 axes, 1 hr. ea. axis
    Non-operating: 10-300 Hz, 2.0G, 3 axes, 1 hr. ea. axis
     
    MTBF
     80,000 hrs. @ 25ºC
     
    Approvals
     UL, TUV, CB, VDE, FCC CLASS B, DEMKO, NEMKO, SEMKO, FIMCO
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    Kingfisher

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    « Reply #33 on: 16-January-04, 15:23:19 »

    Wonkanoby, you said "sort of but the psu has an overall max amps for the 3 rails it will never go over and thats a lot less".

    What does it mean by an overall max amps for the 3 rails? When you say "rails", what are you referring to?

    Also, so what is the really power of my PSI then?  :confused2:

    (Sorry for my ignorance to raise these questions?)
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #34 on: 16-January-04, 15:33:57 »
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  • the limit is as in the above in red highlight



    +5V, +3.3V & +12V maximum output 360 Watts max

    this is controlled by the gizmos in side the box

    to that gets added the other 20 watts of power that the sundry minor voltages give

    so as they say its a 380 watts psu

    each rail if you look on its label can give a max amp

    in the case of the antec one gives juice at 3.3v one at 5v and one at 12v

    most normal psu have two basic rails 5v and 12v

    the 3.3v is then made from its 5 v out put

    so they are tied together

    the more 5v you take the less 3.3v you can have

    there are loads of threads here on this
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    Kingfisher

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    « Reply #35 on: 16-January-04, 15:51:51 »

    Many thanks, Wonkanoby  :biggthumbsup:
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    johnanna

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    power supply problem
    « Reply #36 on: 17-January-04, 15:55:49 »
  • Best Answer

  • OK, I will get 430 Watts, so now I have more thing question are number 1 and 2:

    #1 my short systerm had:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS
    P4 3.0GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB
    2 x 256MB DDR400 PC3200
    MSI Geforce FX 5600-VTDR 128MB 8X
    WD 80GB
    LG 16x DVD-ROM
    US Robotic 56K v.92 PCI
    2x 80mm fans
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Can I get antec true 550 watts? is this work OK?



    #2 my full system had:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS
    P4 3.2GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB
    4 x 256MB DDR400 PC3200 (1GB memory)
    MSI Geforce FX 5600-VTDR 128MB 8X
    WD 80GB and 120GB IDE HDD
    LG 16x DVD-ROM
    Lite-on 52x32X52 CD-RW
    US Robotic 56K v.92 PCI
    5x 80mm fans and 1 Cold Cathode Tube Light
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Sound Blaster card
    Can I get antec true 430 watts? is this work OK?


    why i choose different between of power supply watts? I checked the label for the exact combined power 3.3V+5V and range amps, but which one best range amps of antec truepower? :noidea:

    I don't want to damage or crash or fire up my motherboard, and etc. :shocking:

    Please help with send me for problem solve..thanks :-))
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    :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:My :-D) system has: :agree:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS BIOS v1.9 (not more update!) :shy:
    P4 3GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB:230Mhz@3.40GHZ 8-))
    2 x 512MB (1 GB) DDR500 PC4000 CL=3-4-4-8-1 ~ @2.7V
    ATI Radeon 9600XT 128MB v4.11 @499MHZ normal (no OC') :tongue:
    WD 250 GB IDE HDD and S-ATA 80 GB
    Artec 16x DVD-ROM
    Lite-on 52x32X52 CD-RW
    4x 80mm fans and Cold Cathode Tube Light
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Antec Truepower 430 Watts:
    PSU:5V~36A;3.3V~28A;12V~20A@410W
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS card-SPK 7.1 Digital

    Ex Forum User 3

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    « Reply #37 on: 17-January-04, 16:19:15 »
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  • Go for the Enermax 465, it has more then enough amps :biggthumbsup:
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    Rick G

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    « Reply #38 on: 22-January-04, 14:59:16 »

    I found a good article on psu's interpretation and explanations, calculations etc. http://www.short-media.com/article.php?130.0
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    johnanna

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    « Reply #39 on: 26-January-04, 19:43:05 »
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  • hello, there

    I checked my motherboard box on back say PowerPro (more power-saving):
       - save power consumption up to 65%
       - Assures Motherboard stability
       - Empower O.C Capabillity

    what is mean on them?  :confused2:

    thanks

    -------------------------------------------------
    My system had:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS
    P4 3.0GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB
    2 x 256MB DDR400 PC3200
    MSI Geforce FX 5600-VTDR 128MB
    WD 80GB
    LG 16x DVD-ROM
    Lite-on 52x32x52x CD-RW
    Floppy drive
    US Robotic 56K v.92 PCI
    4x 80mm fans and Cold Cathode Tube Light
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Sound Blaster card
    Antec TruePower 430W
    Logged
    :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:My :-D) system has: :agree:
    MSI 865PE Neo2-LS BIOS v1.9 (not more update!) :shy:
    P4 3GHz + HT + 800MHz FSB:230Mhz@3.40GHZ 8-))
    2 x 512MB (1 GB) DDR500 PC4000 CL=3-4-4-8-1 ~ @2.7V
    ATI Radeon 9600XT 128MB v4.11 @499MHZ normal (no OC') :tongue:
    WD 250 GB IDE HDD and S-ATA 80 GB
    Artec 16x DVD-ROM
    Lite-on 52x32X52 CD-RW
    4x 80mm fans and Cold Cathode Tube Light
    Antec PLUSView1000AMG Case (no power supply)
    Antec Truepower 430 Watts:
    PSU:5V~36A;3.3V~28A;12V~20A@410W
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS card-SPK 7.1 Digital

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    « Reply #40 on: 27-January-04, 06:56:47 »
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  • Quote
    Originally posted by Rick G
    I found a good article on psu's interpretation and explanations, calculations etc. http://www.short-media.com/article.php?130.0

    Hi,

    Nicely written, but that's all I can say for it.
    It's mostly useless.

    Modern CPU's are powered on 12V by MSI motherboards (first error)
    ATI 9700Pro is powered by 3.3V (for 2D) and 12V for 3D (second error)

    He better goes to school for himself, as the explenation of powerusage from a system is far from the way it goes.
    If you would try to power an XP-3200 or Opteron with his PSU recommendations, you wind up with an unstable/crashing system :lol_anim:

    Overall score of the article :biggthumbsdown: :biggthumbsdown: :lol_anim:
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    padders

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    « Reply #41 on: 02-May-04, 12:49:27 »

    I seem to have the same problem as someone in this thread, I have the power supply that came with a sonata case and the video card gives me a low voltage error when I turn the computer on. Not sure what to do here, it suggests that the AGP power might not be plugged in, but it definitely is.

    How do i determine what the error is, if it is getting any power at all or just not enough?

    Will disconnecting everything else in the case fix it?

    What information should i give you?
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    Ex Forum User 3

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    « Reply #42 on: 02-May-04, 13:18:40 »
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  • You better post in the right mobo forum, there are people that can help you with your problem.....
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    nsarpolis

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    « Reply #43 on: 03-May-04, 18:36:57 »

    Well, right now, I am using a 250w Dell power supply with these specs...

    +12/16A
    +5/22A
    +3.3/18A

    I ditched my turbolink 350w psu for this, and that only had 12A on +12.  my father had this in his dimension 4600, w/2.4 p4, sapphire radeon 9800pro, 512 pc2700 ddr, 80gb 7200rpm hitatchi, dvd-rw, cd-rw.  865pe chipset, 2 case fans -- 1x 120mm, 1x pci exhaust fan.  he had 0 problems with it, but is thinking about getting the nv. 6800 ultra, so he got a antec true-power 430w psu.  my specs are below.  i bought a soyo kt600 dragon plus v1.0.  i hope it works with this psu.  help!!!!

    (please answer all of the questions above :angryfire:)
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    phoney

    • Guest
    Help Please
    « Reply #44 on: 27-August-04, 13:42:32 »

    Ok my last motherboard when bang so i got a new one.

    The problem being the system powers on for 10-20 seconds and then power cuts out.

    Can someone please help explain this.

    I reckon it is a powersupply fault though i have tried 2 different supplies and they both do the same thing.

    The supplies are both roughly 350W.

    MaxLoad 340W
    +5 30A
    +12 15A
    +3.3 28A
    -5 0.5A
    -12 1A
    +5VSB 2A
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    Ex Forum User 3

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    « Reply #45 on: 27-August-04, 13:45:18 »
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  • Hi,

    You might want to use a PSU that has a bit more amps on the 12V line.
    Also, check your CPU cooler, if it's not mounted the right way, the system will shutdown as well due to overheating of the CPU.
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    Toenne

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    « Reply #46 on: 27-August-04, 16:09:30 »
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  • @phoney
    You've posted same question in the via section already. Please avoid double posts. :nono:
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    roqufort

    • Guest
    problems, help please
    « Reply #47 on: 16-September-04, 20:24:05 »

    i think my problems are happening because my power supply is not enough. i have no idea about watts , volts, or whatever, but my computer problems have to be the PSU. everything else has been tested and is fine....

    my system
    amd sempron 2200+bare
    cp5-8J71F areo fan
    ECS K7VTA3 v.8
    2 - ddr 256mb 2100 333mhz
    maxtor 120 gig hd
    maxtor 30 gig hd
    micro advantage dvd-+rw 4x
    generic dvd reader
    diamond stealth s60 radeon 7000
    creative live sound card.
    3.5 floppy

    PSU 300 watt
    3.3v - 22a / 5v - 30a / 12v - 14a

    please let me know if i need a different PSU. i have no idea of the brand.

    thanks, Carrie/Roqufort
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    Rogue_Wulff

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    « Reply #48 on: 17-September-04, 00:30:08 »

    Quote
    2 - ddr 256mb 2100 333mhz
    :confused2: PC2100 is not 333mhz, it is 266mhz. This could cause the issues you are having.
    Quote
    PSU 300 watt
    3.3v - 22a / 5v - 30a / 12v - 14a
    Rather light on the 12V, but that board *may* not draw heavily from that rail.
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    Wonkanoby

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    « Reply #49 on: 17-September-04, 02:02:44 »
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  • a reasonable indicator is if they put the 12v 4 pin feed chances are the cpu is feed of 12v ,if its not there it is not

    http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/products/index.html?action=c2hvd19wcm9kdWN0X292ZXJ2aWV3&product_uid=52747&_LOC=UK

    best i can see as its a small picture it does not have the extra 12v feed

    you need to be looking for a high combined watts 3.3 and 5 v

    200 would be nice

    but many cheap 300 watters only manage 165 watts
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